Quick Question (VRIS) Related

[Mr.mx-3]

OK I have did a little searching and couldn't find the answer to my question I just got a KL31 ecu about 2 days ago installed it and drove it home I can feel the VRIS kicking in on the second stage around 4500-5000 rpm but no where else so today I went outside and played with my car for a little bit and noticed that changing the ecus from the K8 I could see the accuators working when I reved it but not so with the KL31 nothing is moving is there anything I need to check or can someone tell me what maybe the problem?

[Ryan]

VRIS is 12% magic.

It appears to be load dependent in some cases, so it won't do it if you're bilpping the throttle by hand...

You shouldn't FEEL VRIS at all, but in all of the VRIS equipped cars I've driven I can feel the powerband come on around 4.5.



Do the papertest.


rip two little squares of paper, about 1" x 1".

lift the actual VRIS actuator by hand, and put the paper in so when you release it it pinches it in place. Do this with both.

Go for a rip to work or the gas station.

Check to see if they're still there.

If they're both gone, you're good.

[MrMazda92]

VRIS is 12% magic.

It appears to be load dependent in some cases, so it won't do it if you're bilpping the throttle by hand...

I can see both open/close when I turn the linkage under the hood, is this not normal? :/ They open at the right RPMs I might add...

You shouldn't FEEL VRIS at all, but in all of the VRIS equipped cars I've driven I can feel the powerband come on around 4.5.

I've seen mention of feeling it "kick" in before on a few threads, I believe MoonEggs was discussing it with you, actually... If it's "kicking", you're using the wrong ecu for your manifold; At least that's what your guys' conclusion was in that thread.

[Ryan]

Oh, the other thing:

Start car to build vac in the VRIS chambers.

Turn your car off, key out.

Put into DIAG mode.

go stand and look under hood, get friend to switch key to "ON".

both VRIS valves should pop momentarily as the system does its self check. one two, close together.

[Daninski]

I could feel a little ummph in my stock 95 GS at around 4200rpm and it was tuned up and ran nice. I don't believe the notion that you shouldn't feel the VRIS at all. Can anyone show me where that's written in any manual. Thanks

[Pritchett]

Ya same here, my 93 GS ran good besides burning gobs of oil and even tho both VRIS worked great, I felt a kick around 4200-4500rpm's as well.

[MrMazda92]

Maybe it's in the definition... I feel the increase in power at the same range you guys mention, I just never thought of it as a kick; I always assumed that would be a negative thing

[DeadMaker]

I don't feel any kick around 4500-5000 rpm..Should i worry about it?The manual says it operates in around 4750..
I think i will make some test tomorrow...

[Daninski]

I don't feel any kick around 4500-5000 rpm..Should i worry about it?The manual says it operates in around 4750..
I think i will make some test tomorrow...

Bend over, you'll feel a kick
I could feel an increase in pulling power from the engine around 4200rpm. Ya check your VRIS.

[Mr.mx-3]

WIll do I can tell you that when the car was stock I could feel a little kick as the vris opened and the motor seemed to rev. up and pull harder at the points when it engauged. With all of the work and money around about $6,000 in motor and parts alone I've put in this thing I would expect a hell of alot more than just a little jolt at 4500 RPM. I will admit the car runs a hell of alot smoother with the KL31 it doesn't bog down in the lower rpm range like the K8 ecu did. I do know I need to install the melinnia alt. cuz it's straining the hell out of that little K8 alt I had to use to get it going and back home I really wanted to use the alt. for the ZE but I didn't have the damn plug for it at the time.Also I've got to drill and tap a hole for that second coolant temp. sensor damn fans run pretty much all the time I was hopeing the KL31 Ecu would eleminate the need for that but it just made both the fans run insted of the one. I dunno if that has anything to do with the problem or not all this electrical/comp. thing is all new to me. and for some reason I can't get the damn cruise control to work I found a vac. port on the back of the intake and connected the hose to it and thought I was good to go I took it out for a drive and tried it and nothing I'm thinking I've got some vac lines crossed up some where I got the vac diagram from here and I looked like a monkey f---ing a football trying to understand what the hell I was reading. Is there anywhere on the site where I can get an accual pic. of someones car with the correct vac routing? Ever since I installed the ZE when I turn off the motor my brake pedal gets hard and comes up I know eventually it will do that after you hit the brake a couple of times with it off but I have never had one do that as soon as I turn the key off with my foot on the brake it's like it's loosing vac as soon as the key is turned off. It still idles a little rough like it's missing a little and sounds that way I dunno if it's the combo of the 88 duro motor mounts and the pacesetter exhaust that's making it sound and feel ilke I've got a slight miss at idle or if it's accually missing. Also how am I supposed to put the car in diag. mode with the KL31 ECU? I tried the normal 10 and ground and nothing seemed to happen. Anyway I'm babbling I'll check this out tomorrow any help on these matters would be of great appreciation

[cWs306]

my thought on this. dunno if its gunna help but my brake pedal also goes hard as soon as i shut the car off too ever since i did my ze swap. thats normal i think.. cousins did it too. and i also have the KL36 ecu with my ZE and pacesetter headers but i got AWR mounts. i get a little kick at about 3500-4000 from my vris's and i also sound like i got a little bit of a miss fire at idle. but my cousin said that its like that because of the headers. its just the sound it gives off. like a rumble. mini v8?

[Mr.mx-3]

LOL cool it kinda does sound that way like a V8 with a small cam in it I guess that's why everybody says they sound like s---. Thanks well at least now I know it's not missing that eases my mind a little Thanks. Yea I have the AWR 88 duro motor mounts and all types of goodies as well I tried to spare no expence on this because I wanted a sleeper to run with the big boys. But as it seems things are not working out exactly as planned. I'm not feeling anything (now don't get me wrong it's not dragging a-- it just doesn't have that super small turbo feel to it) at all untill 4500 or so RPM. Gonna try the paper test tomorrow. OH yea I almost forgot when I got the ZE one of the Vris Accuators was broke off at the tips (it's got those damned plastic ones) I went to the junk yard and got a metal one off a mellinia and put that one on in it's place. Hopefully that hasn't screwed up anything.

[cWs306]

haha yaah exactly. and with open headers.. its even more like a itty bitty v8 . and no that shouldnt effect anything since most of us use the millenia curved neck intake with its vris.

[davmac]

Ever since I installed the ZE when I turn off the motor my brake pedal gets hard and comes up I know eventually it will do that after you hit the brake a couple of times with it off but I have never had one do that as soon as I turn the key off with my foot on the brake it's like it's loosing vac as soon as the key is turned off.

Did you use a vacuum hose with check valve between the brake booster and IM - like OEM? If just a plain hose to the brake booster then that might be your problem. You can buy and add a check valve from auto parts store or grab a hose off a salvage yard car.

[davmac]

Also I've got to drill and tap a hole for that second coolant temp. sensor damn fans run pretty much all the time I was hopeing the KL31 Ecu would eleminate the need for that but it just made both the fans run insted of the one.

Yes – like 92 – 93 MX-3s the KL31 expects 3 temp senders. 2 (both 2 wire) can throw a diag code. Green 2 wire is used to control idle, black or gray 2 wire is used to control radiator fan. Both of these are monitored by the ECU diagnostics. The 3rd temp sender is 1 wire and connects to the instrument cluster. All 3 temp senders are mounted near the coolant fill neck at the front of the engine – tap anywhere near there should work. Search work logs for others who have tapped for their 2nd 2 wire sensor.