Best bang for my buck?

eppyhonda · Post by **eppyhonda** » September 17th, 2005, 3:58 pm

93 V-6 GS, what's the best direction to go to get better perfromance ouuta this car?

mxmaz · Post by **mxmaz** » September 17th, 2005, 4:08 pm

Swap in a 2.5 klze. It is bolt-on has 200hp 165tq. and all you need besides the engine is a kl31 or kl36 ecu.

jschrauwen · Post by **jschrauwen** » September 17th, 2005, 4:09 pm

How mechanically inclined are you?
DIY or a mechanic's task?
How deep are your pockets?
Have you used the search function for this subject yet?
BTW, welcome to MX-3.com

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » September 18th, 2005, 1:13 pm

for the ze swap you need a little over 1000 dllrs. EVEN if you get another engine..klde...kf...anything. You must expect to at least spend 900 dllrs doing the work yourself. You cant really work much on the k8 unless you use a small shot of nitrous..then again with that money you are better off getting a ze and TRUST me..once you feel that power of that klze... theres nothing that compares to it (as far as other mods) Make sure you get the correct manifold and ecu. You can still run it like that but for best results use the correct ones..

Nd4SpdSe · Post by **Nd4SpdSe** » September 18th, 2005, 1:25 pm

Upgrade the engine to a KLDE or a KLZE is your best bet and best bang for your buck.

KLDE: Domestic 2.5L V6, putting out 165hp, found out of these cars:
Mazda 626 : 1993-2002
Mazda MX6 : 1993-1997
Mazda Millenia : 1993-2002
Ford Probe : 1993-1997

KLZE: High-output version of the 2.5L found overseats in Japan and such, outputs 198hp

This is what you would need to do for the swap:
Absolute minimum: Just the engine
Minimum: 2.5L ECU and VAF (otherwise the car will run rich, loose fuel economy and not run as efficient, ie, power)
Recommended mininum: 2.5L ECU & VAF and upgraded clutch (stock clutch *may* hold up, but it's not designed for 165hp, I know it clips on a ZE, but either way it still works)
Highly Recommended: 2.5L ECU & VAF and Upgraded Clutch. Replaced the waterpump and all the belts while you in there.

Juans_93_MX3 · Post by **Juans_93_MX3** » September 18th, 2005, 1:25 pm

Not to hijack this thread but I got a question
For $1400 for a KLZE, what should you get other then the Engine? ECU? VAF? Distributer? Anything else?

Nd4SpdSe · Post by **Nd4SpdSe** » September 18th, 2005, 1:32 pm

Juans_93_MX3 wrote:Not to hijack this thread but I got a question
For $1400 for a KLZE, what should you get other then the Engine? ECU? VAF? Distributer? Anything else?

IF you get a KLZE ECU, you'll use your stock JE50 VAF. You can use the K8 disty, I'm using mine acutally cause the one on my ZE was dead. Typically when you buy an engine, you usually get only whatever is directly attached to the engine itself, sometimes you *may* get the alternator and/or tranny, but that's not typical.

Reaver19 · Post by **Reaver19** » September 20th, 2005, 1:20 pm

Nd4SpdSe wrote:Upgrade the engine to a KLDE or a KLZE is your best bet and best bang for your buck.

KLDE: Domestic 2.5L V6, putting out 165hp, found out of these cars:
Mazda 626 : 1993-2002
Mazda MX6 : 1993-1997
Mazda Millenia : 1993-2002
Ford Probe : 1993-1997

KLZE: High-output version of the 2.5L found overseats in Japan and such, outputs 198hp

This is what you would need to do for the swap:
Absolute minimum: Just the engine
Minimum: 2.5L ECU and VAF (otherwise the car will run rich, loose fuel economy and not run as efficient, ie, power)
Recommended mininum: 2.5L ECU & VAF and upgraded clutch (stock clutch *may* hold up, but it's not designed for 165hp, I know it clips on a ZE, but either way it still works)
Highly Recommended: 2.5L ECU & VAF and Upgraded Clutch. Replaced the waterpump and all the belts while you in there.

Nice post, extremely helpful!