My air conditioner isnt working and it's 100 degrees out.

[Patass]

95 mazda mx-3
Who knows when it actually stopped working, but a family member was telling me that he doesnt think that the clutch for the air conditioner is kicking in when I turn it on. I made a video that came out pretty terrible trying to explain what's up. What do you suggest? I dont want to bring it to a shop because I'm going on a trip next week and I need to save cash. I would also LOVE to have my air conditioner working for this trip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpoexkcg-Fs

Thanks for any input

[mxmikey]

Check your 134A (the stuff that keeps it cold) pressure, and it supposed to be at about 25-30lbs on the low side (blue side) and see if it has pressure. If there is a leak or it doesn't have pressure the compressor will not turn on thus not engaging it, which is your symtom. It could be either one, but pressure is easier to check and cheaper to replace so that is where I would start.

[Patass]

thank alot! Do I need some sort of special pressure gage, or is there some readout on the car somewhere? Where am i looking? Sorry for the absolute noobishness of all this...

[mxmikey]

You can buy a nice guage set for about $40 and that has high and low pressure gauges. I wouldn't recommend touching the high side unless you know what you are doing or have someone who can show you. The easiest way is they make a can where it comes with the low pressure gauge on it $30, I am not sure where it attaches too on the 4 cylinder, but it will be on one of the metal ac lines. You can also get a reusable low pressure gauge that just stabs into the cans that you can buy the gauge is about $15 and so are the cans. One can should do the trick, a can and a half if you were 100% empty. If it is low though it may have a leak in the system which you would have to find and repair. Sometimes you can hear it from under the hood if it is a big one. Otherwise it will work for a few days and then will stop again.

[Patass]

I took it to advanced auto parts and an old work friend (from a different job) checked it out. The gauges were saying that it had a lot of pressure, and that it couldnt really take any more freon. Yet, the clutch still isnt kicking in. Any more suggestions?

[Daninski]

You can fool around all day and still have no A/C or you can have an A/C specialist check it for minimum expense then you have the answer. I can do A/C but take it to a shop that specializes in it. 15-20 mins later I have the problem nailed. Worth every dime I say.

[mxmikey]

The next step, if you choose to do it yourself, a shop would be easier, is it could either be a bad low pressure switch or a bad clutch, which if its the clutch it is easier to go to your local pick and pull, and grab another compressor. There is a wire running behind the pulley on the compressor, it is a power wire make sure you get the power wire and not the ground, on the V6 the ground goes to the top of the compressor while the positive goes under the pulley. If that is powered and turns on then the clutch/compressor are good. Then it is most likely a bad low pressure switch it could also bad switch in your dash or a few other various wiring issues.

[im2bad4ya]

I just got my AC done today, first time in 5 years my car has AC, anyways.........the compressor pulley will always spin no matter what. what you need to check is when the AC is on, if the center of the pulley spins, this is what pumps the freon through the AC system. if it spins without making any noises, then your compressor is ok. if it makes noises, the compressor clutch is shot and you have to replace the compressor.

[SuperK]

you can run a wire from the battery post to the compressor wire directly to test the clutch, if it clicks, then the clutch is fine.

The next step is to see if you're getting a signal from the ECU, there's troubleshooting flows you can go on the manual that explains the whole process. really, you test the compressor, and if it's good, great. You test the ECU, then theres a little thermo sensor on the evaporator box that needs to be tested. You'll also need to test the two relays on the top left corner of the engine compartment, and the little pressure switch on the HP side that comes out of the evap box.

it is a PAIN in the butt to test. but pull up the online manuals and go through the troubleshooting flows, it'll spell out the whole process for you.