Air intake or cam sensor?

[superfly]

Here is my problem. When I give it gas it wants to stall out almost like it's being flooded, it only does this when I am hard on the gas and below 3,000rpm. We figured that it needed to have the timing advanced but when we changed the position of the distributor it did nothing. I know that leaks in the air intake could do something similar to this but the fact that nothing happened when we tried to change the timing nothing happened makes me think that it could be something there such as the crank angle sensor or something. We have identified that it is not the Mass Air Flow Meter and I have recently replaced the Air silencer pipe. Also if there is a crack in the accordian section of the air intake how do I fix that without having to buy a whole new one?

[shameem]

To change timing or idle or anything else that is computer controlled - you first need to put the computer in diagnostic mode - otherwise it will compensate for whatever adjustment you make...

[superfly]

And how exactly do I put the computer in Diagnostic mode?

[shameem]

You need to jumper pins "TEN" and "GND" in the diagnostic box.... And before you ask whats a diagnostic box or where it is - please search.....
http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/search.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There are also manuals available
http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[superfly]

I have done that before but nothing happened. My Check Engine Light isn't on to begin with so I get no error codes, so how do I know that I am in diagnostic mode? Also is it safe to start the car with those pins jumpered?

Thank you for the online manual link.

[shameem]

Once you properly jumper the pin - you are in diag mode. It is safe to start in that mode. The ECU will disregard sensor values and run with default values.... Whatever base timing and idle you set will be remembered once you pull the jumper out. It might be a good idea to reset the ECU before you do this though....

[superfly]

Ok Thanks a whole lot, I'll give that a try.

[OutlaW]

Once you properly jumper the pin - you are in diag mode. It is safe to start in that mode. The ECU will disregard sensor values and run with default values.... Whatever base timing and idle you set will be remembered once you pull the jumper out. It might be a good idea to reset the ECU before you do this though....

how can we make this .. reset of the ECU

[Stablo87]

check the plug wires, the same thing happened to my friend. there was no evident problem with it but as soon as he changed them it fixed it. I still don't know why it didn't do it at the higher rpm's, he has an SAF-C and we noticed that as long as you didnt go over 20% o the throttle on the take off it would work fine and then you could really open it.

[Mooneggs]

how can we make this .. reset of the ECU

The way I have reset my ECU is to remove the negative battery cable then step on your brake pedal for a few seconds. This will essentially drain the system of the car of all power... I usually let the car sit completely drained for a minute or so. This should reset your ECU... my car usually takes a few miles before it's "learned" everything again...

[OutlaW]

thanks moon ...
i used to reset my ECu the same way in my old Hyundai Scoupe 1.5 GTurbo ... when u make this reset, the first miles after the reset are the learning miles.
If u wish to have a strong car, give it all u got on the first miles.
If u wish a economic car, use the gas pedal gently and allways below 2000rpm


when my all my new parts arrive, ill install them and make a ECU reset on the same day im going to Estoril Track.
Gonna give it hell to get there, so when i reach the track, the car is all loose and stronger than ever

[superfly]

Hey Stablo, thanks for the suggestion. I bought the car about a month ago so I don't know the history of it. It looks as if there are brand new wires on the car so I never thought to check them out. We did how ever pull each plug off when the car was running and each one made a difference so we knew they were all firing but not how well.

I was able to advance the timing on it and it made it ever so slightly better but still the same problem, you either have to like you said stay less than 20% on throttle or rev up to 3,000 rpm and drop the clutch. I also think I might try and reset the ecu like mooneggs said.

Interesting fact. a friend of mine http://www.brandon-holland.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; is pretty good with computers and has just bought a OBD1 to USB for his 1990 Eagle Talon and is planning on writing a diagnostic program so he can display information on his dvd screen wired in through his apple tv which is in his car. Once he is able to do this he plans on working on a OBD2 program which would work on the MX-3.