Timing question
- WhiteFinish
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Timing question
Hi there,
I've got a little problem with my timing.
This happend after I replaced my intake manifold and the waterpump (?).
The timing is positioned at 13 while this has to be 10.
The timingbelt en the crankshaftposition is checked by three different people and the all verify it's positioned correctly.
Does anyone has got any idea's?
I've got a little problem with my timing.
This happend after I replaced my intake manifold and the waterpump (?).
The timing is positioned at 13 while this has to be 10.
The timingbelt en the crankshaftposition is checked by three different people and the all verify it's positioned correctly.
Does anyone has got any idea's?
- PATDIESEL
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Once you have the timing marks lined up on the cams and crank you adjust the timing by (with the car off) jumping ten and ground in the diagnostics box and then crank the car. Hook up a timing light, then loosen the two bolts that hold the distributor on, then while having one person watch the timing with the light the other will move the disty until it is spot on 10*. Turn the car off, pull the jumper in the diag box. Recrank and recheck that the timing stayed at ten degrees.
BTW, this must have been posted 1000 times. Please do a search next time to make sure there hasn't been the same question and answer so many times.
BTW, this must have been posted 1000 times. Please do a search next time to make sure there hasn't been the same question and answer so many times.
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
- WhiteFinish
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- Joined: April 3rd, 2006, 9:48 am
- Location: Netherlands
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- WhiteFinish
- Regular Member
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- Joined: April 3rd, 2006, 9:48 am
- Location: Netherlands
- Contact:
- PATDIESEL
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How does it not work? When you get the disty loose and move it the timgin doesn't change?... I don't see how that is at all possible as it is a mechanical not electrical change. If you jumped ten and gnd with the car off then did as I said it should work.
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
- PATDIESEL
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Interesting. I've always done it incorrectly then... On a note, it has always worked for me...
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
- WhiteFinish
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- Tunes67
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So your car is a 1996+ car? Otherwise its OBDI. And not that I am doubting you.. but can you put a link here to the page in the shop manual that says to pull the jumper while the engine is running? Just curiousMaybe there is a differnce between odb 1 and odb 2 ??
Tunes67
"So long.. and thanks for all the fish!" "Momma says VW Bugs are the devil" "This one time at band camp.. I stuck a flute in my Throttle Body"
"Screw you guys.. I am goin home"
I am the Cranky God of Mods!!! Tremble before my fury!! LOL
"Screw you guys.. I am goin home"
I am the Cranky God of Mods!!! Tremble before my fury!! LOL
- WhiteFinish
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- umcamara
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My car is a '96. I can't figure out how to link to the shop manual, but it's on page G-24. It says to adjust the distributor, then disconnect the jumper, then verify the timing.
Tunes... in your throttle body cleaning article, you wrote,"
And thats it folks.. you should of course replace the gasket that goes between the TB and the Intake. But you are now ready to reinstall your TB.
*Edit* Just one additional note - You will need to readjust your idle speed after you reinstall your TB. This is pretty easy to do though. Just place a jumper wire between TEN & GND on the diagnostic box and then tighten or loosen the IAA screw until your idle speed is around 750-800 RPMs. Then remove the jumper wire while the engine is running. You will need to allow your engine to reach normal operating temp before making the final adjustment. "
I believe if the shop manual wanted you to remove the jumper after turning the car off, it would say to do so. That's just my opinion.
I also believe that while in diagnostic mode, the procedures for timing and idle adjustment would be the same as far as when to remove the jumper.
I'm not trying to be abrasive, I just think that this issue needs to be resolved somehow.
Tunes... in your throttle body cleaning article, you wrote,"
And thats it folks.. you should of course replace the gasket that goes between the TB and the Intake. But you are now ready to reinstall your TB.
*Edit* Just one additional note - You will need to readjust your idle speed after you reinstall your TB. This is pretty easy to do though. Just place a jumper wire between TEN & GND on the diagnostic box and then tighten or loosen the IAA screw until your idle speed is around 750-800 RPMs. Then remove the jumper wire while the engine is running. You will need to allow your engine to reach normal operating temp before making the final adjustment. "
I believe if the shop manual wanted you to remove the jumper after turning the car off, it would say to do so. That's just my opinion.
I also believe that while in diagnostic mode, the procedures for timing and idle adjustment would be the same as far as when to remove the jumper.
I'm not trying to be abrasive, I just think that this issue needs to be resolved somehow.
- Tunes67
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Umcamar1 Yeah thats a 4cyl engine too.. might be different for the K8. I had a Mazda tech tell me that back then.. I still havent seen any definitive proof that it was correct either. But I went with what I was told by him. A LOT of guys here have always removed the jumper after the car was shut down.. and I have tried it both ways and found that it works both ways (at least on my RS.. havent tried on my GS)
Thing is.. when I remove the jumper while the engine is running.. it has sparked a couple of times.. somehow.. I just dont think that can be good.
This is all leading up to the reason I asked WhiteFinish for a link to where he saw that in the shop manual So I would have verified proof that that is the correct procedure.
Tunes67
Thing is.. when I remove the jumper while the engine is running.. it has sparked a couple of times.. somehow.. I just dont think that can be good.
This is all leading up to the reason I asked WhiteFinish for a link to where he saw that in the shop manual So I would have verified proof that that is the correct procedure.
Tunes67
"So long.. and thanks for all the fish!" "Momma says VW Bugs are the devil" "This one time at band camp.. I stuck a flute in my Throttle Body"
"Screw you guys.. I am goin home"
I am the Cranky God of Mods!!! Tremble before my fury!! LOL
"Screw you guys.. I am goin home"
I am the Cranky God of Mods!!! Tremble before my fury!! LOL
-
- Junior Member
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- Joined: September 25th, 2002, 2:01 am
- Location: The Netherlands
Guys,
I'm working on the car.
here is what is going on.
Crank pulley is on T
cam pulleys on the mark.
So the timing belt is on ok.
I have checked the rotor arm position on other engines with the cam pulley on the mark.
checked with other distributors.
All the same.
When I warm up the car.. connect TEN -> GND it is way of.
I use plug one to test.
When the distributor is in the middele where it should be it is way of.
With others cars I have over here everything is the same but it is sparking on time.
I realy don't get it.
We have looked with 3 mechanics and we can't find it.
I'm working on the car.
here is what is going on.
Crank pulley is on T
cam pulleys on the mark.
So the timing belt is on ok.
I have checked the rotor arm position on other engines with the cam pulley on the mark.
checked with other distributors.
All the same.
When I warm up the car.. connect TEN -> GND it is way of.
I use plug one to test.
When the distributor is in the middele where it should be it is way of.
With others cars I have over here everything is the same but it is sparking on time.
I realy don't get it.
We have looked with 3 mechanics and we can't find it.
This must be something related to automatic timming adjustment the motor does. I don't know how it works but I know we can ear it...
Jump TEN + GND, put the car ON (ignition OFF) and rotate the disty. Can you ear the motor adjusting itself internaly? On my GS I can ear it. If it does not, maybe that's the problem.
Jump TEN + GND, put the car ON (ignition OFF) and rotate the disty. Can you ear the motor adjusting itself internaly? On my GS I can ear it. If it does not, maybe that's the problem.
K8 running LPG (Liquified Petrol Gas)