swapping hubs

mazdaguy25mx3 · Post by **mazdaguy25mx3** » January 22nd, 2007, 12:43 pm

Hey guys,
I was woundering if it would be posible if i could swap out the mx3 hubs for the mx6 hubs. and if it is how hard would it be to do so?

like always, your help is always greatful!!

Steeb · Post by **Steeb** » January 22nd, 2007, 2:14 pm

nobody has done it yet so most people will tell u it wont work. they do look very similar imo. maybe with the axle stub and a different ball joint stud diameter it would bolt rite up.

neutral · Post by **neutral** » January 22nd, 2007, 6:18 pm

Dunno the answer but wouldn't this take you from a 4bolt to a 5bolt wheel stud pattern? Or... is that the reason ya wanna try it?

Trevor · Post by **Trevor** » January 22nd, 2007, 6:20 pm

Fro the Front what you need to do is Pop the Hub out of the Wheel Bearing On both the MX-6 and MX-3. Compare the Number of Splines for the outer joint for the axle. The outside Diameter that gets pressed into the MX-3 hub. if this is all the same then all you'll have to do is find a Rotor that is 5 bolt with the same dimensions as the MX-3. If you do get the to match up then see if a MX-6 rear wheel bearing has the same dimensions as the MX-3 one. Then find a brake setup to fit that. If you ask me it's to much work Just to switch to 5 bolt hubs. But that's My 2 Pennies.

atlantamx3 · Post by **atlantamx3** » January 22nd, 2007, 10:16 pm

Vaughn and a few others have explained why this cannot be done.

There is a valid reason besides "no one has done it"

mazdaguy25mx3 · Post by **mazdaguy25mx3** » January 23rd, 2007, 9:15 am

Well i know that the v6 mtx is the same for the mx6 so all i had to do is just get the axles for them, and who i was just woundering because i would like to upgrade to the 5 lug and bigger brakes. Well thanks for your help guys i appriate it

Yoda · Post by **Yoda** » January 23rd, 2007, 10:46 pm

mazdaguy25mx3 wrote:Well i know that the v6 mtx is the same for the mx6 so all i had to do is just get the axles for them, and who i was just woundering because i would like to upgrade to the 5 lug and bigger brakes. Well thanks for your help guys i appriate it

Bigger Brakes??????

Are you talking about the 626/ MX-6 brakes? If so you are mistaken. Actually the front brakes on the 626/ MX-6/ PGT has about 9-10% less pad sweep area on the rotor and the pistons are equal size only the 626 wagons and AWD models sold in other markets have the larger 10.8" rotor and larger calipers. The rear drum brakes on the 626 were originally from the '89-91 323 hatchback. When the MX-3 came a long all the offspring of the 323 including the MX-3 got 2" smaller diameter rear brakes. I have a '90 and the bigger rear brakes created to much stopping power. A skidding tire increasing stopping distances not decreases it. The 626/ MX-6/PGT has the same size disc brakes as the 323GTi, Protege and MX-3 just the pad is long but narrower and has the same pad sweep area.

The largest rotor and caliper that would be a bolt on actually came off a sibling of the MX-3. The late 90's Mazdaspeed Familia RS had 11.2" brakes but the total production was 100 cars and sold in Japan only.

As for the hub as mention in other peoples messages the 626/ MX-6 are not directly swap able. If you are really looking for 5 bolt hubs and looking to do it with parts available in North America. It will require the use of a lathe and maybe some of the front end parts from a Tribute and a larger Mitsubishi sedan

mazdaguy25mx3 · Post by **mazdaguy25mx3** » January 24th, 2007, 1:15 am

Thanks Yoda,
you have been a big help. i think that i will look at something else to do, like ss lines or something like that. thanks again to all that helped out in this forum.

Steeb · Post by **Steeb** » January 24th, 2007, 1:13 pm

probe, 626, mx6 milennia

mx3

probe fronts are slightly more surface area and larger rotors by a little bit. if u could get them to work on your car, it will make a good enough difference that imo would be worth the trouble.

like mr2 turbos, probes, and mx6 v6's have one of the best braking systems from the factory. put it with an upgraded master cylinder, stainless lines and some hp+ pads and the car will stop like no other.

Yoda · Post by **Yoda** » January 24th, 2007, 1:45 pm

To improve your stopping power the first thing to look at is maintaining your braking system. As stupid as this sounds probably about 80-90% percent of the people on this list has some maintenance or adjustment issue with there brakes. The next big issue is suspension and controlling weight transfer. Companies are pushing the big brake idea to much based on "Bigger is better". It's an easy sell for a marketing guy since almost everyone is conditioned to this way of thinking. The problem with bigger is only a band-aid unless you have weight transfer under control. The weird thing about FWD cars and Mazda's especially is you would think this would mean having to install stiffer spring in the front but the opposite is true. On a road track most racers run with front springs 1/2 to 1/3 the rating of the rear springs the trick is stiffer dampening in the front. On my car I have 275lb springs in the front and 500lb in the back but the front struts have much stiffer that dampening of the stock struts. On the other car I have OE 323 springs in the front and over load Escort S/W springs in the back This reduces the weight transfer forward under braking reducing the braking force required and shortening stopping distances. Also raise the suspension height it the front and lower the back by as much as 1.5" dramatically reduces weight transfer over the front wheels and improves handling because the weight distribution over each wheel becomes closer to 50/50. These two things alone are probably good for at least 10-15 feet shorter stops from 100kmh and less heat generated as well.

The aftermarket brake lines are a good first step. Years ago back in the late 90's Steve proved just how much the rubber line balloon out under pressure. Another weak spot is the firewall and pedal box and both these flex under pressure of you depressing the pedal. Years ago I installed the master cylinder and pedal assy brace kit from a 323H/B on MX-3. It looks like I will have to fab a kit up for the ZX2 I just picked up as some of the some issues seem to be there. Something else I just picked up on from the street rod industry is residual pressure valves. These valves maintain a little pressure in the lines but not enough to cause the brakes to drag but enough to keep the pedal from feeling spongy ever time you hit the brakes. This is something you will never see on sport compacts because it is a "hot rod" part.

Steeb · Post by **Steeb** » January 24th, 2007, 11:41 pm

there are several ways to tune suspension. in the asian countries they tune with a front stiff spring setup on fwd where as in the us the racers tend to use a rear stiff setup. i have tried both but the front stiff setup if more flexible and compliant in more driving conditions. while most people could use some better tires before upgrading to better brakes, it is still an upgrade if u can get it to work