Possible oxygen sensor and Catalytic converter problem.

[RobMinhas]

To be honest, I think you'll be able to get an after market CAI for cheaper than a good condition OE intake.

I do believe there are some OE's in the WTB section.

You could probably hit up Mopac (off 16 ave NW) they could probably get you something that will work. There is a year of prelude (??) that will work. And I believe a KL 3 nipple intake will work (probe or mx6). Won't get the coolest air as it's a short system.

Just make sure that you get the correct couplers to mate to the intake manifold and MAF.

How much do you think it'd run me if i got Mopac to do it? I've been considering doing hoodzys integra intake mod and I now have even more reason to do it haha

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

mopac is not cheap.
Were I in your exact position, I would duct tape the pipe for now and order a cheap kit on ebay.

This is similar to what I am using for the turbo intake... but I strongly belive that it would be a great fit to the stock intake position.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1993-1997-Ford-P ... 336d052a38

Found a great prelude shorty that should fit:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Honda-Prelude-Si ... 5647600692

Keep in mind that with both of these kits you may need extra couplers for your MAF connections to the pipe and filter.

Good luck

[RobMinhas]

I'll keep those in mind, I'm gonna try to see what I can work up with some of my buddies and then maybe I'll go for a kit.

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

I've had 3 different intakes on my RS. First was the prelude kit I had probably 10 years ago. Got it at a local shop for around $100. Then built one out of steel and weld in bungs for the fittings. That one cost more and was probably not as good as the original.

To be perfectly honest, I don't think you'll be able to do it cheaper than using the second link I posted. I may have an extra no name filter in my garage as well, that I would give away. Should still be new in the box if I didn't toss it.

Another option would be to buy a mandrel bend pipe from mopac, couplers and Vibrant makes a cool bung system. All you have to do is drill into the pipe and it comes with a rubber grommet and metal fitting that you can simply press into the hole. With the 3 fittings, mandrel pipe and 3 couplers, you'll probably be around the $100-150 mark. Make sure you have an angle grinder or chop saw with a metal disk. A good stepper bit would also be a great item to have on hand to get the proper hole size.

[Evo_Spec]

I've had 3 different intakes on my RS. First was the prelude kit I had probably 10 years ago. Got it at a local shop for around $100. Then built one out of steel and weld in bungs for the fittings. That one cost more and was probably not as good as the original.

RS_ actually gave the steel one he mentioned to me (thanks again for that =D) and i can pass it to you since i went turbo and don't need it anymore but i think you'll need some couplers, i'll show it to you when you come over tomorrow

[RobMinhas]

I've had 3 different intakes on my RS. First was the prelude kit I had probably 10 years ago. Got it at a local shop for around $100. Then built one out of steel and weld in bungs for the fittings. That one cost more and was probably not as good as the original.

RS_ actually gave the steel one he mentioned to me (thanks again for that =D) and i can pass it to you since i went turbo and don't need it anymore but i think you'll need some couplers, i'll show it to you when you come over tomorrow

Sure thing, thanks a lot man!

[Mi|<E]

Failing that I have more mazda parts than I know what to do with and will
be back home next week. Im pretty sure I have my B6 stock intake.

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

there's your best option

[Evo_Spec]

Failing that I have more mazda parts than I know what to do with and will
be back home next week. Im pretty sure I have my B6 stock intake.

i need g series swap =D

[RobMinhas]

Failing that I have more mazda parts than I know what to do with and will
be back home next week. Im pretty sure I have my B6 stock intake.

You sir are great, I appreciate the generosity, and if I can't get anything else to work out I"ll surely take you up on that offer.

I swear this site is full of great people, you guys have all helped me a lot in the last few days.

[RobMinhas]

Failing that I have more mazda parts than I know what to do with and will
be back home next week. Im pretty sure I have my B6 stock intake.

Hey man, if you've got the B6 stock intake I need and you don't need it and it's in good shape I'd like to take it off your hands if you're willing to sell it.

[RobMinhas]

Okay fellas, I've got some updates for you here.

Okay, welcome here.

The idle surging is very common. Start by taking off the accordion intake tube and examining it thoroughly for any hairline cracks. Any intake leaks after the air flow meter will cause the idle to be unsteady, and the milage to drop.

I've taken care of this by installing an intake, it's actually pretty close to operation like a cold air intake as it has a lot of room and a lot of fresh air coming from underneath the car.

A little more has been done to tweak it.

-The hose that connects your brake booster to your intake manifold - disconnect it from the booster, it should be quite difficult, and when it comes, make a loud hiss as air enters the booster. If it doesn't hiss, put the hose back on, and take it off the manifold end this time, and suck on it. It should hold vacuum. If it does not, your booster (or the hose) may be defective, causing an intake leak again.

THis is the next step, and I can't do anything right now because of how freaking cold it is out. My garage isn't insulated so it'll be like working on a car in -30. I really regret not doing this sooner.

-The belt squeaking is the alternator belt, this is fairly common. Check the voltage across the battery terminals at idle, it should be 14.4V. If it is closer to 12V, your alternator is tired and could use a rebuild. An alternator rebuilding shop should do this for around $100. You could also purchase a new one for more than that.

You were dead on here, it actually broke while driving but Evo_Spec saved the day and did some roadside assistance.

-Remove the distributor cap and inspect the cap and rotor for oxidization (crusty white build up). For free you can scratch any of it off, but the metal itself looses its conductivity as it carries current for long times (like 100k km) and could probably be replaced.

-You should set your ignition timing using a timing light. You might be able to rent or borrow one. At the same time you should adjust the idle, and the TPS. There are FAQ's on this in the FAQ section.

-You can remove your coolant sensor and check it using a pot of boiling water, a thermometer, and an ohmmeter (multimeter). The engine relies heavily on this sensor, and if its not in spec it won't ever be running optimally.

I haven't done any of these ones here yet but I will once it gets warmer.

[SuperK]

good lord do you live on the moon? cuzz your car is covered in moondust!
(not to be confused with moonwax/mooneggs/moonanything else)

[RobMinhas]

good lord do you live on the moon? cuzz your car is covered in moondust!
(not to be confused with moonwax/mooneggs/moonanything else)

Hahah I know, no one has ever cleaned my engine bay of the old owners and I've been trying to clean it up the best I can with it begin winter and all. I've made small improvements, heres a bad pic: