[wtb] Used turbo stuff avail for B6DE MX-3 1.6 RS base

[specialtyneed]

RobMinhas,
What is in a user ID other that it was not already taken? And why does it bear on relevancy?

There a lots of bright people here and some just regular guys with invaluable experience and a few arrogant and some flamers who do not really know much other than a strong opinion, like almost every where else. This world has all kinds with different strengths and weaknesses each and all no more evaluable in the end than another and we are all better off trying to help each other in areas where we need to learn. How we act what we do today is what makes the difference. It does not take a smarter guy to figure out a new widget just a determined, consistent and logical one. I choose today to try to help others when I can. Can not speak for anyone else, but this post is not helping me get the project done.... unless you want to help. I am working with a older guy and have ability to consult many (6) thousands in person some with more experience and am humble enough to defer to that. Questioning things or suggestions to get at the root reasons and the engineering design limits has it wisdom mistake prevention.

[RobMinhas]

SpecialtyNeed,
My apologies for not contributing to the discussion at hand, I'm not nearly as knowledgable as Josh in discussing forced induction, especially a more sophisticated setup as you are attempting. This forum is much more casual then most other car forums and theres a lot of off topic and irrelevant banter throughout it. I commented on your user ID being relevant because it is very apparent that for what you're building or attempting to build that you will have specialty needs.
Your approach is quite different then anyone else's on this board, and for that I commend you. I'll be following this build closely as you post more and if it's what you like, unless my post would specifically help you I'll refrain from posting.

[specialtyneed]

Looks like $475-500 for good rods, gaskets and CRS valves on ebay. Then machine work/seats. Lower frt and main crank seals not reqd but if I am going this far might as well go all the way. Rings if I get busy or have the moolah.

$62 entire valve set chrome crs alloy ex
$251 good 4340 Origin racing rods & bolts
$43 head gasket set
$19 oil pan gasket
$10 rear main seal kit
$8.08 Gates KS14477 front main crank seal

$10.16 Is this seal needed? Timken 710355 Front Crankshaft Seal? here:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timken-710355-F ... ce&vxp=mtr

$42 main bearings & rod bearings & thrust set
$42 piston rings
=
$487.24 after math and research. My guess at top was very close prior to looking it all up.
+$120 machine work min
=$607.24
+$110 ETD turbo TD04 minimalist amount no inter and crs ebay crs mani
=$717.24
+ 170 min for down pipe and intake pipe matls inc small roll crs mig wire and mig gas bottle exchange
=857.24
and that does not include anything specific to turbo like mount gasket
Nearly a grand and its still not that fast This is why I do not want to go here. I have 4 kids/ young adults to feed and a wife. I must try to limit this to already discussed above minimum approach my use should allow getting away with it. I know shaving things with a razor blade thinly here but that is what I am good at.

Guys who have been through this engine what else am I missing req'd or usually needed? Other than esthetics like the popular powder or flashy high temp paint on the valve cover which I may do as its very cheap and easy and adds a lot under hood.

[specialtyneed]

Trying to put a most likely available junk/salvage yard parts/cross ref list together for the domestic market turbo only engines exhaust manifold that bolt up to MX-3 1.6L DOHC BD-DE:
Please correct any mistakes/ omissions. Info from Wiki pages. Likely impossible to find domestically in blue.

ALL 1.6L & 1.8L I4 (4 cyl) DOHC Mazda mfd turbo only engines codes:
BP-T, B6-T, BPD-T. (B6-ZE ?)

BP-ZE RS (? will this mani work ?):
1989-1993 Maxda MX5/Miata converted to BBR like below OEM(?):
1994 MX-5/Miata BBR (Brodie Britain Racing likely rare here) OEM and Aftmkt Turbo & other year Refurbs

B6-T 1.6:
1985-1989 Mazda Familia (323?) BFMR/BFMP (turbo) JDM
1985-1989 (or 1990?) Ford Laser TX3 turbo & 4WD KE model platform is ths JDM also?
1991-1994 Mercury Capri XR2


BP-T 1.8:
1989-1994 Mazda Familia (323?) GT-X (JDM) 4WD
1989-1994 Ford Laser TX3 turbo (Australia)
1989-1995 Ford Laser GT-X USD Turbo & Turbo-4WD
1989-1998 Mazda MX-5 S/Miata S (MazdaSpeed) (limited #'s unknown see BBR BP-ZE above)

BPD-T 1.8:
1992-1993 Mazda Familia (323) GR-R GT-Ae (JDM) 4WD

This is the factory ECU and Injector setup for BP-T:
1989-1994 Familia and Laser Turbo
330 cc blacktop injectors (high impedance). The standard BPT ecu had a boost cut at 14.7psi (calculated based on the air flow).

[specialtyneed]

Today confirmed the model turbos we have:

Model VF28601
Serial RHB5 9411 (2nd set 4 or 5 #'s hard to read)
Parts 144(7) or (1) 2AA002(A) (unsure about these numbers/ letters)

Model VF28408
Serial RHB5 9440A (hard to read also)
Parts 144(0)2AA00(2) or (8)

2 Q's:
Need to know source you guys use for oil press.
Is everyone using oil filter base plate sandwich adapters?

I will need to install oil pan return line bung fitting also.

Found lots of gaskets and ex flange down pipe dims already.

And now the biggie. These are water cooled turbos. Anyone put one on the MX-3 like this?
Has anyone found easiest way to hookup coolant lines and where did you get the kit/parts ?

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

I am a big fan of the oil restriction. Page 3 of my worklog will have the oil feed and drain info. Including all the fittings required.

http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 4&start=30

[specialtyneed]

RS_OBD'oh_2
Thanks a bunch. I saw your log before in a search. Just hard to scroll all of it with all the really great pics through the many pages. I get the rest of the fittings. 1 Q though below. Now that I know whet I am looking at I see the supply line fitting assy at top rear near drivers end of rear cam at the horizontal journal that looks like it goes over to the disty also.

Would that be the 1.5 mm oil restrictor like in this eBay listing?
Except this ebay one is a banjo fitting (restrictor 1.5 mm) with 1/8 npt male end.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-Feed- ... 4c&vxp=mtr

We took the worst turbo mostly apart tonight with the broken impeller shaft and missing hot section end. The cold impeller is useable just needs a tiny bit of blending on the ends of longest blades. Still have to make a slide hammer adapter to pull out round cold insert section at the area of three tiny flush screws. Mike (my friend) thinks this is a 5th turbo we can use for parts and tweaking and play with and modify the external wastegate 7.5 lb pull off assy. to get up to twice that at the max on the spring at full travel.

[Josh]

If you are not dead set on a B6DE I would recommend swapping it out to a N/A BP. They are more available and the OE cast turbo manifolds are more plentiful and a lot more durable. the B6T OE turbo manifold tends to always crack right down the center from a poorly places O2 sensor bung.

On the B6 for your oil feed you just need to tap into the oil pressure sending sensor on the rear of the motor. then for the return try and drill your oil pan as high up as possible in the pan. I used a half inch brass hose fitting with rubber O rings and a nut on the back side when I did mine. I never had an issue.

The VF28 should be nice! I think if you tune it properly there should be no reason to see 20PSI

Looks like your JY info is correct. You may be better off searching for a Mercury Capri if you decide to stick with the B6. Now the heads are different from the B6 - B6T to the B6DE. intakes will not swap but exhaust manifolds will. if you find a turbo exhaust manifold for the B6 you will notice the ports are about 1'' narrower than the DE. it is worth wile to port them out. the heads are not really swapable with out work either, the DE has 2 extra oil ports on the exhaust side of the engine the standard B6 or B6T does not. they would have to be capped off.

BP is the easier route