Annoying Sticky Gas Pedal

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Cyn
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Annoying Sticky Gas Pedal

Post by Cyn »

Lately, my gas pedal has been sticking alot especially after idling at a red light. I drive standard so it's kinda annoying having to keep the clutch pressed in order to stomp on the gas pedal to unstick it before being able to take off from a stop. Does anyone know if this is just a minor problem that can be fixed easily??

Thanks guys!
Cyn
'99 ECLIPSE SPYDER GS-T
'95 Talon TSI ~ FOR SALE
'95 MX3 RS - SOLD
'93 MX3 GS - SOLD
'92 MX3 GS - SOLD
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kiwi_MX3
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Post by kiwi_MX3 »

Check the return spring on the throttle body.
The tension should be fairly firm. and the throttle blade
should snap closed when released from full open.

check the cabel is not being "crimped" by anything.

Also get someone to hold the throttle fully open and check
the accerator cabel at the pedal end for freeness if sticking
replace is the best option or lube using vaseoline..

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Matt :welder:
Kiwi - Native Bird Of New Zealand, semi-nocturnal, secretive bird
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jschrauwen
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Post by jschrauwen »

Kiwi - ditto
Ya, if not getting any CEL codes, than the easiest first step is what Kiwi suggested. I sometimes prefer to use white (grey) lithium spray (lube) grease with the little straw tube attachment for getting into those hard to reach places. It adhere's well and doesn't turn stiff and gunky when I use it on all the spring loaded catch's, hood, hatch, doors, door locks, TPS spring etc. Would not recommend WD40 as lube (only as a cleaner). Must be all that Oshawa slush getting in there........ LOL.....good luck.
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2
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90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
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Tunes67
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Post by Tunes67 »

WD40 as a lubricant isnt all that great.. its water based and will eventually promote rust. Using silicone based lubricants is definately recommended for this application or any other application.

Tunes67
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jschrauwen
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Post by jschrauwen »

Tunes67 wrote:WD40 as a lubricant isnt all that great.. its water based and will eventually promote rust. Using silicone based lubricants is definately recommended for this application or any other application.Tunes67
Wouldn't silicone based lubricants be more suseptable to extreme weather conditions vs a lithium type? The white grease I use is specifically for extreme weather (+ rust preventitive lube) for "hinges, latches and springs etc".
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2
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90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
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Tunes67
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Post by Tunes67 »

Lithium based greases are great.. I havent tried any of the spray types.. for spray lubricant situations I use Duralube spray.. stuff works excellent and its silicone based. Been using it for just about everything for the past 6 or 7 years since I discovered it.. havent noticed it being susceptible to weather.. But the only thing I can think of off the top of my head that is exposed to weather that I have used it on is door locks and door hinges (both on my cars and house/garage type stuff) pretty long lasting as well.. Seems to work well as a penetrant for rusted bolts & nuts as well. I wasnt really knocking the lithium based stuff.. I just avoid the water based stuff like WD40.

Tunes67
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Cyn
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Post by Cyn »

Thanks guys! I'll check it out on a warmer day......I really wish I didn't have to put my poor MX3 through the harsh winters but that's the life of a university student....no freakin $$$$ :(
'99 ECLIPSE SPYDER GS-T
'95 Talon TSI ~ FOR SALE
'95 MX3 RS - SOLD
'93 MX3 GS - SOLD
'92 MX3 GS - SOLD
hgallegos915
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Post by hgallegos915 »

hey mine is starting to do that..and its not even cold o.0 happened
-hec

MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
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