iac problems

1992blazeredgs · Post by **1992blazeredgs** » December 16th, 2007, 10:47 am

Ever since i went to a 65mm tb it appears my iac isnt working. At first i thought it was just old, and needed a good cleaning. so yesterday i pulled my tb, comletely cleaned the tb and iac. Readjusted my tps, and the whole nine yards. Well still i still have the same problem. On initial cold start the car does not want to idle and i have to hold the rpms at 1500 or so where they should be if the iac were working. I have to hold the rpms there for a few minutes then everything is fine. The iac gives the appropriate resistance, when tested. Is it possible that i have the two coolant lines switched around? Will that even matter? I read somewhere that, having the lines switched is the same as doing the cooalnt bypass which will give the same problem I have. Any ideas would be great because this is driving me crazy now that its freezing outside.

Nate

eyezpinned · Post by **eyezpinned** » December 16th, 2007, 12:22 pm

i had a problem with a faulty iac and finally just replaced it. in the meantime you can overide the iac by overcompensating with the idle adjustment screw. it sounds like you valve is stuck closed. a good way to check this is to run the a/c and see if it bogs down when the compressor kicks on. under normal iac operating conditions your rpms should go up a little when you run the compressor. if it's stuck any load at idle (compressor, headlights, wipers, hard turns) will bog down the engine. i got my iac for $50 shipped with a guarantee against it being DOA. you might want to check for vacuum leaks also.

1992blazeredgs · Post by **1992blazeredgs** » December 16th, 2007, 2:01 pm

I have no vacuum leaks, the motor only has 4k on it since i rebuilt it. also i did not have a problem until going to this new iac that came with my bored tb. The question i need answer, is is possible that crossing the two coolant lines that run to the iac, will give me these symptoms?

Nate