Head scratcher!

General Mazda MX-3 Discussions
Post Reply
Craig LEE
Junior Member
Posts: 11
Joined: October 9th, 2007, 9:31 am
Location: Victoria, OZ.

Head scratcher!

Post by Craig LEE »

I have a stock 1994 30 X. It broke down recently and the Mazda dealer said it gave a distributor fault code and replaced it. Ran for awhile then broke down again. Another crowd, again said distributor and replaced the replacement! It had already had a replacement ECU, new alternator, new battery, new leads and plugs. I have tested the TPS and the Air sensor and both seem within spec.
The symptoms are runs fine for a few minutes and then starts slowing down as if the fuel pump is cutting the fuel. Have checked line pressure and fitted a new pressure reg. Pressure is within spec. Drove around with the gauge on it. Symptoms occurred while guage attached; no change in pressure. It honestly feels like the fuel is being turned off. Then will magically start to run well and almost jumps out of its skin with grunt, relatively speaking. So I figure it can't be fuel. Is there someone who can suggest what might cause an intermittent fault like this? This condition also affects the idle. It drops about 300 rpm when the condition occurs. Any suggestions or direction to look would be appreciated. I've already spent $2,500.00. Cheers. :x
Craig from OZ.
User avatar
Tunes67
Supporting Member
Posts: 4708
Joined: January 27th, 2005, 6:36 pm
Location: Everett, WA
Contact:

Post by Tunes67 »

The distributors in our cars were produced for Mazda by Mitsubishi. As a result.. they suck. Your symptoms are classic for distributor failure. Doesnt matter that you just replaced it.. this is a relatively common problem. One member on this board went through 6 OEM distributors in less than 6 months. But.. there is a Cure.. ;) Check the V6 FAQ forum and read up on the "HEI Mod" Lots of instances and posts that will not only tell you how to do the mod.. but what parts you will need and plenty of instances where other folks have already done the mod so you can ask any questions you might have. But spend a bit of time reading in the V6 FAQ forum.. most of your questions have likely already been answered there.

Tunes67
"So long.. and thanks for all the fish!" "Momma says VW Bugs are the devil" "This one time at band camp.. I stuck a flute in my Throttle Body" ;)
"Screw you guys.. I am goin home"

I am the Cranky God of Mods!!! Tremble before my fury!! LOL
Craig LEE
Junior Member
Posts: 11
Joined: October 9th, 2007, 9:31 am
Location: Victoria, OZ.

Re Head Scratcher.

Post by Craig LEE »

Thanks, tunes, I will have a good read before I attempt anything. I'm fairly handy around cars/bikes but there's nothing like personal ownership to find out the quirks. Thanks again, Craig from OZ. :wink:
Craig from OZ.
Craig LEE
Junior Member
Posts: 11
Joined: October 9th, 2007, 9:31 am
Location: Victoria, OZ.

Re Head Scratcher.

Post by Craig LEE »

Tunes 67 or anyone with knowledge on the subject. I notice in the diagrams regarding the addition of the module, that it appears you tap into the signal wires to connect the ig. mod. Why doesn't the original module within the dist. interfere with the new one or vice versa. Or is that something where you pat my head and say, well don't worry about it and just plug it in! Thanks. :?: :!:
Craig from OZ.
ninjajim4
Regular Member
Posts: 1163
Joined: December 18th, 2004, 2:01 am

Post by ninjajim4 »

that is definitely a good question -- someone needs to fix that how to, because you DO need to disable the stock module.

sorry i don't really know the procedure on that, but it's why i never did the mod. didn't want to break what's already working. at least for now.

hopefully someone else will chime in on that
Craig LEE
Junior Member
Posts: 11
Joined: October 9th, 2007, 9:31 am
Location: Victoria, OZ.

Post by Craig LEE »

Jim, I was thinking about it later and realised that with that set up, if you do isolate the internal module, you won't get a tacho signal. Perhaps they work in synq and the set up makes it more reliable? I am going to take the plunge in the next few days. I'll let everyone know how it goes. Cheers.
Craig from OZ.
User avatar
Tunes67
Supporting Member
Posts: 4708
Joined: January 27th, 2005, 6:36 pm
Location: Everett, WA
Contact:

Post by Tunes67 »

When you cut the (Orange I think) Wire going to the disty... this is the signal wire that now goes to the HEI module. Its the Signal from the ECU telling the ignitor module to fire the coil. By redirecting it from the stock distributor to the HEI module.. your telling the HEI module to fire the coil. So in essence.. since you cut it to be able to put the wire to the HEI module.. its no longer connected to the disty. Just sorta looks that way cause that is what the wire was. Mind you this is off the top of my head.. I am not looking at the diagrams so I might have the wire color wrong.

Tunes67
"So long.. and thanks for all the fish!" "Momma says VW Bugs are the devil" "This one time at band camp.. I stuck a flute in my Throttle Body" ;)
"Screw you guys.. I am goin home"

I am the Cranky God of Mods!!! Tremble before my fury!! LOL
User avatar
Tunes67
Supporting Member
Posts: 4708
Joined: January 27th, 2005, 6:36 pm
Location: Everett, WA
Contact:

Post by Tunes67 »

The tach signal is on a seperate wire.. you need to use the 1k ohm resistor in line from that wire to the new coil or you WILL fry the tach. Gimme a day or two and I will do up yet another diagram with proper wire colors.

Tunes67
"So long.. and thanks for all the fish!" "Momma says VW Bugs are the devil" "This one time at band camp.. I stuck a flute in my Throttle Body" ;)
"Screw you guys.. I am goin home"

I am the Cranky God of Mods!!! Tremble before my fury!! LOL
User avatar
Tunes67
Supporting Member
Posts: 4708
Joined: January 27th, 2005, 6:36 pm
Location: Everett, WA
Contact:

Post by Tunes67 »

Here is a thread that has a couple of good diagrams in it.. was a serious pain to find this with the Search function.. there seems to be something wrong with it. So likely you wouldnt have been able to find this thread if you didnt know it exsisted.

http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=

This might help clarify things. Also.. when I did the HEI mod on my RS.. I found it MUCH easier to make all the joint connections at the COIL rather than at the HEI module itself.

Tunes67
"So long.. and thanks for all the fish!" "Momma says VW Bugs are the devil" "This one time at band camp.. I stuck a flute in my Throttle Body" ;)
"Screw you guys.. I am goin home"

I am the Cranky God of Mods!!! Tremble before my fury!! LOL
User avatar
tehbrookzorz
Regular Member
Posts: 1561
Joined: April 29th, 2006, 6:59 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta

Post by tehbrookzorz »

NEW DIAGRAM WITH PROPER WIRING!? GO TUNES GO!
Cody
Image
Craig LEE
Junior Member
Posts: 11
Joined: October 9th, 2007, 9:31 am
Location: Victoria, OZ.

Post by Craig LEE »

Went to an auto electrician today and bought the wrong ig. module! Too keen for my own good. Bought a Ford one but when you read the instructions it uses a pulse generator on the engine rather than the ECU trigger. Doh! Will have to wait 'til next week and order in the correct one. Got the only one they had. I live in a rural area. They can order the right one in. The sparky reckons the coil in the dizzy is the problem and I should do the second mod(coil) straight away. It doesn't appear that it is necessary. I have to use the car this weekend so I was hoping to have it done. Still haven't heard from anyone about leaving the existing +ve and -ve wires connected to the original coil. Just interested in the theory. Cheers.
Craig from OZ.
User avatar
shameem
Supporting Member
Posts: 820
Joined: May 9th, 2007, 9:59 pm

Post by shameem »

You leave the coil connected if you dont do the external coil mod - otherwise you have to unplug the 3 pin connector that goes to the internal coil. And fill up the unplugged connector with silicone or something so you dont accidentally plug it in and to prevent water from shorting the pins.

You have to cut the orange wire which is the trigger from ecu. You also have to cut the ground wire next to it to properly isolate the internal module (it wont be as important if you do the external coil mod).
Post Reply

Return to “General Mazda MX-3”