92 RS Code 9 Help

[BlazeSquall]

A few months ago I purchased an 92 MTX MX3. The owner had bought the car from another guy with a few problems. Right before I bought it I checked around ( I love when people use the same usernames on dozens of sites ) and found his post here:

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I've searched a bit and found several others with code 9 problems. That's largely where I found the steps to diagnose my problem. Also the shop manual procedure and all data.

So I had a pretty good idea of what I was getting into. Found out a few things, such as the missing CEL bulb. Easy fix . I'm having the same trouble he was though. Basically I have a constant code 9. The car runs OK, gives a bit of a fuss when warm and a few cranks when it's below 40 degrees.

Anyway, I don't know why he complained that the ECU had the wrong pin out, it's fine. The connections had continuity to the sensor and back. Voltage from the blue write (2Q) is 2.5v as expected. The sensor seemed OK, but at a loss I went to replace it today. Old one came off fine, but the new one sheered right off when tightening. It wasn't past spec or anything.. just a cheap a-- sensor. My own fault. There's no chance of getting it out of there. At least I don't think so. I'm wondering if anyone thinks that just some automotive adhesive ( Recommendations welcome ) will work to hold the sensor and connector in place. Basically the sensor is in a hollow tube inside the metal. It just sits in some white paste. I think if I just glue down the connector it should work OK. If anyone has any other ideas I'm welcome to them.

Also, at this point I'm just going to re-run the wires to it. The blue wire comes straight from the ECU, the black/orange goes to ground. It seems to run in parallel to some other grounds. Can I just forgo that and run it to it's on ground? I know this question may seem trivial, but It was bothering me. For instance, I want to just run a new wire to the sensor from the ECU, and then directly to one of the grounding screws on the engine block. Will this be OK?

If the new wires don't work out, I guess all that's left is the ECU.

This is the last mechanical problem I need to sort out before I start making her pretty.

Thanks for reading.

[BlazeSquall]

At this point, I would settle for some tips on how to get the car to start when it's hot.

Right now, it'll start fine when hot, but if it dies while struggling to idle, it wont start until it's cold. It'll just crank and crank.

Very annoying.

Thoughts?

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Did you replace the water thermo-sensor?

Look near the injectors and you will see it. It's right between INJ 1 and 2.. a plug that goes down and in.

My car had that same code, replace the thermo-sensor, and then it was all better!

[BlazeSquall]

The new thermal sensor broke off inside the intake manifold. I cannot move it at all right now. Don't have the time. I was looking at just moving the sensor to the temp sender place next to the disty, but it's a different size.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

lol well that sensor is why your car reads that sensor. Is it the tip that moves freely? The whole thing is (I believe) 17MM.. if i remember right i used a 17MM with swivel to get it off.

You could also (if you wanted to go overboard and make it easier access) take the upper intake mani off (a few bolts on the top and it comes off), and then take off the fuel rail.... but yeah... that sensor is your problem.

[BlazeSquall]

Yeah I was looking to move it. It seems that I'll just have to replace the intake header there. Or at least remove it to get that plug out. The top of the sensor broke off... there's nothing to grip. It's a 19MM. I think the sender unit is a 17MM. Wont be able to do that anytime soon. I guess I can cobble some resistors together to emulate the correct output. That'll probably be the best short term solution.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Yeah I'm not sure how you'd do the resistor trick but if you can more power to ya!

And it does become a LOT easier when you take the upper intake mani and fuel rail bolts out.