Internal Wastegate

93_4Banger · Post by **93_4Banger** » March 4th, 2007, 11:12 pm

My Internal Wastegate can go upto 10psi im told but how would i adjust it and is it safe to just use it as my boost control method.

Franko · Post by **Franko** » March 5th, 2007, 12:53 am

All you need to ajust boost is a simple boost controller http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TurboSma ... enameZWDVW

Goes in the vacum line between the wastegate and your intake mani or wherever your boost signal comes from. Really simple to use and set.

facko · Post by **facko** » March 5th, 2007, 10:54 am

keep in mind that the boost controller allows u to Add boost only, not decrease. im assuming thats what you want to do with it but...i figured id throw it out there just incase

93_4Banger · Post by **93_4Banger** » March 5th, 2007, 1:34 pm

i want to decrease how would i go about doint that?

facko · Post by **facko** » March 5th, 2007, 3:18 pm

um i think you have get a new wastegate, or a different spring..or something like that for the internal wastegate? iono how correct that part is...or you can either lengthen or shorten the actuator rod ...not sure which one it is, but im pretty sure you want to stay away from messing around w/ that. maybe someone with a little more experience can help him out?

Cy · Post by Cy » March 6th, 2007, 12:02 am

Generally you have to lengthen the rod to get the diaphram already under load..

Shortening the rod again, Generally, makes the diaphram have less travel farther to open the wastegate farther... thus increasing boost (it's a bad way todo it for more then 2-5psi over stock, In most manuals it will tell you the increase/decrease in boost per full-turn of the rod...)

Look at your turbo..
If pumping up the diaphram with a bike pump moves the diaphram out then you want to lengthen the rod.

FYI ... Don't let the pressure get beyond like 12-15psi...otherwise you'll probably burst it...

93_4Banger · Post by **93_4Banger** » March 6th, 2007, 1:24 am

so im going to tighten it for less boost

Franko · Post by **Franko** » March 6th, 2007, 4:12 pm

Why do you want to go lower? 10psi on a super 60 is fine. What are you using for a ecu?

93_4Banger · Post by **93_4Banger** » March 6th, 2007, 10:39 pm

im running a BP10 ECU with stock injectors and it has a 10psi internal wastegate. I dont think itll be safe to keep it a 10psi, i do have a 255lph fuel pump and 450cc injectors but i dont think the bp10 is gunna be able to handle that.

but if you have any suggestions let me know

Franko · Post by **Franko** » March 7th, 2007, 8:38 am

Really, you should have something to properly manage fuel. Do you have a wideband by any chance to see if you are leaning out? I stress you to get one if you do not have one. I see that you have an autometer a/f gauge.. that is absloutely useless all it does is flash and move giving you no real information, trust me.. I used to have one. What you need is a AEM wideband with the gauge or something similar.. They are all over ebay. Monitoring air/fuels is very important in a turbo car, you dont want to lean out and cause some expensive damage. You definately need some kind of management though and when you do eventually get it youll still need a wideband to tune it.

Heres one on ebay...

XxantwawnxX · Post by **XxantwawnxX** » March 7th, 2007, 11:08 am

Ive been meaning to get a wideband, but my narrow band (plus checking plugs) have been doing fine for me. Although i dont know the exact AFP i know im safe and i know im not overlyrich. Wideband will probably the next thing i get..but i dont plan on tuneing for power anytime soon. heh. just spend a bunch of money on other crap.

but he is right...wideband are WAY better than narrow...but narrows are not completly useless...they only give u a readable reading under WOT and even then it can always be off.

Franko · Post by **Franko** » March 7th, 2007, 12:46 pm

The thing with those narrowband ones is that they give you a different reading depending on the temp of the sensor. So as exhaust temp changes your reading changes. Plus the reading gets pinned all the way to rich once it is richer than 14.7:1.. and a turbo car should be from 11-12. Checking plugs and stuff like that is good for seeing if your detonating but if youre lean at 4500 and super rich at 6000 your plugs wont tell you that 4500 is lean. If I had the extra cash Id buy another wideband for my jeep cherokee that I drive in the winter time just to have it.

A wideband is one of the most important things you gotta get for your car.. its no less important than a temp gauge, gas gauge or a tachometer.

93_4Banger · Post by **93_4Banger** » March 7th, 2007, 1:43 pm

alrite im just gunna run the safe 7psi until i get full standalone.