I called corksport today and talked to Ben about there 1.8 BPT ECU's that they sell for $270 I knew that I would be spending that much for th ecu but what I did not know is that the wiring harness for it would be $300
Thank you for your time.
Doug
PS what kind of down pipe are you BPTers using and if you have a custom one who made it for you.
Life passes you by so fast, keep up,drive a Mazda(ZOOM,ZOOM).
the stock ecu won't work. i tried about 3 different prototypes from 2 diff companies of a remapped factory ecu, and none of them worked. you might be able to throw in a pro lx ecu being that you have a sohc. hook up a piggy-back to that and run with it. but if you're going to spend that much on a stock ecu and wiring harness, save up and just get a stand-alone. <p>as far as d-pipes go, i have my muffler shop make one.
Fast imports only come on two wheels.
"MR." Ashley Fowler
'02 Yamaha Warrior (1700cc)
'94 MX-3 RS-t (BPT)~ sold cardomain pics
i'm using a haltech e6k. wiring the gtx ecu and harness isn't worth it IMO. it's a headache to do. if you're going to get that involved, again, get a stand-alone system.
Fast imports only come on two wheels.
"MR." Ashley Fowler
'02 Yamaha Warrior (1700cc)
'94 MX-3 RS-t (BPT)~ sold cardomain pics
i have just completed my bpt swap and am running the stock ecu from a 1.6 dohc (1994). it runs really lean on acceleration, but idles fine. corksport damaged the iac valve and i did not connect any of the prc solenoids or purge or vics (doesn't exist on this engine) or the egr (doesn't exist here either). so cel is lit. also, since the iac is broke closed loop is kinda jumpy, so until i get a new one the o2 sensor data line (not heaters) is also disconnected. i used a cartech rising rate fpr to solve the leanness prob. it ran fine until yesterday afternoon.... but that is another story altogether. and in another post.
also i have a full 3" exhaust from the turbo back that ends in an apexi N1 can. i welded it myself, i got the 3" braided flex pipe from rre.
the intake is 2.5" and is straight through (no intercooler - wich is bad if you are running lean) and i have a pretty purple greddy bov. which is NOT plumbed back into the intake like everyone says it has to be and i've not had any problems with the car dieing. however it is inefficent (according to corky bell) so i plan to change vent to intake before turbo after maf.
they will work to a certain extent.<p>"will allow the user to SLIGHTLY alter factory injector duty-cycle"<p>it all depends on how far out the factory mapping is to what you need. you might be able to tune it, but you might be stuck after that, meaning no turning up the boost.<p>what ike was saying might work out, but doesn't sound very reliable or effecient(as he said). getting it to where it runs good is one thing, but getting it to where you can SAFELY play with it is another. IMO, that is the main reason for swapping in the other motor.
Fast imports only come on two wheels.
"MR." Ashley Fowler
'02 Yamaha Warrior (1700cc)
'94 MX-3 RS-t (BPT)~ sold cardomain pics
your best bet to run your GTX properly is to get the GTX ecu and harness!!!<p>Do you know how difficult it is to pull a full ecu harness intact? Let alone importing it from japan to the states. $570 sounds about right for the ECU w/harness.<p>A super afc or greddy fuel computer isn't going to do much for you. you can run the GTX motor off your stock ECU at maybe 4-5psi and getting one of these fuel computers will allow you to run maybe 6-8psi, but if you have a GTX ecu you can run up to 12psi. Add a fuel comp and you might be able to run 15psi.<p>If you want to run more boost than that, get a standalone like a haltech.<p>a protege LX ecu would run up to 7psi on the stock motor, but i wouldn't recommend it.
The Emanage will work wonders, it is much more versatile than the S-AFC but again, you still need an ecu and it must be wired. There are already a few Greddy kitted miata guys running the Emanage and boosting 15psi easily. The nice thing with the Emanage is that you can adjust timing, boost (if you get the E01) and fuel. Fuel is only adjustable +/- 20% but that is based on the injectors, not the actual fuel map of the OEM ecu. Therefore you can take a set of 550cc injectors, tone them down 20% and run quite well without the need to upgrade as often. I my opinion, the Emanage is the best option for the majority of us but for true control, the TEC or Haltec are the best. The only problem I see with the Greddy is that authorized dealers are the only ones with the software (in most cases) to tune you car, a good way to make more money. This is the same for HKS and the EVC pro. Wiring in a complete standalone can be done in a day if you know what you are doing. There are so many base maps available for the miata that it surely can be adapted for each of our situations to aid in startup.
with the haltech ek6 with flying loom
do u some of your stock harness (just like connectors) and how much would an install cost without any tuning<p>cre8v mx3 how much did your complete kit cost and what was included in it?
I happen to have a gtx harness and ecu that I'm going to sell. I'm selling it for 500 and if things work out I'll throw in a rx7 maf for an extra 50. If anyone is interested drop me an e-mail.
PS the ecu is BP-26 J-spec not ausi-spec<p>if your on the way of my road trip to PA then I might just stop by to deliver it <p>[ June 22, 2003: Message edited by: RiceRocket666 ]</p>
Hey RiceRocket666:<p>
I'm interested in buying you gtx ecu and harness for $500. If you have a paypal account I can send you the money on monday cause on sunday my bank is closed and I need to tranfer the money to my checking account so I can send you the money. Yeah but like I said I will buy it from you ASAP.
My email is Jowga28@yahoo.com <p>Thank you for your time.<p>Doug
Life passes you by so fast, keep up,drive a Mazda(ZOOM,ZOOM).