MX-3.com

I tried like two days in a row 50 different times and about 18 combinations. It should work like in a post but for some strange reason it will not. Do I need to turn BBC code off? i thought I read somewhere custom signature avatars were forbidden unless your are privileged? Does this mean I may not have clearance?

We aren't allowed custom avatars because the site owner feels it will be immediately abused, and he's right, just go visit Probetalk. PolarExpress17 or w/e seems like a valid example.

Okay, finally success! I could not use the code for forums link on the your images page but going to view that image page I used the imbed forum code in the drop down box in bottom right. It really should be the same but is not. Unknown why the signature field requires this but posts accept the forum code on the your images page

Thanks for the help Ryan & Dragon1212.

Today found out hard way that a man trans Protege pass CV shaft assy will not work albeit it would if the cat was not there and a exhaust pipe shield was used. Boot hits the cat. Should have helped the boys change the clutch and I would have known. Tried to find a escort or 323 man trans pass shaft assy to no avail at the salvage so that Protege one was a act of desperation. All escorts were all autos and no 323's.

However found my sticky throttle problem. Was carboned up plenum. Throttle cable is good.
Also found a bracket holding wiring harness on trans with messed up bolt like tack welded on the end and not screwed down all the way causing a lot of movement hence the dimple was not working to keep it still. Bkt has 2 bolts in it on the newer cars with same trans and also holds brake line. The boys are running thread repair tap like kit tool into hole and making sure it tightens properly.

Ryan wrote:We aren't allowed custom avatars because the site owner feels it will be immediately abused, and he's right, just go visit Probetalk. PolarExpress17 or w/e seems like a valid example.

Damn straight... I wish we could have custom avatars myself, but Jeff's reasoning is spot on. As is your example... I think that "PolarExpress17" is a little pretentious myself, to be honest...

MrMazda92 wrote:

Ryan wrote:We aren't allowed custom avatars because the site owner feels it will be immediately abused, and he's right, just go visit Probetalk. PolarExpress17 or w/e seems like a valid example.

Damn straight... I wish we could have custom avatars myself, but Jeff's reasoning is spot on. As is your example... I think that "PolarExpress17" is a little pretentious myself, to be honest...

Sorry don't mean to jack your WL, but I don't think there is anything wrong with this example, it seems quite tasteful compared to some folks on RX8 club

The very dirty plenum from previous owner neglect was causing not only the sticky throttle but ALL of my drive ability problems. Used about half a large can of cleaner. Since cleaning from the throttle plate on in to as far as the jet spray carburetor cleaner with tube on it would go The following problems have completely cleared up. Set the idle to 800 in diagnostic mode and its holding and recovers well below that when giving too much clutch:

1. Sticking throttle at idle particularly 1st use of the day.
2. Idle creeped up over a 4 week period from 800 rpm to 1600 rpm after setting in diagnostic (TEN to GND) mode when setting timing after disty mod.
3. Would not maintain idle or recover lower than 800 rpm.
4. Due to high idle man trans would not go into reverse or 1st gears without heavy grinding (which I refused to do) or using 2nd or 3rd first and quickly shifting to !st or R when not moving, 2nd gear down shift and up shift difficult, all other gears less difficult to find unless shift very early and aggressive with clutch.
5. Poor MPG.

Shifter is still a bit rattlingly which seems to be some main bearing noise that may get worse or not? MZ-3 is filled w/gear oil GL5 80w 90w full synthetic was very clean when I got it 2k mi ago. The trans I pulled at salvage had auto trans fluid in it which is recommended only for below zero temps. Have had a Metro man trans do this rattling that had been abused towing things by prior owner that failed completely and filled trans with alum pieces after numerous oil changes by us to prevent it. Took 40k mi of hwy miles to do it. Am I gonna have to change the trans eventually (within 150k mi)? I need to know what you all think because I want to return the salvage tans if I am not going to need it. I have about 28 days to make up my mind. I want to keep it if I am going to need it based of failure rates and indications from your experiences.

Also found out why shifter is sloppy the plastic bushings were missing on the shifter rod "U" joint. Did not know they were suppose to be there until I saw some on the salvage car we pulled the trans out of. The ones I got are dry rotted and not usable.

Anyone know if there are any after market brass hat bushings avail for the shifter rod?? They are about the size of door hinge bushings in the repair hinge repair kits. I may measure some to see how close they are.

Solved sticky throttle and drive-ability issues with good TB cleaning but problem came back. So based on symptoms the thermostat had to be open. After tearing her off she was stuck wide open and the centering pin was wedged in the valve. Now just need to clean throttle body again.

Starting a turbo project see my other posts. Am getting a turbo (likely from a friend) very cheap who has more than he needs. Its a IHI (Japan? not IHI US I think) VJ-(hopefully 14) very likely from early 90's Subaru's. Just need to fabricate a adapter triangular flange for the ex mani I will be finding soon (with your help hopefully confirming my salvage car options see other post). I have seen most with the Garrett rectangular with holes in the center of the side (T2 std series at JGS below I think) runs not near the corners like the Mitsu setup (JGS shows T3 as a separate std for mitsu turbo). I can't make head or tales out of the flange options on the JGS Precision Tool site.

Finally have some time to take care.om my car some. My mother in law whom I loved like my own as she treated me like her son died earlier this year and we have been working very long hours getting her neglected.house market ready and am done except what my sons can handle.on their own. My MX-3 Intake corrogated bellows has been cracking and causing no power above idle but has been RTV'd up. My persistent idle issue that is much worse when engine is warm and gets better when engine is run above idle and completely disappears at anything above 1300 rpm has not gone away. At idle the engine cold runs fine but as soon as it gets a bit warm the idle falls off and is prone to intermittently just drop to nearly zero or dies with great frequency. Its making driveability extremely difficult in traffic. She seems to be running rich based on mpg being about 24 and if i hit the gas trying to prevent a idle sudden drop it will flood the engine if its late in the drop off and is more pronounced or easier when cold due to fuel map enrichment. I really have never had one run this way and need help as its peculiar like the idle motor is going wacko.

We found a vacuum leak where you can not see at all under the intake convoluted snorkel at larger plastic fitting poorly fitting as its aging and likely just got missed in inspections. Idle us much better however three things are getting much worse lately.

First the vehicle has hot errand trip idle anemia that goes away with driving a bit like medium in town and above speeds.

The second is on moderate, low and heavy in 1st gear @ 3500 RPM there is a very brief hiccup and in 2nd gear much less noticeable hiccup or cut out @ about 3700 RPM but can vary a couple hundred RPM's. Its feels like ignition cut out or fuel and is very brief and never causes complete engine stop like a bad alternator winding connection can. This occurs at all power but is more noticeable with lighter foot.

The third is the manual trans. Changed to ATF in the winter to try improving a issue with the trans kicking out of 5th gear only when accelerating lightly going up a light grade or overpass at hwy speeds (no heavy grades around here) in addition when hot after 16-18 mile drive the syncros or something do not want to let you shift into reverse or 1st without nearly killing all the RPM's by going into 1st and very quickly into reverse otherwise you will grind it.

1st and 2nd may be related. It sounds like possibly needs the O2 sensor replaced. (Denso brand only!) Be advised that the CEL doesn't necessarily kick on when the O2 sensor stops working right.
You can disconnect the O2 sensor completely and see if the symptoms change any. You'll run a bit rich IIRC.

It could also still be vacuum related.

But I don't know what hot errand trip idle anemia means. it sounds like you have a bad case of autocorrect, but that also won't throw a CEL code.

There are other possibilities such as the idle air control valve, the throttle position sensor, the throttle stop screw, the idle air screw and a combination of all of those (changing one of these variables requires you to change another generally speaking)

The transmission issue I don't believe you can fix by troubleshooting. that sounds like a replacement. If you have issues locating a replacement for a decent price (under 300) look me up in a couple months and I should be able to help with that.

Thank you, I am agreeing with you on the O2 sensor and idle control valve and or in combo with another vacuum leak(s) as very high likely culprits. I will try the connector elimination.

My auto correct is off but what I meant by ....anemia... was low rpm when hottest after a short shutdown under 30 minutes at a parts store or in town with traffic then shut down to get one or two items and start in moderate to hot weather. The rpm is very low and returns to normal after you have driven a few hundred feet.

Yes something is worn out in the trans but one of us here might know exactly what. Thanks, our hope that I do not need another trans as we pulled one from a salvage during a 50% sale. Swap out we will try first. Then diagnose the quirky one but I would like to have the suspect parts ready before tearing down, so build up is not interrupted, and because I do not replace parts not needed, and can not afford a entire internal kit/ master etc. Also the salvage one is unknown in function. So my work car can not be down but a couple days.

how are your mounts? if any of the transmission or motor mounts are destroyed or unseated properly, that could cause 5th to pop out.

The engine and transaxle mounts seem tight but we will reinspect and shake or stall torque check them. However I know due to wear on those rubber tabs around the shifter mount opening that we had to crs saftey wire the shifter in or it would fall down. Also the plastic spacers acting like bushings in the linkage below shifter were missing causing excessive throw to shift particularly into 5th & reverse. We will check alignment or centering of shifter.
Does anyone know of a source or alternate for those link bushings?

Mazda direct is where you can get the shifter bushings. There is also a non removable 3rd link that has bushings you have to cut out and replace bushings on.