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Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: January 14th, 2012, 5:20 pm
by Tavman_1213
Which brand gasket set should I get for my BPT with out going OEM Mazda? I'm changing the head on it! I was thinking of going Fel-pro but not sure if the felpro head gasket can handle being boosted, since I will have to buy a set of the Protege LX.
Thanks

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: January 14th, 2012, 11:04 pm
by Ryan
Headgasket? Anything that is multi-layer-steel. MLS.

Its all the same. I don't see any reason for having a fancy one. Spend your money elsewhere, where it will actually do some work for you.

If you're looking for a kit, Topline makes decent stuff for us. Egay brand is sketchy in the rubber gaskets. Felpro is also good (although a bit overplayed)

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: January 15th, 2012, 3:54 am
by Tavman_1213
Thanks for your help Ryan!!

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: January 18th, 2012, 12:07 am
by RobMinhas
I have a question for you guys, I don't completely understand how the lock system works. Can someone explain to me the basics of the follow me lock system? I'm getting power locks installed and I'm considering only doing the drivers side because I mostly drive alone but I want to know how the follow me locks factor in. For example, if I were to unlock or lock my doors with the keyless entry, how would it work if the passenger side was locked? And how would it react if it was unlocked?

Thanks in advance guys.

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: January 18th, 2012, 7:43 pm
by Ryan
Follow me locks:

There is a little position sensor on the driver's side door lock. There are two possible positions, lock and unlock.

If it sees lock, it sends a lock pulse to the actuator on the PS.

If it sees unlock, it sends unlock pulse to actuator on PS.

It only reads lock/unlock sent by the key actuator rod (look in the door to see how the system works) So if you lock, and then close the door without lifting the handle, it will unlock the DS door but not the PS since the sensor didn't see an unlock from the key rod.

If you hooked your new DS actuator to the key rod, the passenger side would follow like you'd want it to.

If you just hook it up to the latch rod, the PS won't follow, unless you manually use the key.

If you try to lock an already locked door, the DS rod wouldn't move (actuator would surge without motion, fairly normal for PL vehicles, people hit the button 300x while they walk away) and the PS wouldn't move because it won't see a change in position. Same with unlock.

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: January 18th, 2012, 8:14 pm
by RobMinhas
Ryan wrote:Follow me locks:

There is a little position sensor on the driver's side door lock. There are two possible positions, lock and unlock.

If it sees lock, it sends a lock pulse to the actuator on the PS.

If it sees unlock, it sends unlock pulse to actuator on PS.

It only reads lock/unlock sent by the key actuator rod (look in the door to see how the system works) So if you lock, and then close the door without lifting the handle, it will unlock the DS door but not the PS since the sensor didn't see an unlock from the key rod.

If you hooked your new DS actuator to the key rod, the passenger side would follow like you'd want it to.

If you just hook it up to the latch rod, the PS won't follow, unless you manually use the key.

If you try to lock an already locked door, the DS rod wouldn't move (actuator would surge without motion, fairly normal for PL vehicles, people hit the button 300x while they walk away) and the PS wouldn't move because it won't see a change in position. Same with unlock.
That clears up a lot! Thanks Ryan, I think I'll have my one actuator attached to the DS key rod if that's possible. It'll make it much easier.
Thanks a lot!

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: January 20th, 2012, 12:40 am
by myfirstmazda
myfirstmazda wrote:what controls the timing advance on a sohc b6? is it all in the ecu? mine seems like it's going all over the place when I accelerate.
or is there some part in the distributor that affects advance?

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: January 20th, 2012, 9:00 am
by Ryan
Total electronic advance.

Mechanical advance, you wouldn't see that on any FI motor....

There used to be old motors where there'd be a linkage off of the throttle that would twist the distributor, mechanical advance. Heh.

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: January 28th, 2012, 8:35 pm
by im2bad4ya
Got my GS alt in the mail today to swap into my car. It came with absolutely nothing else, bolts or pulleys. I know I have to swap the pulley over from the current alt so that's fine. I also assumed I could swap over the lower mounting bolt but it doesn't reach the nut on the GS alt. Just wanted to check if that's normal so I can go out on Monday and prepare to look for a bolt that will work. Do you happen to know the bolt thread size? I checked and I think it's M10x1.25 but I wanna check with the Jedi master first.

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: January 29th, 2012, 11:13 am
by Ryan
Personally, I would just hit up a JY and pocket it.

I put a MPV alty on my BP, I used an 80's MX-6 PS bolt.

:shrug:

you're probably going to have a rough time finding the proper one in a parts store.

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: May 13th, 2012, 3:05 am
by RobMinhas
I have a question that some of you guys may laugh at, I'm digging for some more info on a BPt swap and I want to know how much power my F series transmission can handle as far as HP and TQ goes. For specific information, wether or not it helps, my F series is from a 95 RS.

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: May 15th, 2012, 12:10 am
by Ryan
Some people pop them with BP's, but I think others go as high as 200 without problems.

Its mostly about how you drive it, methinks.

But in building a 80 hp upto 200 hp, is $100 worth of transmission work really off the table?

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: May 15th, 2012, 12:27 am
by RobMinhas
Ryan wrote:Some people pop them with BP's, but I think others go as high as 200 without problems.

Its mostly about how you drive it, methinks.

But in building a 80 hp upto 200 hp, is $100 worth of transmission work really off the table?
Well I'm putting a BPt into my 95 RS, assuming I can find one. I had to replace the clutch in my f series about 6000kms ago so if I can I'd like to use my existing transmission. All I plan on doing is replicate the stock BPt, not gonna change the turbo or anything so I think it'll be around 200HP and I'm curious if my f series can handle it. It's a money saver as well as save me time digging up a g series trans.

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: September 10th, 2012, 12:20 am
by RobMinhas
Wondering if anyone knows how to remove the brake booster from a 94 RS? I saw one bolt and it seems to be the one mounting the Master Cylinder to the booster, felt around a bit too but couldn't find anythign obvious. Don't want to damage it since it looks nice and new.

Re: The "Quick Question" Thread (please search first)

Posted: September 10th, 2012, 2:41 am
by Evo_Spec
RobMinhas wrote:Wondering if anyone knows how to remove the brake booster from a 94 RS? I saw one bolt and it seems to be the one mounting the Master Cylinder to the booster, felt around a bit too but couldn't find anythign obvious. Don't want to damage it since it looks nice and new.
i answered this in your worklog, refer to that for the answer