MX-3.com

That sounds like an idea. I'll definately look into it if I run out of time in aquiring the Mazda one.

1.6 leaves next saturday

Opened a paypal dispute. nothing so far.

I recently attemped to install some... apparently older design guages that I stole from a J/Y. I had to drill out the holes, as they were stock size. Don't do that. Not unless you have a drill press. If its not centred, it looks like garbage, which mine do.

I also buggered my gas guage a bit. It turns out I buggered it in a good way, its more accurate now

Either way, tax return spells reverse glows Also thinking about suspension... and wheel combos...

I also plan on buying a mini paint set up with my mechanic. I'll do bodywork over summer, and my car will look like nightfire's.

Discovery today.

The brake pads are held in place by two pins.

Mine both broke off

My pads were floating! I'm lucky I didn't loose them on the road. In the process of aquiring new hardware. For now, they are held in with improvised style.

I advise to all of you to check the condition of these pins! You can look through the wheel, its not hard at all!

http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php ... _P-029.gif" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Parts #3 in the lower diagram.

I'm pulling my B6 on Saturday.


I'm quickly going over the swap again...


1993 B6 -> 1991 Ford BP

I need to use my MX accessories - alternator & ps pump. Also using my MX thermo sender unit and oil pressure switch (its 8 months old? newer than the original BP one)

I'm apparently once again getting my Mazda fuel rail from mx3boyze... but who freaking knows. If not in time, I'll improvise.

I know about the VICS connector - blue/orange to pin 26. red/white tapped into red/white(injector harness) but this isn't necessary.

4 wire disty connector, splice 3 and run one more to ECU (unsure on pin, check shop manual)


Anyone want to chuck in last minute advice? "By the way, that doesn't fit" something like that.

why splice and getto rig a ur ecu and harnessing when u can get a bp ecu and harness save ur self the splicing and gettoness to ... :0

'cause I don't have access to that Its not a lot of splicing anyway. One wire gets tapped, three get run. I can make it pretty. I have a BP09 ECU.

The things I'm worried about is hardware. which motors mounts to use, does my PS pump and alt fit... which brackets to use....

Update!


Sorry, forgot camera, no pictures.


about 1:30 we got started. Pulled off intake, battery, ps pump... blah blah blah sat motor onto a old tire on a engine dolly. Pulled the car up, the engine and tranny stayed behind.

dragged it over to the BP, popped off the tranny/starter. Looked for differences.


The good: The BP oil cooler works right into the heater core. No need to remove. In fact, you could install one on a B6.

The bad: ford fuel rail fubars the entire electrical. need to splice the whole fuel rail connector. Disty is differnet colours, but it plugs in and works.
The pullys are different. B6 works all on serpentine. 1st gen BP uses a V belt for waterpump/alternator. BP alternator has an odd shaft diameter so its hard to swap pullys. Also, MPV alternators require a longer bolt. (use a PS pump bolt off of any mazda)

I'm missing PVC line and IM support. dang.



So, the BP is in. I'm waiting on fuel rail and alternator... and once I sort out the electrical, I can start her up

Yay! I'll get proof eventually.

u will start seeing what i mean by u should have found the mazda but its a learning experience for u..

Sir, it was not for lack of trying. I'm on a tight budget, and I tried EVERY scrap yard in the capital of Manitoba, drove 3.5H west to the next biggest city, and NOTHING.

Splicing doesn't scare me, and I have all the wiring diagrams from any Mazda nearly ever built....


Its just time, which is no problem since I don't have some of the more key components... like an alternator.


I'm very content with how its going.

u do know that u can swap the wp and ud pulley

mean u can use ur sohc alt and the bolt was well as the water pump and underdrive pulley from ur sohc and bolt the on 2 the BP that way ur back 2 serpentine instead of that half v-belt serpentine bp setup..

use a mazda engine coolant temp sensor the ford one has a different reading that senor next to ur thermostat housing a size 17mm would be need to remove it..

The B6 crank pully does not use a keyway and therefore does not fit onto the keyed short nose BP crank. We tried. Stupid short nose.

I swapped thermo sender units. I used a 17.

well good luck with that bp then i hope it last..

Me too. That motor cost ~1k.

u over paid

bought it with the works minus ps/alt $300
headwork $180
w/p tbelt kit... ~120?
thermo was ~12
vc trade was $20
ATF was ~10
carb cleaner was ~10
piston rings-~40?

I had a list somewhere, but it worked out to ~1k. Thats not bad for a full refurbish, all supplies and such included.

Motor will run like a 2009.

I don't see how I could have cut costs any more without cutting parts. I did absolutely everything myself minus the head work.

I'm happy with the goodness to money ratio.