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fowljesse: "....make circles, or half circles on it."
My thoughts exactly. "engine turned" they call that texture.


If you get stuck take a picture of the offending plugs. My whole harness is labeled.

wow that patern is awesome! I remember not long ago when my car was in that many pieces! If I cant figure it out in a reasonable amount of time I will do that. I think a lot of the plugs without homes are related to the auto trans stuff. I got the reverse light one plugged in but the neutral safety and the speedo must be different cause I cant find plugs for em. Gonna check my auto trans outside and look for the plug ins there.

Next on my list:
-figure out rest of wiring
-reroute coolant lines(not using an egr) Anyone got a pic or drawing of that?
-figure out what to do with all the egr related sensors. I know I can leave them plugged to the harness to stop the CEL from going on, but is it just the 2 egr solenoids? what do i do with the boost sensor and the plug for the egr itself? I undestan the capping of all the vac lines and the block off(already installed), just not sure about the electrical aspect. Any insight?
-mount battery box permenatly and hook up the battery
-clean and mount starter
-waiting for my washer bottle, the I can plum that and hook up the rest of the p/s stuff
-re-loom, re-loom, re-loom

For the EGR coolant line:

With the egr connected, theres a tube that runs from your cyl head to the egr, and then from the egr to the TB (IAC).

What you want to do, to bypass the egr, is just get a longer piece of tube and connect it from the cyl head to the IAC. Done.

I left my coolant lines connected since it wont harm anything. From what I discovered, you will keep throwing codes if you delete the EGR unless you have the KL36 ECU (J-spec--> no EGR).

I also understand that you just leave the egr solenoids and sensor itself plugged in, you may not throw a CEL. I think Hector did this and didn't see a CEL. If the ecu is looking for it and it's not there, it will think something's wrong. If it's plugged in, it may not send the right signals back but it knows it's there. I haven't been able to start my car yet to test this but it's from what I read.

cool, so all I have to do is run the coolant from the block to the TB hopefully leaving the sensors and egr plugged in it will run properly. I have a KL03, so worst case I can just get it chipped. thanks

Man I am so close to buttoning this thing up and doing a first start. IM is on, all hoses except rad and fuel rail, starter is on, accelerator cable done, vac lines almost done, re-loom almost done... IE, I am almost done! Pics by friday!

Friday? you're making us wait THAT long? I might die!

Oh, and I'm glad my parts can go to the car I wanted to buy to begin with, lmao! If you need any other misc stuff, I might be able to help out.

Glad to see its coming along nicely, Jay!

I might try and sneek a few pics on tonight after work before my GF comes over just for u Savin, lol.

There is no plug on the car side for the neutral safety switch if you're using the auto wiring harness. In your pics I saw you have the speed sensor sitting outside the tranny. The neutral safety isn't required for startup and won't throw a code as you still have the clutch cancel switch. If you have anymore electrical problems, Dali and I have had more cars apart then anyone and can help with the wiring inside and out. Looking good!!

cool, glad theres some people who know whats up. Hope to be working on that on friday. Im freakin psyched, but everyday when i work on it I find one stupid thing i forgot to buy(a clamp, a hose, a bolt, or whatever) Today I forgot to grab washer hose and metric line for my clutch slave. Taking my j/y radiator into a radiator shop to get flushed out, flow checked, and fins straightened.

Lovin the work, but I'm anxious to see your pics!!! Good luck on your first start up.

ive been wanting to post pics but theres really not that much visual progress going on. Clutch lines are ran but I CANT SEEM TO GET THE DAMN CLUTCH TO BLEED OUT!!! Theres a big bubble between the resivoir and the clutch master and I cant get it out for some reason. I have also gotten all the linkages hooked up and the shifter is mounted. Also the CAI is polished up and mocked up, just gotta make a few brackets. I took the hatch off(gonna take it in for tint and paint the inside and seems on the body) and started the battery relocation and emergency shut-off( I was trying to mount it in the taillight, but it cracked when i was cutting it, grrr!) I think it will still work. Made the mount for the battery box strap, still need to make a mount for my amp and recover my sub box. wires are all ran for that stuff. Need to get some ground cable and ground the motor, trans, etc. Still a bit of re-looming in the engine compartment. The only big purchases I need to make are axles and a battery. Progress is slow and steady, just always run into another little thing I need to fab, or a bolt I need to buy. Its the nature of the beast I guess. Pics soon

When bleeding the clutch having two ppl is easier. I make Dali sit in the car and pump the clutch pedal until his leg falls off!!! Leave the bleeder screw open on the slave cylinder on the tranny when pumping, I'll be easier. Then when fluid starts comming out, you can close and pump and hold like regular. Make sure that you keep topping off the brake fluid as the clutch only pulls fluid from the back side of the resivoir. So you don't get brake fluid all over the car and your floor, I use an old pop bottle with a piece of clear vaccum hose comming from a hole in the bottle lid to the bleeder screw. This allows you to see the amount or air/fluid comming from the cylinder, as well as catch the overflow. You can also use this technique for the brakes. If the cylinder has been emptied during swap, it can take along time to pump the air through.


Tyler

thanks man. This is what I have been doing. No fluid will come out though. It never get past the clutch master. The pedal never gets hard. I think I have to prime the clutch master or something. I hav tried gravity bleeding, and even forcing fluid up and down stream with a giant sirynge. any ideas?

With the bleeder screw open the pedal will never get hard. You'll have to pump for at least 3 min before you'll get fluid to come out if the whole line has been emptied. The only other thing I could suggest that has worked for us in the past is when the pedal is being pumped, take the piston that pushes on the throw out bearing arm and push it back towards the inside of the cylinder. For me, that has helped in the past. Sometimes it seems to take forever, then all of a sudden, it'll work. Hope this helps.


Tyler

every little bit helps. thanx, i will try it