Clutch ? from new member

caper587 · Post by **caper587** » June 11th, 2007, 10:13 pm

Hi everyone! I bought a 93' MX-3 with the 1.8 v-6 and 5 speed manual. It was sitting on the side of the road along my way to work so I stopped to look thinking it would be alot cheaper to drive than my Jeep. I paid 800.00. The brakes were sticking and it seems to burn alittle oil, not bad, but the engine sounds perfect! I've driven it for about a week and the clutch is starting to slip bad. I knew it when I bought it but thought I could baby it through the summer. I've read on here about some putting the 2.5 engine and/or trans. from the MX6, probe, ect. in the MX-3 and I like the idea of the higher sped top gear, but money won't allow it right now. Sooooo, will a clutch kit for a 2.5 MX6 fit and would it be a better/stronger replacement than a standard MX-3 clutch? I called a parts store today and they told me a MX-3 1.8 was about 105.00 and the MX6 2.5 was cheaper at 95.00. Also, does everyone pull the engine to replace the clutch or is there enough room to split them in the car? I'd like to do it at home but I'm working long hrs. I suppose labour will cost 3x+. Thanks.

Nd4SpdSe · Post by **Nd4SpdSe** » June 12th, 2007, 12:37 am

The clutch for the 2.5L will fit. Is is in a sence stronger because (stock for stock) it's designed to handle the 165ft-lbs of tq of the 2.5L rather than the 115 of the original K8. Although Probe/Mx-6'ers argue that even a stock OEM clutch is sufficient for a stock KLDE. If you want to do this as a step towards a 2.5L swap, a stage 1 clutch from a reputable clutch manufaturer will usually more than suffice. The 2.5L clutch is supposbly 10mm larger in diameter, so it would have more "meat" to grab with, but some aftermarket manufacturers sell the exact same clutch for both the 1.8 and 2.5. And dont worry about the flywheel, the stock Mx-3 one works just fine, and is a common mod for Probe/Mx-6'ers because it is lighter than their stock, while not too light to affect streetability like a Fidenza may.

For gearing, the Probe has teh same gearing as the Mx-3 (4.38:1), while the 626 and mx-6 have a taller gearset (4.11:1), all are usable in an Mx-3. No one has really tried the 4.11 set in a stock 1.8 Mx-3. Because of the lower power output, it wouldn't possibly properly handle the longer gears and may actually lower your top speed because that the motor will have to work harder. That's something no one has ever (that I know) tried, possibly cause it's not worth the time. Is someone has the 4.11 gearing in their mx-3, it was either swapped during or after a 2.5l motor swap.

BTW, who cares is the engine burns out or even go, just be a good excuse to swap in a 2.5L anyway

caper587 · Post by **caper587** » June 12th, 2007, 7:15 am

Thanks for the quick reply, web sites like this are great for new owners. When I bought it I was only thinking of a cheap little car for running back and forth to work but it's really starting to grow on me. My kids love it. I'm 37 and it's all work-work-work now but when I was younger I had a 280ZX and this is bringing back old memorys.

I'm not worried about the little bit of oil it's burning becouse the engine sounds so good. Sweet even! If it goes some time I'll see about swapping in the 2.5 power train. One of my kids wants it so I think it'll be around for a while. The body and interier are both really good for a car with this much mileage. 233xxx. I almost felt bad giving the guy the 800 he was asking for, didn't even try to beat him down. He gave me over 1000 in reciepts that had been done in the last year including the timing belt, as well as a 300 sony stereo he left in it. What about taking the clutch out? Do I have to pull the engine? Thanks again everyone!

Post by **Custommx3** » June 12th, 2007, 8:47 am

Moved to Transmission

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » June 12th, 2007, 3:54 pm

You can seperate the two in the bay and leave the engine. You have to support the engine with a jack or hoist b/c three of the four mounts are connected to the trans. Basically, jack the car up, remove the drivers wheel and wheel well, unbolt the fuel filter bracket so that it comes loose from the trans, leave the clutch alone, but unbolt it so that it stays in the engine bay, remove the bolts from the front and rear trans mounts, slowly remove the ones from the drivers side mount (making sure the engine does not move much and is well supported), remove the bell housing bolts, then gently pry the trans from the motor. It might get stuck around the wheel well, but you can play with the position of the engine to angle it out. I usually use a hoist with the leveler so that I can tilt the engine and I don't have a jack under the car in my way. Be careful to not let the engine move too much or you will tear the mount. Make sure to get a new throwout bearing and pilot bearing, get the flywheel resurfaced and grease the clutch fork fingers. I usually do a brake fluid and clutch fluid flush with this as well just to freshen it all up. The brakes and clutch share the same fluid resevoir (it is seperated inside the resevoir to keep a brake leak from loosing all the clutch fliud).
Good luck and sounds like a good buy.

caper587 · Post by **caper587** » June 12th, 2007, 9:31 pm

Thanks again guys, the weather is suppost to be good this week end, think I'll give it a go.

DimaK · Post by **DimaK** » June 13th, 2007, 10:22 am

hey man i have a DE clutch, if you want, it looks new to me really, i got with the car whn i bought my mx6

ho bag · Post by **ho bag** » June 14th, 2007, 4:58 pm

http://cgi.ebay.ca/XTR-STAGE-3-RACING-C ... dZViewItem

Thats what im putting in my mx3, But i got the KLZE and i want something that can take abuse.

Post by **Mooneggs** » June 14th, 2007, 5:27 pm

ho bag wrote:http://cgi.ebay.ca/XTR-STAGE-3-RACING-C ... dZViewItem

Thats what im putting in my mx3, But i got the KLZE and i want something that can take abuse.

LOL isn't that a little bit of overkill? what kind of abuse are you planning?!

Caper - welcome to the mx-3 world! the comments above by the other guys have given you everything you need!

ho bag · Post by **ho bag** » June 14th, 2007, 6:57 pm

LOL its for my klze swap... ANd the wife has to drive it from time to time ans she is hard on the clutch!

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » June 15th, 2007, 2:11 am

That clutch is too strong for anything other than a built and boosted ZE or DE. Get a normal clutch that will hold 200-250 ft/lbs and you'll be fine. The ZE only starts with 180+- tq. A good clutch will take racing, but abusing your clutch means you cannot drive...

caper587 · Post by **caper587** » June 15th, 2007, 8:07 am

Hi again everyone, I decided to take the day off work, the weather's good and it's calling for a nice weekend so that will give me three days. If that's not enough I should sell my wrenches. lol. Question tho, can I leave the passengers side axel in place and just slide it out of the ta as I take it out to the left or would it be too hard to line it back up at the same time I'm trying to line up the crank? Also, a mechanic I know told me that if I couldn't get the axel nut off that I could unbolt the strut and take it and the axel out as a unit. Any one else tried this? Sounds like an easier way to do it since the strut would be one more thing out of the way. Any thoughts?

ho bag · Post by **ho bag** » June 15th, 2007, 11:19 am

caper587 wrote:Hi again everyone, I decided to take the day off work, the weather's good and it's calling for a nice weekend so that will give me three days. If that's not enough I should sell my wrenches. lol. Question tho, can I leave the passengers side axel in place and just slide it out of the ta as I take it out to the left or would it be too hard to line it back up at the same time I'm trying to line up the crank? Also, a mechanic I know told me that if I couldn't get the axel nut off that I could unbolt the strut and take it and the axel out as a unit. Any one else tried this? Sounds like an easier way to do it since the strut would be one more thing out of the way. Any thoughts?

I had that issue, even with oxy/acct i could not get the axel nut off. I unbolted the lower strut bolts, took the axle boot off and did it that way.

caper587 · Post by **caper587** » June 16th, 2007, 9:43 pm

Well, I chickened out. A mechanic I know, who works for 20/hr. said he'd do it for me, and since I don't have act. torches or air, I'm glad he did it! I had bought a clutch kit the other day, one for a MX6, cause I figured it would be a better replacement and cause I'm cheap and it was 10.00 less.

He started it yesterday afternoon sometime and called this morning to say it was done. Charged me 10 hrs. labour but he said the cross-member bolts were siezed real bad. Thats still only 200.00 and I know he dosen't have a pit or hoist so he was working on his back the whole time. Worked great on the way home except that it was engaging as soon as the clutch pedal started to move. I went on here and looked at the service manual to see how to adjust the pedal, and two min.s later had it where it feels great. This is where I say thanks again for a great site! Anyway, now that that's done, maybe tomorrow I'll take the door skin off and see why the driver's side door lock switch is so loose. Some times when you close the door the lock switch will move over to the lock position. Not a big deal when the window is down but one of these days I'll leave the keys in it and the windows up.

So, so long for now.