Projectzemx3 worklog - DEEP DISH AND STRETCHED! pics inside

[projectzemx3]

oh man neither can I !!!

that blue door sucks, but ill have the whole car sprayed before summer. im going to do red again so that my engine bay doesnt look ridiculous. ill throw some pearl or something in the paint.

my oem sides are going to be sweet as well

i wouldnt mind picking up a euro bumper with the fog lights and using the stock GS lip. i also have the rear mud flaps to go with it as well.

i think it will look bad a--!!!

stock GS rims too

[projectzemx3]

ok before i go to bed:

everything is hooked up now so we went ahead and compression tested it.


the front bank cylinders 2 - 4 - 6 are reading 200 psi per cylinder - awesome.

the rear bank is a different story. cylinder 1 read 50 psi, then 70 psi. dropped some oil down there and it read 100 psi.

cylinders 3 and 5 read 150 psi each.

so now we know the rear bank the timing must be off atleast one tooth. so now we need to re-time it. but im worried about cylinder ones low compression.

if it was just a timing issue wouldnt cylinders 1 - 3 - 5 read the same? i think so.

hopefully after we re-time it the compression will go up to 200 psi per cylinder back there. but i have doubts about cylinder ones low compression.

anyways bed time.

[colinsmx3]

So is the car gonna be ready for us to see April 12th??

[projectzemx3]

So is the car gonna be ready for us to see April 12th??

oh ya, i guess if the compression is still down on cylinder one with proper rear bank timing then i guess ill have to find out why its low and fix it.

piston rings, maybe a valve seal????

i am not driving that piece of s--- saturn winter beater in the summer i REFUSE!!!

[Nd4SpdSe]

well, the test we did on my front bank since it's of couse easier, was to pull the front valve cover so we could see the cam positions and did a leak down. We could see, regardless of the timing, that the valves were closed, and air was still passing by. If you did it that way, you'd be able to check if the valves and/or rings are sealing.

[projectzemx3]

so on saturday i re timed the ze again, compression tested and it was low still on the rear bank. 170 psi and cylinder one read 100 on the rear. the front bank read 210 across the board. i re timed it again today just the rear cam pully, and i dont care what anyone says the timing is dead on, but it read 150 psi cylinder one and the rest rear bank read 170. the front remaining at 210. i put the all the accesory belts back on without the timing covers and ran it for approx. 30 seconds, waited, compression tested it and came out with 220 psi on 5 cylinders and I think jwmx3 yelled 230 on one of the rear ones?

anyways so we started it again and ran it for 10 minutes. it was loud!!!!

great feeling, very excited

[wytbishop]

Hey good work gettin her running. I can't wait for that feeling too.

I was wondering...did you look at the RS brake booster at all when you were figuring that all out? I was prowling the Pick n' Pull today and pulling apart boosters and masters and I walked up to an RS and noticed that the booster is slim like the MX-6, but of course the master is long...also like the 6. I pulled the master back and the RS booster looks like the GS booster inside. The piston is sealed in the same (or at least similar) way using the oil seal and retainer ring. Did you consider using the GS clevis and brake rod with the RS booster and the GS master? I think if you could put the GS rod into the RS booster, you could use the GS master just by shortening the plunger.

Anyway, I ran out of time today so i didn't pull the RS booster. I'm sure I can find a way to do this without cutting the booster.

[projectzemx3]

yeah. basically. the internals of the slim mx6 booster are the same as the mx3 one. the mx6 booster is thinner so piston in the master cylinder stick in too far. take apart your booster and shorten that push rod.

I wrote up what jwmx3 and i did to make this work.

http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=68889" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[wytbishop]

Thanks for doing that. I appreciate being able to share tips and tricks like this.

Have you tested the brakes yet? How is the pedal feel? I expect that with a smaller volume booster, there will be less pedal assist.

[projectzemx3]

well brakes are solid right now. i havent driven it yet but i think it will be fine. the booster is thinner but the overall circumference of the booster is larger so it probably makes up for it.

i have all new brakes on the car so however it feels now is all because of the booster. it should be fine tho i am not worried about it.

it works for mx6's fine so it should be ok.

[wytbishop]

I am positive I can make this work without opening the booster. Just looking at them, the MX3 RS booster is similar in depth to the MX6 unit. I think by removing the adjuster in the RS booster and shortening the plunger in the GS master I can make it work. Then there's no fitment issue with the firewall.

I'm goign to take some measurements and figure out the lengths of things this weekend.

[projectzemx3]

cool man give it a try. its not really a huge deal to grind away that part of the lip for booster fitment.

[wytbishop]

I think this is the best new idea anyone's had in a long time. You get huge props from me for thinking of it. I'm just trying to find a way to make it easy for everyone to do it...without welding.

[projectzemx3]

haha thanks!

jwmx3 played a big part of this mx6 booster idea. props go to him.

[fowljesse]

Yeah, congrats from me, too! That seems to be the solution to an OOoold problem.