Failed Lambo door group buy...

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cjthor
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Post by cjthor »

OK took my fender off and cut everything out but a very very small lip and took the limiting screw out of the hinge. This is as straight as I can get the door.
Image
You have to really watch whats goin on to get it this far. I will try and get a better vid and try and show you all what I mean.
Jarid Perry
94 mx3 Turrrbooooo (not even close to stock) 302WHP
71 Chevy C20 (tow rig!!)
77 Jeep CJ5 (no way its stock)
06 MINI Cooper S JCW GP (few goodies) 210WHP
2008 MINI Cooper Clubman S
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Mooneggs
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Post by Mooneggs »

thanks for the pics and the vid... I think I might agree with you on the stronger shocks... it looks really wobbly in the video... :?

How come it won't open 90 degrees??? I thought that is how it is supposed to be. I mean granted it still looks sweet even at 75 but it should be advertised as a 75 degree kit! :roll:
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magiccowinuse
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Post by magiccowinuse »

Jarid, when your kit was shipped did the tracking number ever update? i got the tracking number on the 2nd and its said this since then:

"Item accepted at the Post office"
1994 1.6L White MX-3 - Daily Driver
1995 Red MX-3 -Project
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cjthor
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Post by cjthor »

magiccowinuse wrote:Jarid, when your kit was shipped did the tracking number ever update? i got the tracking number on the 2nd and its said this since then:

"Item accepted at the Post office"
Nope i dont think it did.
Jarid Perry
94 mx3 Turrrbooooo (not even close to stock) 302WHP
71 Chevy C20 (tow rig!!)
77 Jeep CJ5 (no way its stock)
06 MINI Cooper S JCW GP (few goodies) 210WHP
2008 MINI Cooper Clubman S
bgracing
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Post by bgracing »

Hey,

As for the problem with the top shock mount being near the fender, as you can notice in the picture, the bolt needs to be all the way in, and cannot stick out past the mount. I suggest removing the nut on the top shock mount bolt, and replacing it with washers and putting the nut on the back of the arm. We did not experience a problem with it coming near the fender.

Also just wondering if there had been some side stress placed on the shock as you say that it feels like it wants to come down but during your overnight test the kit did not drop even alittle? What was the temperature like when the video was taken, just trying to get an idea why this would be happening as we could set the door to any height and had no problems with it dropping.

Also do you have the pinch point adjusted on the hinge as this will create more of a sturdy feel to the kit, when you are raising it in the video you can see that it can wander back and forth a bit but if you have the pinch point adjusted correctly with the horizontal adjuster screw set ( I believe you took this bolt out, but needs to remain in) then you will eliminate the ability of the arm to wander when going vertical.

As for the height issue looking into that right now, as they should go at the very least 80 degrees vertical. Again I'll check into this.

Thanks,
Kyle Wesley
Xtreme-Doors
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cjthor
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Post by cjthor »

bgracing wrote:Hey,

As for the problem with the top shock mount being near the fender, as you can notice in the picture, the bolt needs to be all the way in, and cannot stick out past the mount. I suggest removing the nut on the top shock mount bolt, and replacing it with washers and putting the nut on the back of the arm. We did not experience a problem with it coming near the fender.

Also just wondering if there had been some side stress placed on the shock as you say that it feels like it wants to come down but during your overnight test the kit did not drop even alittle? What was the temperature like when the video was taken, just trying to get an idea why this would be happening as we could set the door to any height and had no problems with it dropping.

Also do you have the pinch point adjusted on the hinge as this will create more of a sturdy feel to the kit, when you are raising it in the video you can see that it can wander back and forth a bit but if you have the pinch point adjusted correctly with the horizontal adjuster screw set ( I believe you took this bolt out, but needs to remain in) then you will eliminate the ability of the arm to wander when going vertical.

As for the height issue looking into that right now, as they should go at the very least 80 degrees vertical. Again I'll check into this.

Thanks,
Kyle Wesley
Xtreme-Doors
I will put the nut on the back tonight. I did not measure exactly if the door came down a bit during the night. As for side stress...how would that happen? Like dropping it or something? It has been pretty warm here lately...id say the video was taken at 60ish degrees. I hat to take the bolt out of the horizontal adjustment to get it to go up as far as it did. it was like i had to go around something to go that high...i will double check on it tonight. I noticed that even in the videos you did with your fender on you went about as high as i did and no more. I also still need to put my door panel on and see if that changes anything.
Jarid Perry
94 mx3 Turrrbooooo (not even close to stock) 302WHP
71 Chevy C20 (tow rig!!)
77 Jeep CJ5 (no way its stock)
06 MINI Cooper S JCW GP (few goodies) 210WHP
2008 MINI Cooper Clubman S
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cjthor
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Post by cjthor »

So I found out the limiter of the hinge. Its actually the strut. If you watch in this vid...
http://s32.photobucket.com/albums/d31/b ... 0_0177.flv
You can see that the strut is fully extended in this vid and the door is at its highest point.
With the fender on.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbNbw4g2 ... ed&search=
its the same height.. The only time we saw a full 90 degree stroke was here....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3h6DSOm ... ed&search=
which was the first design kit with the shock mounted on top not on the side..
Jarid Perry
94 mx3 Turrrbooooo (not even close to stock) 302WHP
71 Chevy C20 (tow rig!!)
77 Jeep CJ5 (no way its stock)
06 MINI Cooper S JCW GP (few goodies) 210WHP
2008 MINI Cooper Clubman S
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cjthor
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Post by cjthor »

Just put the door panel on and the door doesnt stay up. I notice that if i put the door at the max height it doesnt come down but halfway and it does want to move. With the door panel on it wont stay up at all. I am going to swap struts tomorrow and make sure that its not a defective strut. Magiccowinuse, when you get your hinges let me know what your shock looks like.
Jarid Perry
94 mx3 Turrrbooooo (not even close to stock) 302WHP
71 Chevy C20 (tow rig!!)
77 Jeep CJ5 (no way its stock)
06 MINI Cooper S JCW GP (few goodies) 210WHP
2008 MINI Cooper Clubman S
Spotted
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Post by Spotted »

60ish IS A LITTLE WARM :shock: ?!?! How will that thing handle temps like 85+?!!
:welder:
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magiccowinuse
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Post by magiccowinuse »

cjthor wrote:Magiccowinuse, when you get your hinges let me know what your shock looks like.
Will do. keep us posted on your findings.
1994 1.6L White MX-3 - Daily Driver
1995 Red MX-3 -Project
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cjthor
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Post by cjthor »

magiccowinuse wrote:
cjthor wrote:Magiccowinuse, when you get your hinges let me know what your shock looks like.
Will do. keep us posted on your findings.
My findings so far....
1. This is not a "bolt on" kit.
2. The kit does not go a full 90 degrees with supplied strut.
3. You will have to remove the fender to install.
4. Go to a junkyard and cut a wiring harness out of a door to lengthen yours...its easier than using the "kit" Xtreme sends you. For a wiring kit i recieved a roll of yellow wire and no connectors.
Jarid Perry
94 mx3 Turrrbooooo (not even close to stock) 302WHP
71 Chevy C20 (tow rig!!)
77 Jeep CJ5 (no way its stock)
06 MINI Cooper S JCW GP (few goodies) 210WHP
2008 MINI Cooper Clubman S
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ovendenk
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Post by ovendenk »

kyle,

like we asked before, can you please post a video of the 90 degree with the fender on? also could you put the door panel on? this would really help prove your system works. as of now, we have nothing that shows this does 90 degrees and can hold the weight of the door in road ready condition (ie. fender and door panel on).

so again, could you please post a video with fender and door panel on, showing full horizontal motion, full vertical motion, and shows the shock holding the weight? as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. imagine the value of a video to everyone involved.
kevin (aka The Oven)
93 mx-3 GS KL-ZE with KL31 cams and properly chipped ecu
All mods are on my website: http://ca.geocities.com/ovendenk
MX-3.com Worklog: http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=48462
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cjthor
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Post by cjthor »

ovendenk wrote:kyle,

like we asked before, can you please post a video of the 90 degree with the fender on? also could you put the door panel on? this would really help prove your system works. as of now, we have nothing that shows this does 90 degrees and can hold the weight of the door in road ready condition (ie. fender and door panel on).

so again, could you please post a video with fender and door panel on, showing full horizontal motion, full vertical motion, and shows the shock holding the weight? as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. imagine the value of a video to everyone involved.
This isnt possible. The kit can go up only as much as it shows in the video. As for the shock...thats another story.
Jarid Perry
94 mx3 Turrrbooooo (not even close to stock) 302WHP
71 Chevy C20 (tow rig!!)
77 Jeep CJ5 (no way its stock)
06 MINI Cooper S JCW GP (few goodies) 210WHP
2008 MINI Cooper Clubman S
bgracing
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Post by bgracing »

cjthor wrote:
magiccowinuse wrote:
cjthor wrote:Magiccowinuse, when you get your hinges let me know what your shock looks like.
Will do. keep us posted on your findings.
My findings so far....
1. This is not a "bolt on" kit.
2. The kit does not go a full 90 degrees with supplied strut.
3. You will have to remove the fender to install.
4. Go to a junkyard and cut a wiring harness out of a door to lengthen yours...its easier than using the "kit" Xtreme sends you. For a wiring kit i recieved a roll of yellow wire and no connectors.
Hey,

Firstly you claim that the limiter is the shock as seen in that video posted by us? Well please remember that we stated that, that was a 90 Degree kit, utilizing a non-90 degree shock mounting locations.

1.) Please, PLEASE explain to me how this kit is not a bolt on kit?? We have been working with this kit for quite sometime now, and have installed it on our MX-3 on numerous occassions without any issues. This kit bolts on using the stock bolt locations, and because you may have had some issues installing your kit, does not give you the right to claim that this is not a bolt on application. How is it held on? Which holes does it bolt to? If you answer "Stock Locations" then guess what, its a bolt on. Yes some areas need to be flattened on the frame, there is absolutely no way around this, sure you could put spacers under the frame mounts, but then you lose your horizontal travel which is ABSOLUTELY necessary for these doors to go vertical.

2.) Your shock mounting locations may have been off causing the kit to not travel 90 degrees, this will be checked and reported back on.

3.) Fender removal is absolutely not necessary, while it is highly recommended, it is not necessary. In order to install without removing the fender, you will open the door horizontally, and while someone is holding the door, remove the stock hinges and cut and label the wiring.

4.) OK so I'm going to explain how to extend the wiring. Use the supplied roll, cut the wiring to the length needed, and solder into place. Using wire connectors can cause the wiring to impeed the function of the kit, hence why none were supplied. However for future kits if you would like we can cut all the wiring to length.

I would really appreciate it if you would start coming to me first so I can answer these questions without you coming on here and posting all of this and then having me straighten out the facts. It is amazing how all this comes up on the message board, but when speaking thru MSN you mention NONE and I mean NONE of these things to me. You did also claim that it looked as if it did not come down at all when left open during the night? So tell me what has happened to the shock that would have caused it to stay up all night, but now will not stay up?

As for the temperature, with the temperature rising the shocks pressure will also rise, but not much to cause any difficulties when closing the system, and with colder temps the pressure decreases.

As for side stress when you go to close the kit horizontally, with that nut you had placed under the top mount would cause it to close incorrectly and almost "Kink" the shock tube and break the seal that the shock has. Thus releasing the pressure.

Kyle Wesley
Xtreme-Doors
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magiccowinuse
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Post by magiccowinuse »

bgracing wrote:
Hey,

Firstly you claim that the limiter is the shock as seen in that video posted by us? Well please remember that we stated that, that was a 90 Degree kit, utilizing a non-90 degree shock mounting locations.

1.) Please, PLEASE explain to me how this kit is not a bolt on kit?? We have been working with this kit for quite sometime now, and have installed it on our MX-3 on numerous occassions without any issues. This kit bolts on using the stock bolt locations, and because you may have had some issues installing your kit, does not give you the right to claim that this is not a bolt on application. How is it held on? Which holes does it bolt to? If you answer "Stock Locations" then guess what, its a bolt on. Yes some areas need to be flattened on the frame, there is absolutely no way around this, sure you could put spacers under the frame mounts, but then you lose your horizontal travel which is ABSOLUTELY necessary for these doors to go vertical.

2.) Your shock mounting locations may have been off causing the kit to not travel 90 degrees, this will be checked and reported back on.

3.) Fender removal is absolutely not necessary, while it is highly recommended, it is not necessary. In order to install without removing the fender, you will open the door horizontally, and while someone is holding the door, remove the stock hinges and cut and label the wiring.

4.) OK so I'm going to explain how to extend the wiring. Use the supplied roll, cut the wiring to the length needed, and solder into place. Using wire connectors can cause the wiring to impeed the function of the kit, hence why none were supplied. However for future kits if you would like we can cut all the wiring to length.

I would really appreciate it if you would start coming to me first so I can answer these questions without you coming on here and posting all of this and then having me straighten out the facts. It is amazing how all this comes up on the message board, but when speaking thru MSN you mention NONE and I mean NONE of these things to me. You did also claim that it looked as if it did not come down at all when left open during the night? So tell me what has happened to the shock that would have caused it to stay up all night, but now will not stay up?

As for the temperature, with the temperature rising the shocks pressure will also rise, but not much to cause any difficulties when closing the system, and with colder temps the pressure decreases.

As for side stress when you go to close the kit horizontally, with that nut you had placed under the top mount would cause it to close incorrectly and almost "Kink" the shock tube and break the seal that the shock has. Thus releasing the pressure.

Kyle Wesley
Xtreme-Doors
Once i get mine i will let you know what issues i run into. Could you PM a phone number i can reach you at when i receive it?
1994 1.6L White MX-3 - Daily Driver
1995 Red MX-3 -Project
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