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Sleeper6 wrote:Ball joint fixed, now awaiting my package and getting some roloc discs for my next project

Where did you end up getting the right ball joint? AZ showed both part numbers but they referenced back to each other.

Will Thomas wrote:

Sleeper6 wrote:Ball joint fixed, now awaiting my package and getting some roloc discs for my next project

Where did you end up getting the right ball joint? AZ showed both part numbers but they referenced back to each other.

Advance auto was the only one that showed the right part # for the 16MM. Moog K9967 Special order so you may have to wait a day to get it.

Finally got that G4

Looks like an EGR block off I have those resistors for you and will put them in my desk so you can drop by pretty much anytime and pick them up. Are you going to polish all that goodness? I have my grinder set up with the buffer wheels and the other one with the brass wires. you are welcome to come over and use them if you like.

what are the benefits of a egr block off, i was thinking of getting one

The egr is to correct a vacuum leak from the tin plate thats being used right now. And yes polishing is in the works but that was more to clean it up from when I first got it, the rest will tie in to my future summer plans.

kulluminati777 wrote:what are the benefits of a egr block off, i was thinking of getting one

If your EGR system is performing correctly, there is no need to delete it on a normally aspirated engine. Sometimes when you add headers they don't have provisions for the EGR tube and sometimes the vacuum lines leak and the valve doesn't work. When this happens, it is cheaper to remove it (usually). Beware that you might not pass a state inspection if you have them where you live. Keep in mind to do it right takes alot more than removing the valve and blocking the hole.

Interesting fact, a new KLG4 intake from the dealer is a slight $1440.00+tx

My machinist found this out in his search for some vris seals for my intake, thought I should share. Oh and hoping to have another bit of goodies in the mail by friday to add to my replaced slave cylinder and ordered master cylinder as my clutch keeps slipping intermittently and giving me issues going into gear so heres to hoping its just a leak in the hydraulic bit.

For anyone else experiencing a slipping clutch once your car reaches operating temp when the weather is warm or after 20-30mins of driving heres some things to check for:

1)Freeplay in the pedal (aprox .5" to an inch is what your looking for, not taunt) other wise your clutch is staying partially engaged. [_]
2)If you dont have freeplay adjust the screw behind the clutch pedal to gain freeplay, if not check for leaks? [X check! ]


When you remove it if its leaking like above your seal will probably look like this when its out in your hand, not good!:


Also its a good idea to check your lines for leaks and other nasties. This cant be a good thing


Needless to say repacement was in order:


Job complete! well minus bleeding


Oh and good luck bleeding the system out dry without one of these, I wasted about4 hrs with gravity bleeding and pumping the pedal before giving in and just buying one for myself:



Now I just need to hunt down a white 370z that pulled away from me when I tacked out last week as my clutch went haywire

Next up, wires/cap to eliminate miss on cyl 5 and coating of the intake/VCs

Important update, I'm on the fence of condemning motor #2 officially, again . Did some quick tests to try to eliminate a slight loping in my idle at 500-1000rpms that goes away under throttle. I am very ocd about a smooth idle btw. I tried to isolate the issue to ignition/fueling by swapping over injectors/changing plugs/leads to no avail. A quick peak down the #5 cylinder has confirmed my bad luck with a clean piston top and a vacuum on the tailpipe when the idle lops. Im thinking a combination of a headgasket with a valve seat issue (I didnt do a leak down test to isolate that one, figured head gasket was enough bad news)

So pricing for a JY full rebuild shall ensue. Atleast Ill know it will be able to withstand boost at that point.

Good luck so far, I havent seen any fluctuation in coolant levels yet this week so hopefully It may not be a head gasket, but Im still concerned about proper valve seating due to the idle issue. We do have a full intake valvetrain cleaning setup at work though I am tempted to try as it runs the car directly off the cleaner solution for about 20 mins, only downside is if the seats are worn theres no going back and it might be worse.

Did readjust my clutch pedal rod out again as well, I really dont remember having to keep it as loose as it is but atleast its not slipping under summer temps now.

Oh and I may be re-positioned to MS (yes mazdaspeed) service instead of honda in the near future

Man it is a pain bleeding these clutches & brakes. 2 people & alot of patience haaa. How much was that bleeder thingee you got?

wagZE wrote:Man it is a pain bleeding these clutches & brakes. 2 people & alot of patience haaa. How much was that bleeder thingee you got?

about $38, It was what I should have done to start with. You hook it up to the bleeder and just keep pumping it to keep a constant 15psi vacuum and it pulls the fluid through the system for you to prime it in about 5-10mins.

early christmas, except now these will have to wait until I can get a set of JY heads over to him to refinish before tackling my headgaskets. Yes sadly Ive noted a small coolant sipping issue that I thought was just draining from the reservoir position before I relocated it Anyhow mad props to Jeremy over at GrammerGates for hooking me up!



My new fav. pic


This is what you call clean runners, quite the steal compared to the dealer price of $1440