Alright, here goes nothing. When I first bought my car, I removed both actuators because the passanger one was frozen, and I figured I wouln't need the driver side (my car doesnet have power locks, it just autolocks when you turn the ignition on...). Now, I plan to put power windows and locks in my car, and I need the actuators to do that. I got a new passanger side one, and have yet to install it. However, I decided to reuse the drivers side after testing it on a 9V battery (works fine with the batt.). However, when I connect the actuator to the loose wires, then turn the ignition on, nothing happens? . I don't believe I have any power going to the damn thing because my current detector doesnt pick up anything... So any help would be greatly appriciated. Oh yes, I did check, and switch the fuse with the spare that came with the car, so that shouldn't be the problem.
Stock 1995 RS - Creek Blue
Car Meanins:
Honda: Hang On, Not Done Accelerating
FORD: Frequently Overhauled, Rarely Driven
Mazda: Must Always Zoom Down Asphalt
If the car had door-lock actuators in the car when you bought it,then you DID have power locks...
And the part where your doors lock when turning the ignition on,is a feature found on caralarms (you could turn it of,depending of the make)
Other that that,first check your actuators.
Then check that theres power going to the plugs where the actuators connect too,and then take it from there
1992 MX-3 V6 Z1 Arbet VIII 17 x 8" -35mm Proracing Springs on KYB Sports, Corksport Strutbars, Brembo Cross Drilled & Slotted, Goodridge SS Brakelines, Corksport SS Clutchline, Mazdaspeed Enginemounts & Front arm bushings, All SRD bushings in shifterlinkage and cross member, Pacesetter Shortshifter, KN Conefilter, Custom SS Exhaust, Stereo Oldschool Goodies Denon & Phoenix Gold, Boston Pro & Cerwin Vega and lots of other small goodies
Ok, I don't know about what is with the power door locks, all I know is I have actuators with wires to power them, but no wiring for P/D, or switches on my door panel. That is about it...
Now I have two questions, is this stupid thing stock equipment? And some time in my onership the damn thing went out (not sure when), could this be the problem?? And if that is, where is the first place you guys would look, because I'm a big idiot about security systems.
Stock 1995 RS - Creek Blue
Car Meanins:
Honda: Hang On, Not Done Accelerating
FORD: Frequently Overhauled, Rarely Driven
Mazda: Must Always Zoom Down Asphalt
im pretty sure thats not stock, and its simply an LED for the alarm system. if it went out, its no biggie, all you have to do is replace the led with a new one and wire the - and +.
http://boostedboogie.notanorg.org
- team slideways
92' mazda mx-3 (parting out), 03' bmw 325i, 03' bmw 530i (traded for 325), red FD3S (sold), 2005 cateyes carbon fiber bike
But isn't a little coincidental that not only does the LED go out, but the door actuators (which are part of the same system) stop working as well. Not only this, but I found a shock sensor tied to the steering colum with two LEDS there were also not working. Does anyone have an idea of where security systems connect for power source in most applications? I'm not sure if this was KE, or just a security system, hell I didn't know I had one till I started to put the pieces together. BTW, The company is MES if anyone else has a system from them. I'm calling them tomorrow to see if they can help me out, but I don't know if they can, because not only did I not get it pay for it, but I don't even know if they sell this kit anymore.
Stock 1995 RS - Creek Blue
Car Meanins:
Honda: Hang On, Not Done Accelerating
FORD: Frequently Overhauled, Rarely Driven
Mazda: Must Always Zoom Down Asphalt
Its most likely not the LED "unless it was abused"
They have an average lifetime of 20-50000 hours or so depending on the make...
But if you say that theres no light in the LED's on your shocksensor either,you most likely have a blown fuse or a bad connection in the ground/supply wires for your alarm...
Just follow the wires from your shocksensor to the actual alarm then follow wires to ground and supplyvoltage,check wires for bad connections and check the fuses...
At this point you will probertly have found the fault
1992 MX-3 V6 Z1 Arbet VIII 17 x 8" -35mm Proracing Springs on KYB Sports, Corksport Strutbars, Brembo Cross Drilled & Slotted, Goodridge SS Brakelines, Corksport SS Clutchline, Mazdaspeed Enginemounts & Front arm bushings, All SRD bushings in shifterlinkage and cross member, Pacesetter Shortshifter, KN Conefilter, Custom SS Exhaust, Stereo Oldschool Goodies Denon & Phoenix Gold, Boston Pro & Cerwin Vega and lots of other small goodies
yea now that i think of it, it definitely sounds like the fuse for your alarm went out.. i mean your door actuators are hooked to it (it should), the led is hooked to it, and if neither the door actuators or led are working, there's a blown fuse somewhere in the alarm system.
http://boostedboogie.notanorg.org
- team slideways
92' mazda mx-3 (parting out), 03' bmw 325i, 03' bmw 530i (traded for 325), red FD3S (sold), 2005 cateyes carbon fiber bike
Thats what I first thought, and still think. But I can't find the F***ing fuse. Would it be on the "brain" or in to the left of the pedals; because all the fuses are fine in that fuse box (first thing I checked)
Stock 1995 RS - Creek Blue
Car Meanins:
Honda: Hang On, Not Done Accelerating
FORD: Frequently Overhauled, Rarely Driven
Mazda: Must Always Zoom Down Asphalt
its an inline fuse that you'll find when you follow the 12v wires that provide power to the alarm.
http://boostedboogie.notanorg.org
- team slideways
92' mazda mx-3 (parting out), 03' bmw 325i, 03' bmw 530i (traded for 325), red FD3S (sold), 2005 cateyes carbon fiber bike
Sorry about the blur, but I figure if you guys knew if this could be the fuse, you would know anyhow. Just snapped this a second ago when you said inline fuse; partly because this doesnt look stock, considering it was lawys just hanging there. Maybe you all have it? Hopefully this is the fuse, and the problem...but then again, I'm an idiot.
Thanks for everything so far, later
Stock 1995 RS - Creek Blue
Car Meanins:
Honda: Hang On, Not Done Accelerating
FORD: Frequently Overhauled, Rarely Driven
Mazda: Must Always Zoom Down Asphalt
no thats probably one of the things that converts the power for the alarm or something... it MIGHT be the fuse though. its most likely a fuse holder with a small fuse clip inside (either blue or red or yellow or whatever color) that you can remove and replace.. it should look like the fuses inside your fusebox.
http://boostedboogie.notanorg.org
- team slideways
92' mazda mx-3 (parting out), 03' bmw 325i, 03' bmw 530i (traded for 325), red FD3S (sold), 2005 cateyes carbon fiber bike
Well thank you all for you help. Turns out that wasn't the fuse, but I did find it. Got pissed after school, so I ripped Mazda's fuse box out of my way to get to the "brain". Found a burned out fuse on a wire going to it. Put a new 15 amp in it, and vualla, the led's went on, and the door locks work. I love it when things works .
However, I do have another question. If you have a what seems to be a full alarm system, wouldn't there by a keyless entry systme included? Or are there companies that have system that have alaram and no K/E?
Once again, you guys rule
Stock 1995 RS - Creek Blue
Car Meanins:
Honda: Hang On, Not Done Accelerating
FORD: Frequently Overhauled, Rarely Driven
Mazda: Must Always Zoom Down Asphalt
I think the alarm in my '92 GS predates remote entry and remote starts and stuff. It has a toggle switch and pushbutton mounted in the driver's side kick panel, and those are the only controls to enable/disble it.
Frankly, I wish the car didn't have it (bone stock car that's paid for but has nothing special inside it), but it came with the car when I bought it and I'm pretty much stuck with it.
http://boostedboogie.notanorg.org
- team slideways
92' mazda mx-3 (parting out), 03' bmw 325i, 03' bmw 530i (traded for 325), red FD3S (sold), 2005 cateyes carbon fiber bike
Well first off,the thing you took pictures of was for sure not the fuse,just a regular relay
You should have followed my advice right from the start,had been alot quicker LOL
And to your second question...Do you have an doorlock actuator in your driversside door?
If not it wouldent have done much good to connect the alarm so that it only locked your passenger door
If you do have an actuator in your driversside door,then maybe the guy before you couldent find out how to connect it,or your alarm cant control it,if thats the fact you can get add ons that control your doorlocks when you arm your alarm/Or get a new alarm...
Im not sure if you have them in the Us allso?
But viper alarms really has a lot of options and work really good
1992 MX-3 V6 Z1 Arbet VIII 17 x 8" -35mm Proracing Springs on KYB Sports, Corksport Strutbars, Brembo Cross Drilled & Slotted, Goodridge SS Brakelines, Corksport SS Clutchline, Mazdaspeed Enginemounts & Front arm bushings, All SRD bushings in shifterlinkage and cross member, Pacesetter Shortshifter, KN Conefilter, Custom SS Exhaust, Stereo Oldschool Goodies Denon & Phoenix Gold, Boston Pro & Cerwin Vega and lots of other small goodies
. I don't believe I have any power going to the damn thing because my current detector doesnt pick up anything... So any help would be greatly appriciated. Oh yes, I did check, and switch the fuse with the spare that came with the car, so that shouldn't be the problem.
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