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this is the only pic i have of it, i just took it from my window because i'm too lazy to go outside
and tomorrow its getting one of these stuck to it
i havnt decided which one yet, the new one is meant for a bentley and is a really good turbo, i think it might be a bit overkill for the mx3, so i think i'm going to user my old t3, i'll just see which one fits better tomorrow and decide then
i've decided too that i'm going to strip the interior out and weld in a scaffold pole rear strut brace, proberbly not tomorrow though, wont have time, got to concentrate on the turbo, i'm going to use the std exhaust from just behind where the cat should go then pipe it through the turbo into my stainless system, then ive got to mount and pipe the intercooler and oil pipes
by putting the MAF on the front of the turbo hopefully i'll get a decent reading from it, i'm only going to boost it about 3-4psi for now
did a couple of hours on it today, got a bracket and the flange made for the turbo, need to order a length of tube in the week and get a flange machined for the back of the turbo, (iits a wierd one) hopefully i'll have it boosting next week
i stripped it out yesterday, out with all of the back interior including my massive box , subs and amps, i took it out for a spirited blast on my b-road and its apparent that the tyres are too good for the brakes because they got so overheated that they are now warped to s---
anyone else had tis happen?
also strut braces, i'm going to make a back strut brace for mine, does it make a difference them being adjustable? if it does then i'll modify my front one and make a new adjustable back one
I'm looking forward to seeing how the turbo works out. I will one day make a solid rear strut bar... (Actually 2; 1 for each set of bolts). I think it will work better than an adjustable one.
I'd like to see a better picture of your car.. it's a shame the side skirts are hiding behind the tree
i'll take some pics later, its nothing special at the minute, the skirts are just the front and back ones, not the full length ones
the best thng ive done so far is the de-cat, made SO much difference, its now right on the power when you change up and it spits flames when you change aswell
before i did the de-cat there was a flatspot that really slowed it down
Interesting project! Are you fabbing up your own turbo pipes? Should be fun plumbing You from UK? Roads look like they are
AZ-3 1498cc Turbo! EVO 8 turbo and manifold, 5 stud swap, SSR Type C, DIYPNP seq Megasquirt Mx-3 2.5 V6 Turbo 291 BHP 251 lbft @ 8psi - Retired due to rust and back at uni View Worklog
yeah from the countryside, lots of nice twisty roads around here, its good
i dont have a pipe bender so i'm thinking do i buy some pre made bends and cut them to suit or do i just get a full length of steel and cut and segment it, buying some bends might be easier i think
and i need to get a flange machined for the back of my turbo
OK so i think i have everything sorted now, going to pick up my length of tube tomorrow and i'm getting up early on sunday so i will definetly get it finished, i'm going to cut my exhausts off at the flange so seeing as this is my only road worthy car then i'm going to have to finish it on sunday lol, i also need to weld in my back strut brace so i can rebuild my interior
does anyone knoe for sure how much boost i can safely run without altering anything like fuel or ignition? i'm thinking like 3-4psi (possibly a boost button for when i'm using octane booster)
i know its far from ideal but i dont have the cash to buy things to alter the fuelling, its nigh on impossible to get a FMU over here, i'm going to look into a piggyback injector and try a few experiments i think
woah, this thought has just come to me, i could wire a boost button with 2 piggyback injectors so that when i press it it would boost it up and turn on the 2 injectors, i think i'm onto something here
fowljesse wrote:I'm looking forward to seeing how the turbo works out. I will one day make a solid rear strut bar... (Actually 2; 1 for each set of bolts). I think it will work better than an adjustable one.
My/the Corksport is adjustable. I used to tweak it when I autocrossed to get the rear end stiffer to get the inner rear to "try" to come up off the ground.
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired) 2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18 2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500) 2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar 2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project