Parking MX for 1yr in non-heated garage (How should i prep?)
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Parking MX for 1yr in non-heated garage (How should i prep?)
I've got to park my MX in a non-heated garage for just over 1yr. It won't be drivin at all during this time. What should i do to the car before i park her for the year?
- fry_81
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change your oil, add a fuel stabilizer, dont leave your e-brake on wash, wax and vacum out your car before you store it
1994 5spd GS Parts Car For Sale 800obo. e-mail for details. fry_81@hotmail.com
- jschrauwen
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I believe there's a spray protectant for engine bays for just such a purpose. Perhaps ask owners of vintage cars what storing practices they use. Spray protectant on metal surfaces to protect from rust, a spray for the engine bay and other parts to protect the rubber parts. Gas tank filled to the max with a fuel stabilizer. A clean interior with an air freshener left in would be a good idea. Up on blocks or jack stands for the suspension. I would also spray a little oil into each cylinder just to leave a little coating on top of the pistons and would do that again when it's time to take it out of storage but with the plugs out of course. A good car cover would be good. I'd also place sheets of old boxes or cardboard anchored down underneath the whole car to absorb the possible accumulation of moisture that usually occurs in a non-heated storage facility because of the fluctuating temps that it may be exposed to. Can't think of anything else, but will edit if needed.
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2
90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
- slimsmedley
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remove the windscreen washer rubbers and grease the sunroof runners
1994 Eunos 30x Sports
blaze red, Jap KL-DE 2.5 V6 conversion, KL28 ecu, Auto to Manual gearbox conversion, lightened flywheel, Top Gun leads, aftermarket radiator, Elf engine oil and filters, 2 1/4" cat-back mandrel bent exhaust with carbon fibre/stainless steel muffler and 4" tip, Pioneer sound system, 17" SSW rims, 101.3 wheel k/watts @ 6500rpm
blaze red, Jap KL-DE 2.5 V6 conversion, KL28 ecu, Auto to Manual gearbox conversion, lightened flywheel, Top Gun leads, aftermarket radiator, Elf engine oil and filters, 2 1/4" cat-back mandrel bent exhaust with carbon fibre/stainless steel muffler and 4" tip, Pioneer sound system, 17" SSW rims, 101.3 wheel k/watts @ 6500rpm
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- mitmaks
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people believed so for years but that has been proven to be wrongRick Johnson wrote:I'd say most important thing is get someone to start it every few weeks if possible.
Take out spark plugs and spray some lubricant in there.
Magnum s/s lines, strut bars, carbon fiber bezel, indiglow gauge, Sony Xplod, inverted c/f hood, SRD lower tie bar '93 GS SE '95 Cobra SVT #2722 '68 Charger R/T 440
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- mitmaks
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very fast? hmm i would say quick ya...fast, nope, very fast-definitely not!V8KOMX3 wrote:SRT-4 fast car but not very good in autocross, but non the less very fast car.
Magnum s/s lines, strut bars, carbon fiber bezel, indiglow gauge, Sony Xplod, inverted c/f hood, SRD lower tie bar '93 GS SE '95 Cobra SVT #2722 '68 Charger R/T 440
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- mitmaks
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very fast for the price? doubdtful as i can get 11 sec car for 15k, that WOULDNT lose value every year but GAIN it
Magnum s/s lines, strut bars, carbon fiber bezel, indiglow gauge, Sony Xplod, inverted c/f hood, SRD lower tie bar '93 GS SE '95 Cobra SVT #2722 '68 Charger R/T 440
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