MX-3.com

Let the fun begin. Great work.

how has the plastidip held up so far? i'm definetly considering respraying with this instead of painting again.

mx3matt wrote:how has the plastidip held up so far? i'm definetly considering respraying with this instead of painting again.

The Plastidip is not as durable as paint. I was bashing around finishing the car in my tiny one car garage, and I scuffed and scratched it in a few places. I touched it up in a few places and it touches up really easy. I am undecided on it so far. I think it looks really good, and if your careful it is a viable option for a low buck paint job. Worst case you can try it, and if you don't like it you can literally grab an edge and peel it off. I can't decide if I want to occasionally touch up the Plastidip or peel it all off and lay down some Rust-Oleum with a foam roller instead. Rust-Oleum is Acrylic Enamel which is an old school proper durable automotive finish.

Went to the Guelph Spring Cruise today. I had a blast, really enjoyed the car today. It's handling capabilities are much higher then my courage level. I assumed it would be reasonably fast in a straight line, but it's balance and level of grip were a surprise in the cork screws and switch backs. A few shots of my beast, and if your interested click on the link to see all the cars. (There are many MR-2's as a number of car clubs have combined including a MR-2 club).









A link to the cruise: http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s309 ... %20Cruise/

Incert excuses here!

IMACHU2 wrote:I used painters tape and cloths line to "plumb" the brakes...Three of the lines were metric on one side and standard on the other...I bought all metric lines

Do you remember exactly what size the flare nuts are and what flare they use? I'm going to be buying some brake lines this week and I remember being unsure the last time I looked at them in the store.

wytbishop wrote:

IMACHU2 wrote:I used painters tape and cloths line to "plumb" the brakes...Three of the lines were metric on one side and standard on the other...I bought all metric lines

Do you remember exactly what size the flare nuts are and what flare they use? I'm going to be buying some brake lines this week and I remember being unsure the last time I looked at them in the store.

I cheated and asked to see a MX-3 flex line (they had it in stock) LOL

That is exactly what I did...lol.

Turns out though I got the entire kit and caboodle off a 96' GS at the Pick n Pull for about $45. Non-ABS proportioning valve and all four hard lines. Installed them today and it all went together like butta.

Bought a couple of matching wheels to put my 225/50/15 drag radials on.


Got a bottle warmer to maintain the optimum nitrous bottle pressure of 900-1000 psi.


I bought a gauge to monitor the nitrous pressure.

do N2O bottles get cold like CO2 bottles when they empty quickly? is that what the warmer is for?

BTW, i found the perfect brake setup for you.

Now that's a brake setup !

n2o is in a more gas form when at higher pressure. This means it can flow faster into your engine.

Wowsers! Them's the brakes! I am happy with the stock (MX-3) brakes, the 326 stops on a dime and gives you 9 cents change.

Yep, with nitrous you don't get the proper amount of additional horsepower if the bottle pressure falls under 900PSI, The bottle warmer helps keep the pressure up. For example my kit is currently jetted for 75 extra horsepower @ 900PSI + bottle pressure. If the bottle is not full or it is cold (or both) you won't get 900 + PSI or all of the extra 75hp.

Finally caught up with this worklog again! So much awesome.
You must be uber stoked to have gotten it to this stage, where you can now enjoy it properly!
You know you're hardcore when combining 3 cars into one isn't hardcore enough, so you have to add n2o

ethand wrote:Finally caught up with this worklog again! So much awesome.
You must be uber stoked to have gotten it to this stage, where you can now enjoy it properly!
You know you're hardcore when combining 3 cars into one isn't hardcore enough, so you have to add n2o

You flatter me. My build is more of a time consuming engine swap with the easiest power adder. Hard core is these dood's putting C230 kompressor's or turbo kits on them. Same guys using stand alone ECU's and Toyota transmissions with adapters, those doods are hard core! I am enjoying it for sure, there is a lot of freedom knowing the engine cost $800, not $8000 if it blows up and if I crash it, a new shell is worth $500, not $10000. (326 vs my Mustang) LOL. The "care" of the finish is also freedom, just wash and go, not wash, dry, wax and worry.

hows the finish holding up these days?

The finish is holding up very well, it has collected no new wounds now that is on the outside LOL (Burned it with my propane heater, scrapped it with the jigsaw while cutting the hole for the new sunroof and washed some of it off while gasing it up with a jerry can all while it was in the garage).

Got my old skool 225/50/15 BF Goodrich Comp T/A drag radials mounted and balanced today.