Have to replace water pump...

4-Cyl. Technical/Performance Discussions
Post Reply
czwan
Regular Member
Posts: 62
Joined: August 15th, 2003, 2:01 am
Location: USA

Have to replace water pump...

Post by czwan »

Hey, I'm new here,

Driving an aging '93 MX-3. It's leaking coolant like crazy, and I have to replace the water pump. A friend helped me do it when I first got the car, but I'm a little nervous about the timing belt, etc......although I can't afford a mechanic.

Does anyone have any specific advice on doing this? I've got that Chilton's manual that vaguely tells how to do it, but I just wondered about any of you with any first-hand advice. Things to watch out for, suggestions, etc.

If you do get a chance to reply, you might have to dumb-down your answers for me :)

Wasn't sure if it was definitely a 2 person job. Still hoping I can find a friend with time to help out this weekend.

Thanks a lot!
Top
User avatar
Limegreen mx-3
Regular Member
Posts: 1778
Joined: October 29th, 2002, 2:01 am
Location: San Antonio TX
Contact:
Contact Limegreen mx-3

Post by Limegreen mx-3 »

thats a one man job given u know what ur doing. air tools will help u out a lot. trust me. make sure u get ur timing on rite.
(12.4@118@18psi) 92 MX-3, KIA (BP-DE)Swap, Electromotive TEC II Standalone, 8,200 Rev Limit, Custom Intake/Exhaust Manifold, 1,000cc PTE Injectors, Custom Fuel Rail, Aeromotive FPR, 80MM Holley TB, MSD 8.5MM Wires, NGK V-Power #8, SC6262 Turbo, 3 in. DownPipe, Tial WG/BOV, 600HP PTE FMIC, 2.5IN Intercooler Piping, EQUUS/Autometer KIA G-Series Tran, Extreme ACT Clutch, Built BP in starting process.
Top
User avatar
Yoda
Regular Member
Posts: 853
Joined: January 4th, 2003, 2:01 am
Location: Earth, solar system, Milkyway, etc

Post by Yoda »

Changing the W/P and timing belt on the SOHC is pretty simple . The hardest part of the job is breaking loose the crank pulley bolt and making sure you are aligning the right timing marks on the cam pulley. Yes there is more that one. The first time I ever did the job took about 90min on the side of the road without a manual when the tensioner pulley spring could keep up with the stretch in the timing belt and it jumped about a dozen teeth. I had bought a new belt just never installed it before it happened rather that have the car towed I decided to change the belt right there.

The good thing is that you don't need a lift or engine support. In fact you only have to jack up the right side of the car and remove the wheel and splash shield to get full access to the timing belt and W/P.

The things to really remember is that the crank key should be at the 12 o'clock position, the marks on the cam pulley are at 12 and 3 o'clock and the turn the cranks 2 full turns and all 3 marks should come back into alignment.
Top
Post Reply

Return to “4-Cyl. Technical/Performance”