Project O-Ren - Now road worthy!

[MrMazda92]

Fair enough, now THAT is a reason I can respect! DIY forever, it's always more fun if you have the time and a daily driver to get around.

[Beccabob593]

Hey guys, in the middle of removing my transaxle, and can't get the two driver's side bolts out that hold on the tranverse member. Had to use a 2 foot breaker bar to turn them. The more I turned them to loosen them, the tighter they got. The front bolt's housing has broken and now the bolt just wiggles around. The other bolt was also getting tighter with the breaker bar so I stopped before I broke it too.

Does anyone have any special tricks to getting this off, because obviously I can't drop the tranaxle with the cross member still installed.

[MrMazda92]

Ouch... You should have used an impact gun... If it were me, I'd drill them out, tap new threads, and use a larger bolt to replace it later on.

[bbunkerc397]

Use a torch to heat them up red hot and they will come out with impact gun.

[Beccabob593]

Something we failed to mention in our previous post was that after removing the intermediate shaft, we tried rotating it by hand and noticed considerable resistance in the bearing assembly. After closer examination, it was clear that the bearing was destroyed; multiple ball bearings were missing, and the inner races were lined with tiny shards of crushed up bearings. Shaking the assembly created a snowstorm of flakes. We removed the bearing carrier from the axle, as well as the end cap:


Before we go any further, we want to eliminate this as a potential suspect, which at this point, looks like it's going to be the most likely culprit.

This of course doesn't rule out the possibility of misaligned carrier gears.

[atx_mx3]

Something we failed to mention in our previous post was that after removing the intermediate shaft, we tried rotating it by hand and noticed considerable resistance in the bearing assembly. After closer examination, it was clear that the bearing was destroyed; multiple ball bearings were missing, and the inner races were lined with tiny shards of crushed up bearings. Shaking the assembly created a snowstorm of flakes. We removed the bearing carrier from the axle, as well as the end cap:


Before we go any further, we want to eliminate this as a potential suspect, which at this point, looks like it's going to be the most likely culprit.

This of course doesn't rule out the possibility of misaligned carrier gears.

Fun Fun. At least you found a problem....

[Beccabob593]

Ok guys, need some help here before I become the one blowing a gasket.

Last weekend, I ordered from theautopartsshop.com what they had listed as "INTERMEDIATE SHAFT BEARING." (Part No. TM306L)

Today, the part arrives and I notice that it's considerably heavier than the old one. When I try to install it in the housing, I realize that the bearing is MUCH bigger, and is in fact not the right part.

So after spending the afternoon on the phone with local parts stores, I get no where other than "it's a dealer only part."

I call Mazda, and their parts guy is out.

I get home and decide to Google the part number, and turns out it's an OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING for the damned transmission!!!

Does ANYONE know what the correct part no is for this?!! And where I can get it??

[davmac]

I couldn't find cross reference to aftermarket parts but here are the Mazda part numbers:

Carrier bearing:
9960682064
Dust shield (wheel side)
G56025742
Dust shield (tranny side)
G56025744

I'm betting those are pressed into the carrier bracket and held by a retaining ring.

From an online Mazda parts dealer (assuming you can still get these) it would cost about $50 before shipping and tax. You can use the part numbers over at mazda-parts. You can also order and see parts diagrams that I used to get the part numbers over at jimellismazdaparts.

edit: If you haven't already go put a post in the WTB section. You might do the same at a couple of related forums. A part out or salvage yard may offer a cheap usable part to get you back on the road.

[Beccabob593]

Thanks, we got it worked out. Becca was able to find an online book listing of every OEM Mazda part number for the MX-3.

For future reference though to ALL MX-3, MX-6 and Probe GT owners:

If you choose to buy a replacement INTERMEDIATE SHAFT BEARING from a website, make sure they are not selling you part # TM306L.
This is an OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING for the transmission, and IS NOT the same as an Intermdiate shaft (or half shaft) bearing. Two sites that I've noticed having #TM306L listed as an "Intermediate Shaft Bearing" are:
www.theautopartsshop.com
www.partsgeek.com

newegg.com has it listed correctly.

As you said, the correct OEM number for the ISB is 9960-68-2064. (Although you mistakenly called it a "carrier bearing." This is also incorrect. Carrier bearings are the two conical bearings pressed on the ends of your differential. "Carrier" is the technical name for what people commonly call the "differential"

If you go to any local parts store, just give them this number. If you ask them to look under your vehicle, it will tell them it's a "dealer-only part."

Mazda sells the bearings, but at $50 - $60.

Advance Auto: $21.

[Beccabob593]

OK, so finally got the correct bearing this morning, and Becca and I spent the day turning wrenches and busting knuckles getting the MX back together.

Once everything was installed except the wheels, we did a "on jackstands" test of the drivetrain in motion.

The loud vibration was gone, only the front brakes were dragging a bit. So we re-mounted the wheels and took it for a test drive.

Much to our dismay, the vibration IS STILL THERE!!!!!! It's not quite as loud, but very noticeable.

So,

- Both CV axles have been replaced.
- Intermediate Shaft Bearing has been replaced.
- Front tires have been re-balanced.
- Car has brake fluid. (but E-brake light stays on. Could this indicate a brake system fault?)
- Car has fresh tranny fluid.
- Looked through diff, gears did NOT appear to be mis-aligned.
- Brake pads are GOOD.
- Brake rotors are GOOD.

WHAT GIVES???!!!

[kulluminati777]

WOW

Im no MX3 guru but what condition are the Lower control arm bushings in? As old as the car is Maybe they are really worn. or maybe the balljoints arm in bad shape?

[Sleeper6]

Question for you, what speeds do you get the vibrations the most? is it a consistant range or a gradual increase. Also when the tires where balanced did they do a roadforce test?

[Beccabob593]

The sound is consistent with the speed of the car. It isn't noticeable until 15 MPH, but above that the frequency of the "bumping" increases with car speed.

We took it down the road at 55-60 MPH today, and when doing a "swerve" test, the bumping becomes a loud knocking when turning LEFT. When turning RIGHT, it gets less violent and much quieter.

To me, this puts it beyond dispute; either the differential gears are minutely misaligned, or we have a bad carrier bearing. That would explain why the sound changes when the car is turning; when turning LEFT, the right wheel spins faster than the left, and weight is shifted to the right axle.

In either case, the transaxle will need to be removed and torn down.

[Beccabob593]

WOW

Im no MX3 guru but what condition are the Lower control arm bushings in? As old as the car is Maybe they are really worn. or maybe the balljoints arm in bad shape?

Btw, we've done a couple of tests with the wheels off the ground and the brake assemblies removed - the sound is still there, and much more violent without weight on the axles.

[MrMazda92]

Does the car feel almost like it's bouncing up and down when you drive? Less of a "bounce" and more of a vibration as you reach freeway speeds?