Swap Help???

[zevirii]

Ok guys... A friend and I have started the process of removing the K8 getting it ready for the KLZE. We however ran into a slight snag.<P>In the online manual it says in order to remove the drive shafts, you have to remove the bolt holding the lower A-arm on. Then use a pry bar to get then off.. Now after that it just says placing a pry bar on the axle and prying it out of the tranny... My question is am I missing something here?<P>I mean it seems that you would have to take more apart like unbolt the strut or something? <P>What is the easiest way of removing the axles?<P>I also heard something about spider gears falling? What are these and how do I keep them from falling?<P>When lowering the lower A-arm to remove the axle do I have to remove the sway bar bushings mounts or just leave it bolted to the a-arm?<P>I know this is alot of questions at once but I can really use the help... worked on the car for 5 hours straight and the axles are holding us up.. KLZE gets here in 1 week and would like to get this engine out before it gets here.. Thanks guys

[ghandi1981]

where u getting ur engine from??? you should goto <A HREF="http://www.thepartsbin.com" TARGET=_blank>www.thepartsbin.com</A> or <A HREF="http://www.expressautoparts.com" TARGET=_blank>www.expressautoparts.com</A> now and order the replacement parts (timeing belt, ac/ps/wp belts, water pump and water pump pully, exaust gasket, valve cover gaskets, etc...prices are reasonable....order for a mx-6 v6 2.5l 1993-1997....<P>AJ

[pelado]

You just have to free the ball joint from the spindle/hub assembly.<P>There's one bolt on the spindle that retains the ball joint. You can't just loosen it, you have to remove it since the bolt fits into a groove on the ball joint. Use a pry bar to pry downward to free the lower A-arm from the spindle. Now the spindle and strut can move freely, enough to pull the driveshafts out anyway.<P>Some have stated they could pull the axles out without messing with the ball joints. I couldn't.<P>On the driver's side you have to use a pry bar to get the axle out. I know it's hard as hell but just keep trying, it'll eventually come out. The passenger side is easier, unbolt the intermediate shaft from the block and the whole thing should come out easily.<P>Stuff a shop rag into the trans when the axles are removed to keep the spider gears in place. If they fall out of place, the trans will have to come apart.

[zevirii]

Pelado,<P><BR>Thanks bro....

[chance]

go to autozone and rent a pickle fork. it'll make it a hell of a lot easier then trying to use a crowbar or someting. the proper tool always does if it's easily avalable.<BR>Good luck with your swap man.

[zevirii]

Well 4 more hours spent on it today and I got alot more done... I got the power steer pump off the block, got the lower-a arm off on each side removed the headers and cat. All thats left is pulling the axles, disconnecting the tranny linkage, and removing the engine mounts... woooohhoooooo... Almost there... I am going to have to order new engine mounts though due to the fact the other ones are falling apart...sucks... this swap has went from $3000 to $4000+ really quick hehe....(not just the swap but alot more stuff too)

[lazzyie]

no pickle fork!!!!!!!! use a front end kit you can get it from kragens for a $20 deposit

[zevirii]

Whats the easiest way of getting the axles out? Manual says to pry them out, but from what angle? On top through engine bay of from bottom of car.<P><BR>Also I am alittle confussed about the right side axle.. In the manual it says all this about a clip and stuff... Now I see the clip but where do I disconnect the axle at? Will I have to replace the Clip?<P>As Alwasy Thanks guys for the help :p

[zevirii]

Also when I get this engine out can I just sit it down or do I need a special stand or something?

[pelado]

Unbolt the intermediate shaft from the block and then pull out the right (passenger) axle. You won't have to mess with a clip on the passenger side.<P>You can't see the clip until you pull the axle out, it's the clip that's keeping the axle in the trans. The clip is just a ring with a gap in it that sits in a groove in the splined axle end.<P>Set it on something wood, 2x4s, anything. Wood gives a little, less likely to bend/break something.<p>[ October 21, 2002: Message edited by: pelado ]

[zevirii]

Ok I am running into parts problems now... hmmm<P> <A HREF="http://www.sunsengines.com" TARGET=_blank>www.sunsengines.com</A> has had 7 engines now all KLZE's but none of them have the curved neck intake manifold. Now I have read on this site that the intake manifold has to be curved and that if it is not it will run into the master cylinder. Also that if need be you can use the K8 intake manifold on the KLZE but lose a few HP by doing so. Is this all true and how much HP loss are we talking about?<P>Also I ordered Hot Shot headers. Will these headers have the 2 sensors in them or will I have to custom install that?

[zevirii]

Also will everything hookup to the K8 intake manifold no problems?

[pelado]

The swap will actually go easier if you use the K8 manifold since you will just be hooking the wiring harness back to the original parts on the IM.<P>You will lose some HP with the K8 manifold and TB, how much I don't know. I used a 97 Millenia intake and TB.<P>Hotshot headers have the O2 fittings but they don't come with the O2 sensors if that's what you mean.

[zevirii]

Thanks again Pelado.... <BR> <P><BR>One more thing though... Where should I bolt up the chain to lift the engine... I was looking at the manual and can't seem to find a spot. I know there are supposed to be a ring on one side to lift it from however it is not there... hmm I don't wanna damage something..

[zevirii]

Well I ordered the Mx-6 version of the KLZE. It will be here next thursday. Still need the info on where to chain the engine up at though...