High beam trouble

[mortenmorfar]

Hello
I have a problem with my high beam, it doesn't work when I press the arm forward on the steering wheel, but if I pull back it comes on.
When I pull it back I can hear a relay in the passenger side, so I tried to change them around but that didn't change anything, and it seems like the two relays are working.
I have also checked the combination switch, the wires in the manual doesn't match the ones on my car, but I can get continuity when I press the high beam switch forward, so I guess that's fine.

Does the high beam have another relay for the "always on" position ?

I asked the Mazda dealer if he could see where the high beam relay was located, but he couldn't the only thing he could do, was to hook the car up to a diagnostic thingy and then it would tell him where it was, but I don't really want to pay there crazy hour prices, just so he can tell me where it's located

[Ryan]

Stupid dealerships. Instead of trying to rip you off, they could just hand you a book.

http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[PATDIESEL]

your wires might not match colors, but the locations of the relays, connectors and usually the wire pins in the connectors are the same. Use the above linked repair manual to find the high beam wiring diagram and the wire map should be on the next page or two (if the online manual has the wiring diagrams). I do not use the online version since I have a full 93' set from Mazda and prefer the print set over the electronic.

[mortenmorfar]

Okay will have a look at the headlight relay tomorrow, just tough it was the relay's in the passenger side doing
the high beam work, because they click when you activate it, guess not.

[mortenmorfar]

Hmm nope the relay's fine :/, but the manual shows 6 relay's, there's only 5 in my car, 1 small with a black plug, then 3 with 4 wires and one last relay, with a bunch of wires.
I guess I will just have Mazda look at it, I can't see what's wrong.
The relay is working
The combination switch is fine (except the plug doesn't match the manual)
both bulbs are working

So what's left to check ?

[mortenmorfar]

Grr, my car is a freak, according to the manual, there should be 2 relay's in the passenger side.
One with 6 wires and the other relay, isn't in the manual...
but there's 3 relays with 6 wires in each on my car, wtf is that s--- for ?

Here's a picture of the misfit.

[mortenmorfar]

Is there anyone that have taken the combination switch apart ?, the manual says you need some special tool to put it together again, I just want to remove the Light switch, but it looks
like if I remove the top cover the spring will just fall out, any tips ?

[PoisonDrop]

There is only one headlight relay. It controls both high and low beams. Once it's turned on, it gives power to the switch on the column. The headlight switch actually switches the main load between high and low beams. If lows work and highs don't, it's not the relay it's the switch. If the relay goes bad, you will have no headlights at all. Check out the wiring diagrams in the manual for more info on this.

There are plenty of threads on here about these switches failing. You may be able to take it apart and fix it, if it's just corrosion on the contacts or something. But if the board's fried you may have to get a new switch.

[mortenmorfar]

Have you tried to take the switch apart ?, it looks like to remove the light switch you have to remove the clock spring, and the manual say's you shouldn't take it apart, because it needs some special tools to put the spring back in

[MX3-4U2NV]

I didn't really read everything or no anything, but I am willing to put my 2c in.

1. I can't remember, but do our high beams only work when we turn our normal head lights on when pushing the lever forward? BUT, the high beam flashing when pulling the lever back works at all times.

2. Is your e-brake on when testing? I know our daylight headlights turn off when the switch is off, and the e-brake is on.

[mortenmorfar]

I don't really remember if you have to turn the little knob to have the High beam on all the time, but even if I do that it doesn't work.
It doesn't Mather if I have the e-brake on or not, it still doesn't work

I have an appointment with a mechanic 25/11 so maybe he can take a look at it, maybe he have some tool that could tell what the problem is.

[PoisonDrop]

What year/model is your car?

I am looking at the wiring diagram right now (not the one online I have a mechanic's hard copy). Flash to pass and the normal high beams are on two separate wires. Flash to pass is red, headlight power is white/red. They are also attached to two separate switches inside the combo switch. They run off the same fuse and the same relay though. So what you're describing in your first post leads me to believe that it's the switch.

You can take it apart if you would like, but it's just a circuit board on the other end of the handle, so unless you can solder and replace components on a pcb, you are SOL. Plus it's way too much trouble to repair anyway, so you should just get a new one. Trust me these switches just fail...they are old...

[mortenmorfar]

It's a 97

well I guess it's the switch, but the funny thing is when I measure the pins, it's making a connection
so in my head, the switch should work...
maybe it's the wires going from the female plug connector ?

[PoisonDrop]

Use your tester and check the pins with everything plugged in. I don't know your wire colors, but check the back of your headlight to see which wire runs to the high beams. Now check for 12v at that wire when you operate the switch. Push the switch forward. According to your first post, you should have no power on the high beam wire when you do this. Now pull back and test for 12v. You should have power then. If this is true, then your switch is bad.

If your problem was the wires, then the high beams wouldn't work at all, no matter if you're pushing or pulling on the lever.

Even though there is only one wire for your high beams, there are two separate contacts that feed power to this wire. One set is for when you pull back (flash to pass) and the other is to keep them on permanently. These contacts are on the same circuit board in the combo switch, though, so if one is bad, you'll have to replace the whole switch. You may be able to get away with taking it apart and cleaning the contacts, but this did not work for me.

I'm sorry the combo switch is weird, and complicated to explain, so I hope I was of help...

[mortenmorfar]

Just talked with the mazda dealer, 120$ for the light switch, 925$ for the whole combination switch O.o

I will ask my "cheap" mechanic if he can test the switch to see if it's working or not, and then I guess I will have mazda
put a new switch on if the old one is bad, they only want 160$ to change it yay (not!), so 280$ for a god damn switch

Are there anyone that have tried to take the switch apart with ABS, the manual says you need some special tools
to install the spring, so I can't even do a simple job :/