My (possible) turbo set up

[Timmyd865]

Just to let you know, you guys are thinking big numbers. I only wanna push about 6 psi at first. After that, I'll start buying more stuff to accompany more boost. But for 6 psi I don't think i'll hafta touch the stock ignition too much. (except for retardiing it)
Thanx guys!

[boostedmx]

your right, the stock ignition is good enough for you. i was speaking of the fuel requirements. given, 6 psi isnt much but damage could happen at low levels as well as high. keep the stock ignition and run a rrfpr and youll be fine

[mazda20]

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There is no way to richen the mixture upon boost with this method... injectors alone do not meet the fuel requirements for boost. the rrfpr is a safe way to richen the mixture by increasing fuel pressure at the injector itself.
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Have you tried it? I have and I can tell you that alone can give you a rich mixture. My runs so reach now I still got a tone of black smoke on my tail pipe. And we are not talking 16PSI of boost either. Remember the saying keep it simple.<p>quote:
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Im not sure what you mean by this but, why wouldnt you do this as a part of the turbo kit. And if you are testing your performance without some sort of fuel enrichment,, your prolly not going to have much performance after that..
basic rule-- more air = more fuel. it doesnt matter how u do it, you gotta have it--or melted pistons.<p>As for the rrfpr, the vortech is a very nice unit and has been prooven worthy by many miata turbo owners. standard rate is 12:1. if you are also adjusting the base fuel pressure you will need an adjustable one.
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Look man I am just trying to save the guy some money up front, not all of us can go out and buy a "turbo kit" some of us have to build it up. I started with the turbo then after I saw how the car ran then I made the decision on what to do next. In my case it was running rich so I decided the best way was to upgrade the ignition. Figure it out by how your car runs. If it is rich then burn it off if it is lean then add a pump or RRFPR. I am not saying that to take your car out racing as soon as you put a turbo in either, with a A/F Gauge you can see just by taking it for a test ride how it is running.<p>By the way those B6T injectors are plenty by them self for 6-8 PSI, I know because I got them and that is all I have been running for the past year.<p>[ January 18, 2003: Message edited by: Kick @#$ Mazda ]</p>

[boostedmx]

Im not tryin to make anyone mad here. just trying to push the fact that it is PART of having a turbo. some people will have no probs with just injectors. what im saying is even a 6 psi there is no way to make sure there is enough fuel when full boost is hit. it is a very cheap insurance policy at under $175. it is a fact that biger injectors cause a rough idle and stalling problems in idling situations when using the stock ecu.. why not keep the drivability of the car same as stock with enrichment when boosted.? if you think that you may meet the limits of your injectors i can see you doing them. but at 6 psi, i doubt it.<p>[ January 18, 2003: Message edited by: boostedmx ]</p>

[maldo]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr> In my case it was running rich so I decided the best way was to upgrade the ignition. Figure it out by how your car runs. If it is rich then burn it off if it is lean then add a pump or RRFPR. I am not saying that to take your car out racing as soon as you put a turbo in either, with a A/F Gauge you can see just by taking it for a test ride how it is running. <hr></blockquote><p>That is about the worst trouble shooting tips possible. If you are running rich it does not mean your ignition is weak and needs upgrading. It means you are running rich. The only cure for it is to make your car run lean. This can only effectively be done by using some sort of fuel controller, whether it be a piggyback or full stand-alone.<p>The only time you need to upgrade your ignition is when you can't keep the candle lit. <p>Air/fuel gauges are pretty useless. I cracked 2 pistons and was running rich at the time. The reaction is not quick enough and no where near linear within specific fuel ratios. Take a look and tell me what fuel ratio you are running when you hit the first Stoich led and what ratio you have when you hit the last Stoich led? Much better to spend the extra money on an EGT gauge as it is far more effective in doing nearly the same function that the A/F gauge does so poorly.

[Timmyd865]

what's an egt gauge? Just curious! Can I atmospherically dump my bov w/out a afc? Thanx guys!

[maldo]

EGT = Exhaust Gas Temperature<p>It monitors the temps of the gases exiting the cylinder. Usually #1 or #4 cylinder is your weaker cylinder as far as A/F ratios go. Temps at idle and cruise should be 850-1200*F, optimal WOT temps are around 1525-1650*F. Anything higher than 1650 and you go boom.<p>You can vent to atmosphere but you will run rich for that moment.

[boostedmx]

the egt is what measure exhaust gas temperatures. this wil tell you if your running lean or not. you need this if your tooling with your air/ fuel ratio. also i wouldnt recomend dumping your bov into the atmoshere cause it will cause a momentary rich condition which sometimes results in stalling and hesitation. you should route the hose back in so this doesnt happen. youll still have the noise just not as loud..

[UnkleDuke]

With all this talk about regulators, I was wondering about a specific product by MSD.
It's a boost referenced regulator that avoids running rich during momentary lapse in boost.
It's quite reasonably priced..Can anyone tell me if this would be a more appropriate solution?<p>Also. The MSD SCI...I was under the impression that a beefier ignition is wise under boost. At the very least, can it do any harm?

[UnkleDuke]

By the way...MSD listed the regulator as 'Universal" (part #2222 I think).
Cheers

[UnkleDuke]

By the way...MSD listed the regulator as 'Universal" (part #2222 I think).
Cheers

[dropitlikeitshot]

i dont think the talon turbo fits the xr2 manifold