i need a lot of help

jakes3 · Post by **jakes3** » September 26th, 2007, 4:25 pm

i just recently got a 92 mx-3 with a kl-ze. i searched through a bit of the site and couldnt really find what i was looking for. im looking for a LIST of what is used or can be used in a kl-ze swap ( i.e. starter, alternator, distributor, etc.) i dont know exactly what is done to the car already but while driving i got it to reach 8000rpm's. i have an aftermarket tach in the car too but it seems like the light isnt coming on for the point i set it at (6500rpm). if anyone knows what can be done please let me know, i NEED to get this car running properly.

i keep gettin a hesitation or stutter while driving as well as while taking offin 1st. the car has a crappy imitaion of an intake on it and the kid i got it from claims to have put a 300zx fuel pump in it. i dont know how much of an affect that would have on the car but maybe something can be done to get it right. as far as i know the car still has the 1.8l computer in it (which i would assume is what i can see behind the center console) and im not sure what kind of mass air flow sensor is on it. any thoughts or contributions are appreciated.

jakes3 · Post by **jakes3** » September 26th, 2007, 5:53 pm

no takers?

chertel · Post by **chertel** » September 26th, 2007, 8:49 pm

Try and find the right ecu, either kl31 or kl 36. Also if you have a shitty intake get a proper intake either from prm or the one from the older model integra works. Maybe you need a new tps? I dont know just some things to look into. I am sure someone on here will read this and correct me and give you the proper advice. Hope I helped some?
later
Chris

Vanished · Post by **Vanished** » September 27th, 2007, 1:57 am

http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=61283

I smell redundance haha..

Ok, look to make things easy here...the ONLY thing that has been changed in your car, according to what you've told me, is the clutch, the engine, and the fuel pump, and the intake. Everything thing else is mx-3 parts.

-Spark plugs are NGK BKR-6E11
-Wires are for the MX-6 or Probe because they are abit longer (NGK as well)
-Injectors should be from a millenia,
-as well as the intake manifold and fuel rails
-Distributer, cap and rotor are your stock K8
-The valve cover gaskets are the same as any mx-6, probe or mx-3 engine
-PCV from any K series engine (mx-3, probe, mx-6)
-Oil is 5w30 (run synthetic) fill it to the spec on your dip stick. Oil filter is for any 2.5L k Series V6 (probe, mx-6)
- Get belts for the mx-6 or probe
-Anything on the engine harness is the same as any K series engine as well

Anything that does not have contact with the engine block is an mx-3 part. that means any suspension, body, interior, fuel system (Excluding Injectors, and aparently your pump) electrical system (aside from plugs and wires) transmission and drive train (including starter, clutch can be a probe, mx-6 or mx-3, but the probe/mx-6 is a bit bigger (better) ). Belts can also be bought for mx-6 or probe 2.5L engines.

NOTE: when i say parts for mx-6, probe, or mx-3 that means the V6, and in the probe and mx-6 case, the 2.5L

Millenia also works in place of the mx-6 and probe.

I probably missed a few things, but honestly, the klze block on the outside is the same.

What i usually do is compare part numbers. If they are the same for the 2.5L motors used in mx-6, millenia, and probe, then your 100% safe. If not, find out what the difference is, take off the stock part, and compare it to the new part.

Common sence.

ElectricEnergy · Post by **ElectricEnergy** » September 27th, 2007, 3:07 am

Am I the only one who noticed he intentionally wound it out to 8000rpm? :p

Don't do that, the motor isn't designed to go above 7000 and the ZEs are notorious for dropping valves at high RPMs. Also, the torque drops off by then anyway, so its slower to shift passed about 7000.

TREVO123 · Post by **TREVO123** » September 27th, 2007, 4:41 am

ElectricEnergy wrote:Am I the only one who noticed he intentionally wound it out to 8000rpm? :p

Don't do that, the motor isn't designed to go above 7000 and the ZEs are notorious for dropping valves at high RPMs. Also, the torque drops off by then anyway, so its slower to shift passed about 7000.

.

What are you talkin about? I know ppl who rev there Ze's to 10000 Rpm on a daily baisis thru every gear.. just not recommended

jakes3 · Post by **jakes3** » September 27th, 2007, 9:08 am

ok, THATS the info i was looking for! lol, thanks a lot guys. i guess i was just wording things a lil diff in the other post, sorry about that. "off to the west coast," (xzibit) lol

Post by **Mooneggs** » September 27th, 2007, 10:39 am

TREVO123 wrote:What are you talkin about? I know ppl who rev there Ze's to 10000 Rpm on a daily baisis thru every gear.. just not recommended

sorry but I find that hard to believe (revving to 10000)... is it anyone on the board? I'd love to see video of the needle going past the highbeams icon on the dash since our tachs stop at 8000

and WHY would you do that anyways? the power band drops off at 6600...

jakes3 · Post by **jakes3** » September 27th, 2007, 12:59 pm

i may be wrong and i dont mean to sound like an a-- but isnt it TQ that gets you goin and HP that keeps you goin?

if im right, doesnt that mean the car would still create power to maintain or increase momentum?

i got to just about 8000 rpms and got a lil nervous then let off the throttle. it felt like it was still making power

Post by **Mooneggs** » September 27th, 2007, 2:36 pm

before you know it you are going to blow that engine... there's no point in pushing it tha far

Vanished · Post by **Vanished** » September 27th, 2007, 7:49 pm

TREVO123 wrote:What are you talkin about? I know ppl who rev there Ze's to 10000 Rpm on a daily baisis thru every gear.. just not recommended

what are YOU talking about? Nope, sorry...no 10k reving. Redlight and your at RISK to drop a valve. Not happening, ever. Do these people you talk about have Fast and Furious floor mats and ugly body kits?

jakes3 · Post by **jakes3** » September 29th, 2007, 9:11 am

ok i think i found the kid who built my car. i also found out that my car has a probe GT intake mani. what would that be considered a curved neck/ straight neckl? is it any good? i also was told that the motors been built internally. so maybe it is ok to rev it up, although i dont really want to chance it.

i work with a kid (jeremy) whos friends with the brother of the kid i bought the car from (mike) and apparently the kids brother (joe?) has a miata that he takes to the kid who built my car. so jeremy's gonna try to find out, where the kid works, from joe so i can find out whats done and what needs to be done to the car to get it up to par. also jeremy said joe said the cars got some port and polish work done to it too. ill let you guys know how it turns out, im supposed to find out monday, i hope

mr1in6billion · Post by **mr1in6billion** » September 29th, 2007, 1:10 pm

jakes3 wrote:isnt it TQ that gets you goin and HP that keeps you goin?

TQ X RPM = HP

That's why the rpm is stated where max tq and hp are made, but even then the numbers are useless. It's the graph that tells the real story.

jakes3 · Post by **jakes3** » September 29th, 2007, 1:32 pm

oooo nice! i need to get to a dyno, lol. i do really want to see what im puttin to the ground...this could be interesting