oil leak

[Traveler]

I just purchased the parts I need to change my valve cover gaskets. I know that on a 6 cyl. that back one is going to be tough. Where can I find some better directions on doing this work. I have the manual but it's like reading another language. I really need to get this done over the weekend. I'm hoping that I haven't already damaged my plug wires. If so....where can I pick up some really good ones?

[pelado]

How could you damage the ..... never mind. Plug wires can be had from NOPI and Corksport, and there are other suppliers.<P>The rear valve cover is a big, big hassle. I don't see any way it can be removed without pulling the intake. I don't recommend this if you're a novice and you have problems with say...plug wires!! This could be a bad experience for you, let a shop do it. Watch and learn. If they won't let you watch and give you that line about insurance liability, take it elsewhere.

[pelado]

If you're determined to do it yourself the following is a step by step courtesy of halfriceboy on probetalk:<P>"for those of you who are scared to take off your intake manifold because it looks hard, well here is how to do it. use this as a checklist to make sure everything is reconnected. i will also tell how to put in a rear mount, phenos, race kit, rear VCG, and t.b. coolant bypass. <P>tools needed: 8mm socket, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 17mm, swivel, long extension, adjustable wrench (or a set of metric), jackstands (optional), jack, peice of wood. <P>parts recomended: mazdaspeed rear mount, rear VCG, phenos, race kit, sealant for IM, 2 bottles of powersteering fluid. <P>to remove intake manifold: <BR>-let engine cool <BR>-(optional), jack front of car up and put on jackstands <BR>-releive fuel pressure by removing relay under hood labeled "circuit relay". it's green. then try to start car. <BR>-remove: <BR>1. front air scoop 10mm <BR>2. VAF harness <BR>3. big vaccum hose on rear of intake elbow. disconnect from elbow <BR>4. FPR harness <BR>5. FPR vaccum hose <BR>6. vaccum hose from rear of airbox <BR>7. PCV hose <BR>8. vaccum hose to #6 runner <BR>9. airbox bolts 12mm <BR>10. airbox and filter <BR>11. intake elbow and VAF <BR>12. throttle cable. (open throttle fully then pull end of cable from the rocker thing, then remove the whole assembly from the IM by pinching the clips together and pulling it through.) <BR>13. hose from front V.C. to IM (forgot name) <BR>14. banjo bolt and washers 17mm. (don't lose the washers) <BR>15. the 2 fuel rail harnesses <BR>16. knock sensor harness (long and gray next to t.b.) <BR>17. tps harness <BR>18. VRIS solenoid harness 1 <BR>19. VRIS solenoid harness 2 <BR>20. harness next to them (forgot name) <BR>21. fuel line to FPR <BR>22. 2 rear bracket bolts. warning: these are a b----. they are 12mm just so you know. you can't see them. they connect the back of the IM to the back of the rear head. it works best to crawl on top of the engine and reach back there. one is on top and one is on bottom. they both point towards the front of the car. <BR>23. 2 harnesses from the bracket <BR>24. IAC harness on bottom of throttle body. <BR>25. 3 coolant lines on bottom of t.b. <BR>26. big vaccum hose under passenger side rear of IM <BR>27. little vaccum hose un passenger side rear of IM <BR>28. rear spark plug wires. <BR>29. front spark plug wire bracket screws. only the screws need to be taken out. the brackets themselves can stay clipped onto the wires. <BR>30. big vaccum hose from IM to brake cylinder <BR>31. manifold bolts and nuts <BR>32. manifold. (lift front first then pull up and out. it will not come all the way out because there are still 2 vaccum hoses holding it in. they are connected to the bracket. disconnect them so that the bracket will come out with the IM. the bracket should be dangling from the IM. cover the open holes in the heads with a rag or something.) <P>now, to do the rear engine mount: <BR>1. jack up engine by oil pan to releive stress on rear mount. note: place the peice of wood between the jack and oil pan. do not jack near drain plug. <BR>2. use a 17mm and remove the bolt that goes through the bushing. remove nut also. if the power steering line is in the way of the bolt, losen the line and set it aside. it's strong, use force to move it. <BR>3. remove the 3 bolts on top of the mount. use a swivel if necessary to get to the bolts. they will be very tight. <BR>4. the mount should just come out. look how crappy is is compared to the mazdaspeed one. <BR>5. put the new mount back in and tighten everything. put the bolts halfway in, then put the bushing bolt through. then tighten the 3 top bolts. <BR>6. put the powersteering line back on if it was removed. <BR>7. after the IM is back on, add powersteering fluid. <P>to put in a rear valve cover gasket: <BR>1. if you are still motivated to put it in then remove the 11 or 12 10mm bolts holding the VC on. take cover off. oil might drip from cover. <BR>2. take out the old gasket and put the new one in. <BR>3. put RTV sealant on all 90 degree angles around the mating surface. <BR>4. put the cover back on. <BR>5. if you have the zinc plated bolts from <BR>probesport.com then use them. but if not, put the old ones back on. <BR>6. tighten them to 72 inch pounds or until you think they are tight. <P>to install the race kit and phenos <BR>1. the race kit comes with longer stufs to go into the heads. use pliers to twist out the 4 old studs from the heads. <BR>2. this will make metal shavings. do not get them into the head ports. <BR>3. once all four are out, install the new larger ones. i used a pipe wrench to get the new ones in. be careful not to strip the threads. <BR>4. when installing phenos, put sealant around both sides of each port hole. the stock IM gaskets will not be used. <BR>5. use a vaccum to clean up all metal shavings from around the heads. <BR>6. when the intake manifold is back on, put the hardware from the race kit on in this order: insulator, insulator, washer, bolt. same thing with the studs.<P>to install the intake manifold and bypass the throttle body coolant lines: <BR>1. if you want to bypass them, remove one hose from the head. take the other hose end and put it on that tube. it should be a loop. the hose will come out of the head and then go directly back in. <BR>2. if you installed phenos, then the fuel line will not match up to the fuel rail. so the fuel line must be unbolted from the head to allow it to be raised up and connect with the fuel rail. <BR>3. put the intake manifold back on. be sure that the bracket goes back behind the engine. <BR>4. bolt the IM to the heads. if you installed a race kit, put the hardware on in this order: 2 insulators, washer, then the bolt/nut. (the bolts that come with the race kit are 13mm) <BR>5. put the bracket back on. only the top bolt needs to be put back in. <BR>6. connect all vaccum hoses and harnesses. <BR>7. finish reinstalling the rest of the things from the checklist, but in reverse order. <BR>8. lower car <BR>9. fill powersteering fluid. <BR>10. turn steering wheel left and right with car running. <BR>11. fill again <BR>12. repeat until the level doesn't drop anymore <P><BR>now you are done, you don't have as much wheel hop, your manifold and t.b. are cooler, and you don't have oil in your spark plug wells. <P>FYI-the only reason i jacked up the car and put it on jackstands is because it hurt my back to work on it when it was that low. good luck."

[georgechicken]

god bless... im doing valve cover gaskets on a Probe GT today, and you're scaring the piss out of me by reminding me how much of a job it is Ive pulled my mx3 manifold before, and that was no picnic