Hi,,,
My 1993 Eunos 30x has a slight problem at the moment and i cant figure out whats wrong with it maybe you guys could help me as im trying to sell it but need this engine problem fixed first... When i drive it, it drives normally when its cold but as it starts to warm up it has this problem where its like shakes and jolts under about 3000 rpm but it seems to drive normal if i keep it above 3000rpm i have been told that it might be the pre ignition but i have no idea what it is. It also wont idle properly if i leave it idling for about 10 seconds it just stalls. It also does the shaking and jolting thing if u put the foot flat to the floor. I just cant work it out. I have have had new spark plugs and leads fitted to the car about 6 months ago.. Please help
Engine Problem
- Ryan
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Re: Engine Problem
check for vacuum leaks. The accordion tube just before the throttle body is a common place. use some sort of flammable spray or propane and spray it around there and wiggle the pipe and see if the idle jumps.
The next most common thing that causes problems like that is the distributor.
The next most common thing that causes problems like that is the distributor.
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Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
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- marcdh
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Re: Engine Problem
Would be inclined to agree with Ryan. Wrap your accordian section with duck/duct/gaffer tape all the way around if that shows symptoms. Check the other many vacuum hoses flying about too for loose ends, fatigue etc. Otherwise it's sounding like disty time, I've had both. Hope it's the first for you
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Re: Engine Problem
Alright cheers guys ill give it a go
Re: Engine Problem
I tried what you guys suggested and nothing worked??
Re: Engine Problem
When the car warms up, any cracks you might have in the intake system expand and unmetered air can get in.
Spray a gentle mist of starting fluid around the intake hose when the car is starting to warm up, see if it gets sucked in anywhere and the engine revs.
To check if it's pre-ignition, put in higher octane fuel and see if that makes any difference. Although if you had pre-ignition, you'd hear a pinging or knocking sound coming from the engine when you accelerate.
And yeah, might be a distributor. Could probably get away with just replacing the cap and the rotor.
Spray a gentle mist of starting fluid around the intake hose when the car is starting to warm up, see if it gets sucked in anywhere and the engine revs.
To check if it's pre-ignition, put in higher octane fuel and see if that makes any difference. Although if you had pre-ignition, you'd hear a pinging or knocking sound coming from the engine when you accelerate.
And yeah, might be a distributor. Could probably get away with just replacing the cap and the rotor.
Re: Engine Problem
Hi...Check the fuel pressure when cold and hot. if control pressure is too low when warm, it's a hard start. check the rest pressure. if it drops off in 5-10 mins, that's a hard start. rest pressure should last about 20-30 mins. pull the injectors out and see if they leak. if they're steel, they will. ferrari, mercedes, volvo, etc. went to brass injectors because the steel 1's rust and leak. if they leak, that's too much fuel and that's a hard start. and if the spark output is low from the ignition, that's a hard start. good luck, chuck.