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hey, why are there no pictures in this thread!

Engine bay photo added to post #1.

Oops.....



This is why you chock your wheels when you ramp or jack a car... Because she's so low to the ground, I had to go from one 2x6 to two 2x6s, to my ramps on top of another 2x6, just to get it high enough to remove the exhaust.

I chocked the wheels, but the incline was enough that when I was removing the chocks, I lost one of the 2x6s to a slick driveway, and the car caught the edge of the ramp.

One of the hardest things to fix too, yay me huh?

That stinks....... A set of full length skirts would cover it.

I installed the EGR on my ZE, I connected the electrical and coolant lines (just because) but not the exhaust pipe. This eliminated getting any code.

Your idle isn't stepping up on start up so I'd double check your IAC. Nice to start up and have her run nice. You could try turning up your heater/defrost fan on start up as that will give you a little increase in RPM.

Aaron, you're probably right... this car will be MS kitted, so no full length sides unfortunately. I'll fix it, it just means I have to live with the damage until I do.

Dan, the ZE came from a US Millenia! I'm afraid something is actually wrong with the EGR. I need to just remove it... I've gotten 1/2 way through my to do list so far, I'll have to deal with that when I start on exhaust. Is there any harm in just disconnecting the electrical? I'd think not, from my limited understanding of EGR.

I'll check the IAC again, no harm in making sure. Thanks

disconnecting the sensors on the egr *shouldnt* cause problems other then a code. that being said one of the techs at my school thinks my over fueling issue might be because of the lack of an egr.

I don't mind the code so much, I check it regularly anyways because of the code 9. I want to make sure nothing else sneaks up on me. I really need to tap that sensor in...

How off is your fuel again? I'm not so hot at converting metric to American standard...
I posted in your GI thread, but I'll say it again here because I think it's a good idea, but you should definitely look into Megasquirt... especially after all you've spent figuring this out, it wouldn't hurt, and it will probably solve your problem, while giving you a bit more power to boot!

average is about 18mpg on my car in the city, last tank was 15mpg and ive had it as low as 13mpg when i had the car idle for probably an hour one night. with that kind of mileage i should be beating Porsche's.

Amen to that... If there's anything I can do to help troubleshoot, let me know. I'll help any way I can.

mikeinaus wrote:average is about 18mpg on my car in the city, last tank was 15mpg and ive had it as low as 13mpg when i had the car idle for probably an hour one night. with that kind of mileage i should be beating Porsche's.

OMG, that's the mileage that my truck gets

Got the car idling and running smoothly again!

Now it's just swapping the suspension over, bolting the exhaust back on to get it to the DMV, and fixing whatever breaks next. Yay for 20 year old cars!

Brakes are bled, there was a ton of air in the system!! The rear brakes had the most, the front was pretty good! Braking is definitely greatly improved! The car is officially road worthy, and is insured to drive again. I just can't drive it after 9 PM... Uncorked KLs make a lot of noise!

Next on the list, tightening the shift linkage up better than factory.

After that, swapping suspension from the '92 and replacing broken shifter surround + damaged console.

Going to be a busy week for me

Disconnecting the EGR is fine as long as it isn't stuck in the open position. Disconnecting the exhaust line and capping it is the only way to be sure,

I'll be completely removing it when the time comes to rebuild this KL.
My other one won't even go in with EGR.

Is that really all their is to it though, as far as disconnecting it goes? Just leave it plugged in to avoid the CEL for now?
From what I've been able to determine, removing the EGR will only hurt economy on a factory A/F map, is this correct? It seems to me like properly analyzing your A/F ratio with a wideband, and tuning accordingly would be enough to avoid any loss in economy at cruise(which is the only time EGR does anything).

That's what I've been able to determine so far, from this, and other boards.

I need to be careful, or this might actually start to look like a worklog!



The package on the left is the CorkSport "Bronzoil" shift bushing kit.
This kit installs with your factory hardware, but I will be replacing the factory nuts with nylocks.
If you keep the factory nut, I recommend you use threadlocker(or similar) to hold it in place.
Setting the tension of the nut/bolt takes time, but getting it just right is well worth it.

The package on the right is a much cheaper alternative to the CorkSport "3rd link" kit.
You can find these bushings at McMasterCarr.com, the product # is 5448T5. These go for ~$7 shipped.
For this swap, you will first need a grinder, or cut off wheel. Here is a great guide for this: 3rd Link How-To

I will be cleaning up the linkage prior to the swap tomorrow, I may snap a few pictures before and after.
Typically my hands are too dirty while working to take any pictures, and my girlfriend doesn't like following me
around all day.