RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS + T
- RS_OBD'oh_2
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2400
- Joined: April 9th, 2007, 1:26 pm
- Location: Calgary, AB
RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS + T
So, it's finally time to start a worklog.
My goal is to make a step by step outline, including parts and tuning needed to get my turbo project off the ground.
First off, the parts:
RX-7 460cc injectors ($120)
New mitsubishi TD05 Big 16G turbo ($550)
Intercooler ($150)
Mandrel bends 2.5 (exhaust) 2.25 (intercooler) ($140)
JGS Precision Turbo turbo manifold kit + oil pressure orifice ($262.48) Part number: (TH034) (TA008) http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
4 misc silicone couplers 2.5', 2.25" + reducers, including 90 degree bend ($140)
AEM F/IC piggyback ecu (~$400) part number 30-1910
AEM UEGO Wideband AFR ($220) PN: 30-4100
AEM Tru Boost, guage type boost controller ($300) PN: 30-4350
BlitZ Dual Drive BOV ($200) PN:70039
DSM turbo downpipe (divorced WG) ($70) *** unable to use ***
DSM J-pipe ($40)
Function 7 TD05 oil drain flange -10 ($27)
Misc EVO bolt kit and gaskets ($160)
AEM dryflow air filter ($50) PN: 21-201DK
Dual guage pod A-pillar ($48) http://www.gaugepods.com/mazda.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
NRG adjustable fuel pressure regulator ($120)
NRG fuel rail adapter ($20) PN: FRG-TNMC
NRG catchcan ($80) PN: OCC-100C
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump $100
Clutch Spec stage 2+ $440
Mishimoto gauge type rad cap $52
- Misc oil and water lines
Will be using a -10AN fuel tank bulk head for oil pan return. This means no degreasing or welding on the pan. Comes with nut and nylon washers. If it can hold fuel, it should be leak free for an oil return.
+ $100 for parts and lines
-still needing:
Buddy Club voltage condensor
******NOTE******
This can be done for much less than I paid. I chose the parts I thought would last and perform the best.
Non turbo parts:
Tokico HP's (~$400)
Eibach springs ($238)
Erebuni mazdaspeed style kit ($700) Last kit made -paid $50 + $300+ shipping
SRD rear tie bar ($125)
Spyder auto projectors ($197)
NRG leather steering wheel ($100)
Momo Hub ($60)
Momo airleather shift knob ($60)
AutoR Racing seats ($250)
Pics will be on soon.
Will be closing related thread in images section.
My goal is to make a step by step outline, including parts and tuning needed to get my turbo project off the ground.
First off, the parts:
RX-7 460cc injectors ($120)
New mitsubishi TD05 Big 16G turbo ($550)
Intercooler ($150)
Mandrel bends 2.5 (exhaust) 2.25 (intercooler) ($140)
JGS Precision Turbo turbo manifold kit + oil pressure orifice ($262.48) Part number: (TH034) (TA008) http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
4 misc silicone couplers 2.5', 2.25" + reducers, including 90 degree bend ($140)
AEM F/IC piggyback ecu (~$400) part number 30-1910
AEM UEGO Wideband AFR ($220) PN: 30-4100
AEM Tru Boost, guage type boost controller ($300) PN: 30-4350
BlitZ Dual Drive BOV ($200) PN:70039
DSM turbo downpipe (divorced WG) ($70) *** unable to use ***
DSM J-pipe ($40)
Function 7 TD05 oil drain flange -10 ($27)
Misc EVO bolt kit and gaskets ($160)
AEM dryflow air filter ($50) PN: 21-201DK
Dual guage pod A-pillar ($48) http://www.gaugepods.com/mazda.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
NRG adjustable fuel pressure regulator ($120)
NRG fuel rail adapter ($20) PN: FRG-TNMC
NRG catchcan ($80) PN: OCC-100C
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump $100
Clutch Spec stage 2+ $440
Mishimoto gauge type rad cap $52
- Misc oil and water lines
Will be using a -10AN fuel tank bulk head for oil pan return. This means no degreasing or welding on the pan. Comes with nut and nylon washers. If it can hold fuel, it should be leak free for an oil return.
+ $100 for parts and lines
-still needing:
Buddy Club voltage condensor
******NOTE******
This can be done for much less than I paid. I chose the parts I thought would last and perform the best.
Non turbo parts:
Tokico HP's (~$400)
Eibach springs ($238)
Erebuni mazdaspeed style kit ($700) Last kit made -paid $50 + $300+ shipping
SRD rear tie bar ($125)
Spyder auto projectors ($197)
NRG leather steering wheel ($100)
Momo Hub ($60)
Momo airleather shift knob ($60)
AutoR Racing seats ($250)
Pics will be on soon.
Will be closing related thread in images section.
Last edited by RS_OBD'oh_2 on December 8th, 2009, 12:59 am, edited 4 times in total.
- RS_OBD'oh_2
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2400
- Joined: April 9th, 2007, 1:26 pm
- Location: Calgary, AB
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS
still have some cleaning/grinding to do... could not resist bolting everything up.
Soon to get high heat ceramic coated.
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS
any progress?
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS
cant wait for the finished project !:D any more pictures?
- RS_OBD'oh_2
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2400
- Joined: April 9th, 2007, 1:26 pm
- Location: Calgary, AB
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS
much more to come. This weekend I should have be able to get some work done.
-having another house built.. it's taken pretty much all of my time. sorry.
-having another house built.. it's taken pretty much all of my time. sorry.
- RS_OBD'oh_2
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2400
- Joined: April 9th, 2007, 1:26 pm
- Location: Calgary, AB
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS
ok, got some stuff done today. Basic pipe routing.
also did a little more work on the mani.
also did a little more work on the mani.
- RS_OBD'oh_2
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2400
- Joined: April 9th, 2007, 1:26 pm
- Location: Calgary, AB
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS
started to fit my bumper once again.... after having issues with an exhaust mani nut...
Intercooler is mounted using old headlight brackets... don't need them with the spyder projectors... would be a shame to toss them out.
Here is the thorn in my side at the moment. A nut that won't f'n let go off the exhaust mani. I ended up rounding if off with the impact gun. - smart - So I am in the process of trying to cut it off. I am currently debating cutting the stud off.
Intercooler is mounted using old headlight brackets... don't need them with the spyder projectors... would be a shame to toss them out.
Here is the thorn in my side at the moment. A nut that won't f'n let go off the exhaust mani. I ended up rounding if off with the impact gun. - smart - So I am in the process of trying to cut it off. I am currently debating cutting the stud off.
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS
look'in good!
- mx-3_4evr
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- Joined: February 8th, 2008, 12:15 am
- Location: Burnsville,MN
- Contact:
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS
that sucks! I would just cut the stud, then take out the rest of it and get a new one there
- Evo_Spec
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2504
- Joined: December 30th, 2008, 3:41 am
- Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS
i would say to take a dremel to it and cut a slit on both sides to see if you can peel it off
- RS_OBD'oh_2
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2400
- Joined: April 9th, 2007, 1:26 pm
- Location: Calgary, AB
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS
update!
manifold and turbo are mounted. It looks like I will have to cut and reposition the evo J pipe (comp outlet). The evo down pipe will be the same story. I am going to have to order more dsm/evo nuts. They fit on our studs and will clear the welds much better. I am able to use my old short ram... but might order a cheapy ebay prelude kit for the looks.
edit: I would like to have my intercooler piping run down by the washer fluid tank... not sure if I need a smaller tank or just an adjustment. If anyone knows, it would be a big help.
manifold and turbo are mounted. It looks like I will have to cut and reposition the evo J pipe (comp outlet). The evo down pipe will be the same story. I am going to have to order more dsm/evo nuts. They fit on our studs and will clear the welds much better. I am able to use my old short ram... but might order a cheapy ebay prelude kit for the looks.
edit: I would like to have my intercooler piping run down by the washer fluid tank... not sure if I need a smaller tank or just an adjustment. If anyone knows, it would be a big help.
- RS_OBD'oh_2
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2400
- Joined: April 9th, 2007, 1:26 pm
- Location: Calgary, AB
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS
on a side note:
DAMN YOU EGR!
DAMN YOU EGR!
- RS_OBD'oh_2
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2400
- Joined: April 9th, 2007, 1:26 pm
- Location: Calgary, AB
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS
another side note:
I will be able to retain my air conditioning, both fans and pending on my downpipe routing, I should not have any issues keeping power steering.
I will be able to retain my air conditioning, both fans and pending on my downpipe routing, I should not have any issues keeping power steering.
- RS_OBD'oh_2
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2400
- Joined: April 9th, 2007, 1:26 pm
- Location: Calgary, AB
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS + T
only had Sunday off, but have BOV mounted to upper IC pipe. I found out that I was unable to use the DSM down pipe with the divorced WG. So, today we started to custom make our own. It's only tac welded for now. The WG will be routed back in as well. Also cut and welded the DSM j pipe to the correct andle. Still have to trim back and weld on another section of pipe.
- RS_OBD'oh_2
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2400
- Joined: April 9th, 2007, 1:26 pm
- Location: Calgary, AB
Re: RS_OBD'oh_2's 1996 RS + T
Update!
Intercooler pipes are tacked welded and should be ready to do in for powder soon. Pics up in a day.
Intercooler pipes are tacked welded and should be ready to do in for powder soon. Pics up in a day.