Just removed:
2 good amps, a Kenwood EQ and a very good reputable Kenwood CD changer to trade maybe (post link later to items for sale) for a good head unit and suitable speakers direct mount in the MX3 and may be parts (set of alum rims?) I want or need:
KDC-C661 CD auto changer known for reliability and rock stable. DIN control cable inc. Click on image for full size.
A300.2 Precision power Art series 200 watt bridgeable amp (attractive white with colored graphics) has soft on features. Click on image for full size.
XS 2500 Phoenix Gold 500w @ 4 ohm/700w @ 20 ohm competition amp very heavy with 14 large heat sinks & gold contacts. Is underrated at 12v in compete in lower class, feed it 14.4v with a underdrive pulley on a good high output alternator use 4 ga power cable instead of 8 ga and she doubles output and is bridgeable and loaded with features.
EQ info to follow (still installed).
Write up with schematic on how to do this disty swap is here with credit to 4gotn and lazzer08 I just added here the correct CAS wire colors and a optional near oem coil placement description. Pics to follow later this week after I fix starter solenoid problem below:
http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=69706
On friday got all the parts needed for disty swap out from (Maxda?) all internal oem type to (Ford?) external type mod. Out of about 1200 cars there were several Maxda's in the salvage without the disty's and only 2 left with the internal type. Pretty obvious these are a problem. Got disty, RIC (radio interference capacitor), 3 wire module, coil and bracket, all the plugs and the entire harness that connects them. Took time to strip all else unrelated out hoping I can rout the wires in the factory harness and eliminate making some splices due to our goal of making it look oem. It all was off a Escort wagon with the DOHC 1.6L I think (don't think the year was on the fender where it normally is marked). only exception was the cap one on the escort was cracked at the mount screw common prob si I robbed a mazda SOHC since they have the same cap. May get a new rotor since the one off escort has a loose rivet. Will get the vin and year tomorrow if I go back for a few small things and maybe three alum rims I saw in a black 94 mx3.
Saturday we mounted the escort disty, spent a lot of time working out coil placement because I wanted oem placement and resistance to crash damage and water, salt, vibration and heat damage.
Had another problem making room tight with the HID ballast wiring and the control box being mounted to the tall tab absent on the escort coil/ fuse/ RIC mount bracket and in the only space available between battery and air filter box that would allow use of factory length of harness from RIC, module, and the coil plug.
So we used the mx3 bracket for main fuse box and defroster/ anti lock brakes fuses put the RIC under the aft fuses mount on inboard stud. Then reversed the "L" bracket to go under coil and drilled the small "L" bracket near center and forward a bit (nearly centered at a small indent in the coil) and bent the "L" just a bit forward to clear the shock tower with the coil bulge. Coil tower is now facing the fender. Snaking in and turning the self locking flange nut on the inboard stud was the only thing hard besides getting the hole placement near prefect. This made a three item stack up on that stud with RIC, Fuse holder mount and reversed coil "L" bracket. Made a solid mount and almost in the oem escort location up high out of harms way which is mounted on the escort in place of the 2 fuse defroster/ anti lock assy. This allowed wire routing in a square around the fuse boxes perfectly only the coil wire interferes with the fuse box lid access and can be rotated or pulled out easily because I use plenty of dielectric. We left the oem spiral wrap and heat shield coated with dielectric wrapped the coil wire with more heat shield and routed in between the battery and air box along with the two RIC wires. The rest are longer and will go in or attach to on top of the large factory harness, will edit post if we change it. I will post pics of the coil detail and orientation and finished project.
Sunday night we drained the 8 month old fuel (nice drain plug most vehicles no not have). Drained the oil, was too dirty for my liking. Then removed valve cover cleaned the minimal amount of build up. The Mobil 1 kept her satisfactorily clean. Sprayed the cam lobes and lifters with prolong and doused the upper end with HD 30 oil and then filled the crankcase with HD 30 for a temporary engine clean out.
Got her running she started no prob with the following 2 exceptions:
1. Had to swap the CAS (crank angle sensor) wires like the notes state. The correct connection for mine (should all be same) is from the:
Original 6 wire plug CAS green to the white on the new 4 wire dist connector and
Origional 6 wire plug CAS violet/white (violet wire was very faded and looked nearly white) to yellow/dark blue on the new 4 wire connector.
2. Only real problem now is the starter solenoid began dropping out after less than 1/4 turn of the engine after the first 45 seconds of turning over uninterrupted operation. Longest start attempt was about 20 seconds when she would not start before CAS wire swap. Removal and testing found solenoid failed the first test terminal M to S it should have had some continuity but passed the 2nd S to case (coil windings has some resistance) and works fine under no load. Today robbed a newer kia for the solenoid and its now intermittent on dropping out. Will have to check "S" wire voltage from ign switch.
During troubleshooting before the CAS wire swap we could not hear the fuel pump is it a solenoid type and real quiet I have not seen one of those since my '80 Prelude? Nearly every other vehicle I own (9) we can hear the rotary pump in the tank wining for 3-4 sec with key on.
2 unrelated musings:
Timing belt interval manual states is 60k mi is this real life service limit? My answer manual and today acquired drivers manual state 90k mi and 104k mi respectively. Seems CA wants it checked at 60,90 and changed before 104 and rest of states they want 60. Ambiguous. The half moon design lasts on most cars that ere past 104k mi and only on my metro 1.0 L 3 cyl (engineered earlier than this engine) does it snap at 73k mi like a fine watch.
More importantly, factory service manual (FSM) states damage "may" occur if this 60k mi limit is exceeded implying the engine is interference valve timing, it it? I thought I saw a post that said it was not. Need to read more n the FSM.
Changed the oil filter to a cheap one will change out after about 300 miles with the hd 30 oil and put in Mobil 1 syn 0-30 effeciency oil which meets both the 5w-30 and 10w-30 specs. Jumped the 10 to gnd @ the diag connector & set the timing the early AM Tuesday and got her real warm. Idle settled down nice and smooth about 700 per spec. Ran the trans through the gears and let the wheels spin up on jacks slow in 1st and reverse. All okay so far. Will have my 19 yrs old check drain plug for wear particles, type, oil color, smell & speedo gear for trans oil level tomorrow. Removed air box, batt and air tube mas/maf assy so I can tidy the disty wires & wrap up tomorrow. Got syn blend 80-90 for the trans and need to locate a fuel filter (old one is rusted badly) and bosch x2 plugs at Pep Boys later today.
