Fitting Indiglo Gauges & Bezel
Fitting Indiglo Gauges & Bezel
As the subject heading say's....Im fitting tIndiglo Gauges and a Bezel, anyone got any tips best practice on fitting etc?
fitting bezel's nothing... pop out old one, put in new one.... simple as that
the dials are a little bit tricky though... many people have snapped their fuel gauge needle because of this mod (including me
, lucky for me i have a parts car 
)... the reason the fuel needle snaps so much is that it's a smaller gauge pin (meaning the metal pin has less girth) if you don't know what i'm talking about, wait til u take it apart and look for the silver pin that the white plastic needle's attached to--and that's the pin that's skinny in relation to the pin for the tach, spedometer, etc...
so what u need to do is this... in the link below i've put on cardomain a pic of what screws u NEED to undo to save MEGA time, hassle, and avoid all nerve racking of trying to prevent the fuel needle from snapping... in the pic, you'll see two groups of 3 bronze screws close together in a small triangle... well by unscrewing the right triangle (each of the 3 bronze screws to the right on the pic) it will completely undo the fuel needle... this makes it very easy to 'slip' on the gauge faces... other than that it's a piece of cake... the other ones aren't tricky at all... but still, USE CAUTION... the other pins can still snap! oh by the way, i thought it was implied, but these 3 bronze screws r on the back of the gauge cluster--don't mean to insult your intelligence in case u already did know!
oh yea, for wiring it, of course one wire goes to ground, so wire it to a bare metal spot, and the positive wire has to be connected to a wire that is on whenever the front amber lights are activated... this is where a voltmeter comes in handy-to figure out which circuits AREN'T working when the front amber lights AREN'T activated, and ARE working only when the front amber lights ARE working--this is the type of circuit u want to user for you positive connection... i actually ended up making my connection at the fuse box to the tail lights circuit (since these are always synchronized w/ the front amber's, meaning that if the front amber's are on, then so r the tails, and vice-versa)
hope some of this helps buddy, and good luck!!!!
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/807185/2
P.S. i was kinda in a rush to write all of this, so i wasn't using clear grammar or speech sometimes i'm sure, but i was thinking of making up a good, exhaustive write-up on how to properly hook these things up... would take some work though, and i don't even know if there is an interest for this... so if there is any interest i'd be willing to do so w/ lots of pics... whenever i get the time that is.... let me know if u think this would be helpful to people, or if it's all sort of self-explanatory and a waste of my time... i would make it from start to finish---from how to properly take apart the dash pieces, to properly fitting the gauges, and where and how to properly wire it all... let me know please...
the dials are a little bit tricky though... many people have snapped their fuel gauge needle because of this mod (including me
, lucky for me i have a parts car )... the reason the fuel needle snaps so much is that it's a smaller gauge pin (meaning the metal pin has less girth) if you don't know what i'm talking about, wait til u take it apart and look for the silver pin that the white plastic needle's attached to--and that's the pin that's skinny in relation to the pin for the tach, spedometer, etc...so what u need to do is this... in the link below i've put on cardomain a pic of what screws u NEED to undo to save MEGA time, hassle, and avoid all nerve racking of trying to prevent the fuel needle from snapping... in the pic, you'll see two groups of 3 bronze screws close together in a small triangle... well by unscrewing the right triangle (each of the 3 bronze screws to the right on the pic) it will completely undo the fuel needle... this makes it very easy to 'slip' on the gauge faces... other than that it's a piece of cake... the other ones aren't tricky at all... but still, USE CAUTION... the other pins can still snap! oh by the way, i thought it was implied, but these 3 bronze screws r on the back of the gauge cluster--don't mean to insult your intelligence in case u already did know!
oh yea, for wiring it, of course one wire goes to ground, so wire it to a bare metal spot, and the positive wire has to be connected to a wire that is on whenever the front amber lights are activated... this is where a voltmeter comes in handy-to figure out which circuits AREN'T working when the front amber lights AREN'T activated, and ARE working only when the front amber lights ARE working--this is the type of circuit u want to user for you positive connection... i actually ended up making my connection at the fuse box to the tail lights circuit (since these are always synchronized w/ the front amber's, meaning that if the front amber's are on, then so r the tails, and vice-versa)
hope some of this helps buddy, and good luck!!!!
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/807185/2
P.S. i was kinda in a rush to write all of this, so i wasn't using clear grammar or speech sometimes i'm sure, but i was thinking of making up a good, exhaustive write-up on how to properly hook these things up... would take some work though, and i don't even know if there is an interest for this... so if there is any interest i'd be willing to do so w/ lots of pics... whenever i get the time that is.... let me know if u think this would be helpful to people, or if it's all sort of self-explanatory and a waste of my time... i would make it from start to finish---from how to properly take apart the dash pieces, to properly fitting the gauges, and where and how to properly wire it all... let me know please...
1992 GS/RS Mutant Automatic