Vecia's 1994 MX-3: UPDATE - 8/06/12 New Picture!

[youdirtyfox]

Nice job mate, looks great. If it where me doing that whilst I was there I would also fill in that little recess on the top of the bumper
as it makes such a big difference looks wise not having that there> fully smoothed ftw

[WhiteFinish]

Looks good, are you also going to flush the handle part of the rear bumper?

[Vecia]

Nice job mate, looks great. If it where me doing that whilst I was there I would also fill in that little recess on the top of the bumper
as it makes such a big difference looks wise not having that there> fully smoothed ftw

Looks good, are you also going to flush the handle part of the rear bumper?

Hmm... thats a good idea. I didn't think of that... I'm going to finish out the hatch first because I have a few other spots on the bumper to finish out with fiberglass so yeah, I may do that. Thanks for the suggestion youdirtyfox. Dig your turbo project by the way.

Nice shave job on the hatch.

Thanks man!

[Vecia]

Prepping for paint today. 3 coats of primer to start. Will wait a few hours then wet sand with 600 grit to 1500. will post again after that when I start the base coats. Will most likely do about 4 to 5 coats of base, wet sand a few times in between coats and then, once it's set, start my clear coats. Be back in a few hours.

[DeadMaker]

Looking forward to see your work...

[Vecia]

Base coats started. This is the second coat after wet sanding with 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper. An area such as the large potion where the key hole used to be you would want to use a sanding block but the portions where the hatch curves near the ends you would want to use your fingertips very lightly making sure to hug the curves evenly. Using a block on these parts may cause the paint to wear thin at the bends. just be careful to distribute your weight evenly.

[Vecia]

The light orange peel you see will be wet sanded out before we apply the clear. So don't panic if you see a bit of orange peel in your work. Remember, I'm working outside in the elements so it's to be expected. Once we are done with the base coats, we will let the 1500 wet sand do the rest of the work getting our surface smooth as a baby's rear. Pardon the southern expression.

[DeadMaker]

The orange peel is too much imo..
Are you using spay gun?Maybe you put too much air pressure?
Btw by wet sanding the base coat wouldn't make it look dull?

[Vecia]

I'm doing this with a rattle can. By the way, here is the finished product... Don't mind the bumper... Its the next project... Oh, and one more thing... Orange peel is just about gone... Could be magic...

Any imperfection in the finish will be removed with compound and a buffer... Key note though, you have to wait about 48 hours for the clear to cure before attempting to compound the finish. Check out some of the previous posts in this work log for some of my other attempts at finished color with rattle cans... Thanks for looking.

[Vecia]

One more thing, I am in no way an expert in body work or paint. My skill extends only to the spray can as a temp fix. Compound usually does all of my work for me once the clear is set. One fact I do know for sure; any amount of Orange Peel can be removed by someone aced in a buffer. I'll post more pics of the hatch once I've mirrored it out in a few days.

[DeadMaker]

Looks very good..Now you must wait some days for the clear coat to become hardener.
Weird with the orange peel..lol
Which clear coat you used?

[Vecia]

The orange peel is too much imo..
Are you using spay gun?Maybe you put too much air pressure?
Btw by wet sanding the base coat wouldn't make it look dull?

As stated above, Orange Peel can be removed after the clear is set by buffing it out with a medium cut compound. I'm in no way an expert but it is the method that I have found to work for me. Others may have better or unique ways of attaining their own finish that they love. This is all straight spray cans. I use Duplicolor because the Ford SQ is damn near a perfect match for my color. Fade, weather damage, age, etc. all play a factor though and it may not match what you are looking for. I would test it in an inconspicuous place first before going all out, like the inside of a door or something.

As far as wet sanding the base; to achieve the best results, you definitely want to wet sand the base color in between coats. of course it dulls the color but you get your primary gloss from clear coats, not the base color. At least, that's what I have learned from spray cans. actual booth painting I am sure is different. Rattle cans plain and simple suck no matter how you apply it but if you are looking for the best result for such a quick and temp fix, I suggest wet sanding in between base coats to eliminate any contamination from outside elements, (i.e. dust, pollen, micro-bugs and so on.)

Like I said, this is what works for me. Do a google search, watch youtube videos and check out the duplicolor website. They have some awesome walk throughs on there as well. You will find the best method that works for you. Not every method will work for everyone but eventually you find something that simply works and you wont look back. Thanks!

[Vecia]

Looks very good..Now you must wait some days for the clear coat to become hardener.
Weird with the orange peel..lol
Which clear coat you used?

I use the Duplicolor Clear. If you use Duplicolor, I suggest using all of the same brand except the primer. I use Rustoleum Primer.

[AaronTietje]

The finish really looks good and the rs spoiler is a perfect look for your car.

[Vecia]

The finish really looks good and the rs spoiler is a perfect look for your car.

Thanks a lot man! Nothing compared to that monster you have growing in your garage but hopefully my parts car will disappear into it's own cocoon and hatch into something amazing. You guys doing these full, off-the-frame (or damn near) restorations are my inspiration full bore. Keep it coming man. I'm riding on y'alls coat tails!