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MS6 you mean mazda 283mm rotor (like mine) or 320 from MPS ? It`s very easy to fit.

The MazdaSpeed 6 are 320mm, and that is my target for this project.

I thought I'd found a possible 2 piston replacement for the MS6 caliper, but no dice quite yet... It would require scavenging parts from 5 different cars to make it work, and it would over-complicate things beyond my comfort zone.

This is my friends mx-6 from Poland


It has Mazda 6 MPS brakes 320mm


rims min 17"

Its all p&p on 323ba v6 spindle. But you must converse to 5lug or drill rotors like I on 4 lug.

That is a clean, and SEXY MX-6!! I'm no fan of Chrome, but even that fits the car!

Sadly I won't be able to find 323f spindles stateside, and purchase+shipping would cost more than Probe front+rear spindles and spacers to clear the FD wheels in the rear. It'll mean I need to modify the Probe spindles, or run their struts/lower coilover mounts. The benefit the Probe swap offers(besides availability, I have 5 of them in ONE yard locally) is they are already 5lug hubs.

The only 16" wheel that I've found so far that clears the MS6 brakes, are the RX7 FD wheels(both the weaker original, and sturdier replacement wheels)
This is an RX7 FD wheel installed on a MazdaSpeed6, courtesy of the members at mazda6club.com:


The guy who test fit the wheels said that the wheel would turn, but had light contact with the caliper, full rotation. Grinding a few mm off of the outer edge of the caliper WILL allow the wheels to clear.

It's possible, but only barely, and the trickiest part will be getting the rears to clear both the strut assembly and the fenders at the same time.

MrMazda92 wrote:Grinding a few mm off of the outer edge of the caliper WILL allow the wheels to clear.

Grinding caliper is always tricky part and could not end well, but good luck!

I wondering how much this setup will be heavier than stock and mazda 6 - 283mm brakes...

I am hoping for the best, since it'll literally be 2-3mm at the most that needs to be removed. If I utterly had to, I could have the wheels modified slightly, but I'd prefer the calipers for cost purposes. Thank you!

It'll probably be 50% heavier than stock, at least, but the FD wheels are lighter than stock honeycombs. The 5 lug hubs, larger rotors, and larger calipers will add weight, but the reduction on the outer edge will help to offset that increase.

Fingers crossed!

Oh man that MX6 with the Aspec touring kit is so hawt

What are you doing for a knock sensor for the megasquirt?

As far as I know, it'll work as it would with the factory ECU. I haven't messed with tuning yet, since I'm still lacking a wideband and external IAT sensor. I figured I'd rather put the moneys towards the G4 before any more extras, since I won't have as much space to work on the car for much longer, with my coming move.

I wonder if MegaSquirt will let me decide exactly how much to retard timing when knock is sensed... I have something to research now!

No luck on the MS6 calipers... The local guy sold them out from under me, since he had a higher offer. 2 days before the trade too.

Now I'll need to go through the Mazda6 forums probably, so I may as well put that money towards the G4 swap first. I'm going to be pretty low on updates this month, since all I'm really doing is fixing the MS bumper and swapping my sister's engine and trans. for her. Work, work, and more work... At least that'll force me to save my money for a while, then I'll actually have enough to buy what I NEED this month.

weede_klze wrote:This is my friends mx-6 from Poland

Nice and shinny MX-6

There's something that I have been meaning to do for an awfully long time, and I'm finally prepared to do it properly.

TOTAL A/C DELETE!!!

I de-belted the sucker a while back, and have enjoyed a barely noticeable improvement since then. As my plans to move have been pushed back repeatedly, I'm not expecting to NEED A/C for quite a while now. I intend to keep everything intact, and stored in a box just in case, but I do plan on leaving it out permanently.

I'm basically going off of David Coleman's writeup, which can be found here(a copy of it):
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=25995&p=144790&hil ... ht#p144790

I am curious though, about whether or not I can remove all of the lines from the engine bay, without removing my dash inside the car? I've been meaning to remove the dash for a while, and tackle some annoying rattles concealed beneath it... As well as figure out a permanent mounting solution for my MegaSquirt.

I have been blessed with a very large indoor space, already loaded to the gills with tools, in which I can work on the car(It's climate controlled, VERY well lit, and has a smooth concrete floor over which my creeper can finally see some use).

I'm planning to do quite a bit of long-awaited maintenance, now that this space is available for my use. Including tackling that damned "bouncing" in the front left corner, which I am still praying is the wheel-bearing or hub. If it's the transmission, I'll be making the swap over to a taller geared MX-6/626 trans, since all the work will be done either way, I may as well add 1-2 freeway MPGs while it's torn down.

Back on topic of the A/C removal, is it un-wise to remove all of the visible lines in the engine bay, yet leave them connected between the dash and the firewall? Or should I simply plug holes as I uncover them? Thank you guys.

You dont have to take out the entire dash just he glove box and as far as removing all the lines it would only be for visual purposes all the lines together weigh about 10lbs

Awesome, that's easy then.

It's marginal weight savings for the lines, but less crap in the way come swap and wire-tuck time. If it's not being used(like cruise control, wiper fluid reservoir/lines, power-steering), then it's going bye-bye.

I'm hoping to cut it down to around 2,400 pounds before I consider it "finished".

I always used to hate that my MX-3 didnt have AC but now i dont have to do what your doing