No Heat in car, No rear defoggers

4-Cyl. Technical/Performance Discussions
Red_MX3_92
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No Heat in car, No rear defoggers

Post by Red_MX3_92 »

Last winter i didn't drive this car because my engine blew and i don't remember if it worked or not... but the past month it's been a real cold drive to school.

2 problems:

1) cold heater not making any heat(slight heat thats it)

2) Rear defoggers don't work.


1. I've been searching around the site here and in the manual but the heater part is not in the manual, my dad told me it's either plugged up somewhere in the tubes (i checked em out went all around under the dash all good) or theres this switch or something in the engine compartment for it no idea about that so still stuck... and its getting colder and colder so yea...


2. I have switch the hatch b4 because i smashed my glass installing a wing (not patient me). the switch to turn them on and off didn't light up so i replaced that and now it lights up when on but they still doesn't clear the window. so if u can point me the right way on this. i havn't really tried anything yet because i don't want to stan outside guessing and checking what the problem is so thought its better to look it up first.
95 B6DE 5spd H @ R lowering springs, custom exhaust, 5 spoke noname rims, gtr wing, short shift, alpine mrd 1000 amp, 2 15" ma audio subs, panasonic deck, JBL front speakers AND A BLOWN ENGINE!:(
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umcamara
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Post by umcamara »

What does your coolant temp guage read when you're getting no heat. If it reads cold, your thermostat is very likely stuck open. It's incredibly easy to change.
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95 rs
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Post by 95 rs »

ok so for the first problem. no heat... i just went through this. on the fire wall you should see where your heater core goes into the passenger compartment. are those hoses hot? like i dont mean warm i mean so hot you can barely touch them? if so thats a good thing that means coolant is flowing through them. if ones hot and ones cooler more then likly its plugged. what i found that can work is flushing the cooling system with clr. only use half a litre or so. let the car run for an hour and then flush the cooling system and then run water through the system to get all the clr out. then put in new coolant and see if that helps. if one hose is still hotter then the other more then likly your heater core is pooched. i flushed mine and it warmed up a bit but not like it should be. so i got a new heater core. they can be fairly expensive so shop around. one place hear wanted $300 and i found a brand new one for $88 so it pays to shop around. if your heater core is fine check to make sure you air temperature mix doors are working properly. you may have a cable that is stretched and its not closing the doors properly.

for your second problem id sheck the relay under the dash on the driver side to see what kind of condition its in. if it has green death replace it. its fairly simple to replace. if the relay looks fine check the grid on the glass for anykind of breaks. if you cant find a break check if you have power going to the rear hatch portion. if you do check to see if theres power at the relay. if not check the fuses.

i hope this helps you out. i know the clr thing seems a little out there but i work at a ford dealership and there are alot of dealerships across canada that use that trick. so it does work 95% of the time depending on how clogged your heater core is.
95 rs with custom short ram air, b&m short throw shifter, probe 2.0L header with 2 1/4" exhaust all the way back, catco high flow cat, apc high flow muffler with 4.5" tip, accel 8 mm wires, blaze red, cf altezzas, gun metal 17" mr7s, slotted cross drilled rotors on the way with hawk hps pads, red and white interior, other then that its stock.
Red_MX3_92
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Post by Red_MX3_92 »

Ok my coolant temp is all good....

for the second guy...

heater... it's dark and cold now and cars cold so i will not be checking if the hoses are hot today i'll check that tomorrow after school... but i gotta say that clr thing sounds a little sketchy i don't think i ant to do that lol (but if worse come to worse i will)... and where is the heater cor located i will check that out aswell... and the air temp doors are good checked em...

I checked the relay and all that its good. Tomorrow my brothers going to check if theres any power going to them and will let yea know how that works out
95 B6DE 5spd H @ R lowering springs, custom exhaust, 5 spoke noname rims, gtr wing, short shift, alpine mrd 1000 amp, 2 15" ma audio subs, panasonic deck, JBL front speakers AND A BLOWN ENGINE!:(
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Post by cjthor »

When was the last time you had a coolant flush? Also check...I think there is a fuse for the defroster. If you feel the relay as you turn it off and on im pretty sure you can feel it tic on and off.
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Post by wytbishop »

95 rs wrote:ok so for the first problem. no heat... i just went through this. on the fire wall you should see where your heater core goes into the passenger compartment. are those hoses hot? like i dont mean warm i mean so hot you can barely touch them? if so thats a good thing that means coolant is flowing through them. if ones hot and ones cooler more then likly its plugged. what i found that can work is flushing the cooling system with clr. only use half a litre or so. let the car run for an hour and then flush the cooling system and then run water through the system to get all the clr out. then put in new coolant and see if that helps. if one hose is still hotter then the other more then likly your heater core is pooched. i flushed mine and it warmed up a bit but not like it should be. so i got a new heater core. they can be fairly expensive so shop around. one place hear wanted $300 and i found a brand new one for $88 so it pays to shop around. if your heater core is fine check to make sure you air temperature mix doors are working properly. you may have a cable that is stretched and its not closing the doors properly.

for your second problem id sheck the relay under the dash on the driver side to see what kind of condition its in. if it has green death replace it. its fairly simple to replace. if the relay looks fine check the grid on the glass for anykind of breaks. if you cant find a break check if you have power going to the rear hatch portion. if you do check to see if theres power at the relay. if not check the fuses.

i hope this helps you out. i know the clr thing seems a little out there but i work at a ford dealership and there are alot of dealerships across canada that use that trick. so it does work 95% of the time depending on how clogged your heater core is.

Hey when you changed your heater core did you have to remove your dash? I got a decent looking core from the local wreckers but the dash was already out of the car so it was very easy to get out. As I looked at it though, it appeared that I would not be able to get the bolts that secure the top of the hvac console unless the dash was out. I need to change my core but I can't see how to do it without removing the dash.

Also, does anyone have the section of the manual for the hvac stuff. I have the rest of the manual except that section and the online manual is missing that section as well.
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95 rs
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Post by 95 rs »

yea thats the only way i could make it come out... its a real pain.
95 rs with custom short ram air, b&m short throw shifter, probe 2.0L header with 2 1/4" exhaust all the way back, catco high flow cat, apc high flow muffler with 4.5" tip, accel 8 mm wires, blaze red, cf altezzas, gun metal 17" mr7s, slotted cross drilled rotors on the way with hawk hps pads, red and white interior, other then that its stock.
Red_MX3_92
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Post by Red_MX3_92 »

ok... i had the cooland flushed in the summertime

and i checked the hoses right after i came from school and the hoses were semi-warm(sorta as if they were just gtting head from the engine), but not hot. however i just check those hoses again a sec ago and they were a dad warmer (because car was running), and i notices a slight stench of cooland sorta like as if it was burning but not really i dunno figure i say it.

As for the rear defogger i checked the relay and it was clicking. i didn't have time to check if there was power coming to them yet because it got a little to dark.

so with the heater issue what do u guys think now?
95 B6DE 5spd H @ R lowering springs, custom exhaust, 5 spoke noname rims, gtr wing, short shift, alpine mrd 1000 amp, 2 15" ma audio subs, panasonic deck, JBL front speakers AND A BLOWN ENGINE!:(
95 rs
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Post by 95 rs »

so they werent really hot that you cant touch them??? and if you smell burning coolant that might not be a good thing and could be some of the problem. check your oil and see if it has any coolant in it ( it will be a milky color if it does) and maybe pull your spark plugs and see if the ends are white. if they are more then likly its a blown head gasket.

but all in all it seems like your heater core is plugged.
95 rs with custom short ram air, b&m short throw shifter, probe 2.0L header with 2 1/4" exhaust all the way back, catco high flow cat, apc high flow muffler with 4.5" tip, accel 8 mm wires, blaze red, cf altezzas, gun metal 17" mr7s, slotted cross drilled rotors on the way with hawk hps pads, red and white interior, other then that its stock.
Red_MX3_92
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Post by Red_MX3_92 »

no they weren't i was holdng them...
and no the engines good replace the head gasket and some other stuff b4 its all good...

but the heater core(lol i dun even know what that is or how to get to it or replace it) its not in the online manual so can u help me figure out how to get to it and inspect it... (if its bad i'm probably gona end up getting one out of the wreckers)
95 B6DE 5spd H @ R lowering springs, custom exhaust, 5 spoke noname rims, gtr wing, short shift, alpine mrd 1000 amp, 2 15" ma audio subs, panasonic deck, JBL front speakers AND A BLOWN ENGINE!:(
95 rs
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Post by 95 rs »

my car is a 95 and its right under the dash and center console. on a 93 im not sure where but the only other way you can really test it is take off the 2 hoses to it and run water through it. if the water is comming out slower then you get it in there its plugged. if its about the same then its fine.
95 rs with custom short ram air, b&m short throw shifter, probe 2.0L header with 2 1/4" exhaust all the way back, catco high flow cat, apc high flow muffler with 4.5" tip, accel 8 mm wires, blaze red, cf altezzas, gun metal 17" mr7s, slotted cross drilled rotors on the way with hawk hps pads, red and white interior, other then that its stock.
Red_MX3_92
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Post by Red_MX3_92 »

mines a 95 aswell, but whn i was under there it looks like there was a bunch of plasic stuff uner the dash of the center console, do i take all that out...
95 B6DE 5spd H @ R lowering springs, custom exhaust, 5 spoke noname rims, gtr wing, short shift, alpine mrd 1000 amp, 2 15" ma audio subs, panasonic deck, JBL front speakers AND A BLOWN ENGINE!:(
95 rs
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Post by 95 rs »

yea your heatercore is inside that. its a pain in the a$$ but well its gotta get done. try running water through it first tho
95 rs with custom short ram air, b&m short throw shifter, probe 2.0L header with 2 1/4" exhaust all the way back, catco high flow cat, apc high flow muffler with 4.5" tip, accel 8 mm wires, blaze red, cf altezzas, gun metal 17" mr7s, slotted cross drilled rotors on the way with hawk hps pads, red and white interior, other then that its stock.
95 rs
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Location: thompson, manitoba

Post by 95 rs »

go into the online manuals and where it says 95 body and electrical troubleshoting theres the heating and ac section.
95 rs with custom short ram air, b&m short throw shifter, probe 2.0L header with 2 1/4" exhaust all the way back, catco high flow cat, apc high flow muffler with 4.5" tip, accel 8 mm wires, blaze red, cf altezzas, gun metal 17" mr7s, slotted cross drilled rotors on the way with hawk hps pads, red and white interior, other then that its stock.
Red_MX3_92
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Post by Red_MX3_92 »

k thx alot bud i'll let u know how this turns out...
95 B6DE 5spd H @ R lowering springs, custom exhaust, 5 spoke noname rims, gtr wing, short shift, alpine mrd 1000 amp, 2 15" ma audio subs, panasonic deck, JBL front speakers AND A BLOWN ENGINE!:(
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