Hesitant / Stmbles on quick but not slow acceleration

Tempus · Post by **Tempus** » January 8th, 2007, 4:00 pm

keep working on it guy. You've done a pretty good job of trying to provide info to help diagnose the problem (especially the videos and all)

offhand, my gut says it 'feels' like a timing advance issue or something in that neighborhood, but you're past my level of expertise.. backfiring would indicate unburned fuel making it into the exaust no?
so either spark missing,
weak spark
or spark at wrong time..

don't take the silence as people not caring, I think most of us are just watching because we really don't have much of value to add.

ariesdude · Post by **ariesdude** » January 8th, 2007, 4:57 pm

The common problem with disty is the ignition module - not the coils. Here's an uk link for a repair kit -
http://www.fordprobestore.co.uk/store/p ... f074d0fb7d

I am sure if you search more you can find cheaper ones. The site also has fuel filters, HT leads, O2 sensors etc. Change the distributor cap, rotor, and HT leads first - you will find that it makes some difference. Other regular maintenance will be to replace fuel filter, fuel strainer, o2 sensors. You may notice some boost in power and mileage after replacing o2 sensors (they are rated for 60k-75k miles only). If the engine had been running rich for a while chances are cat is clogged too.

For more about ignition module troubles - http://www.clubprotege.com/wil/howto/hei/index.htm

SpudgunBlunder · Post by **SpudgunBlunder** » January 8th, 2007, 8:50 pm

keep working on it guy. You've done a p ... s and all)

Thanks Tempus. I try to keep it short n sweet and less woffly crap like this.

I think you maybe right about the weak/missing spark as the new plugs really made a difference but not cured it by any means. So I got a 2nd hand (working-hopefully) disty cap+rotor+leads FOR A FORD PROBE/MAZDA 626:

I REALY NEED TO KNOW IF THESE ARE THE SAME PART.
(sorry for shouting but you missed it last time)
otherwise I need to hunt round all the scrappys in like a 20 mile radius if she'll hold up.

Fantastic info there ariesdude. I read something similar on the probe forum. I may give this a go.
Do you get any performance boost or is it more reliable?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have an Automotive Engineering degree but pretend I know about cars

andy · Post by **andy** » January 9th, 2007, 8:03 am

start with the leads first. thats my first quess.
the cap should fit but the rotor may not.
there were two different rotors out there so be aware.

Andy P. 93 GS 1.8T

SpudgunBlunder · Post by **SpudgunBlunder** » January 9th, 2007, 12:04 pm

Cool Andy. Thanks for the info. It's in the post so hopefully I'll find out tomorrow. You probably saved me trying to bash it on with a big hammer.

SpudgunBlunder · Post by **SpudgunBlunder** » January 12th, 2007, 3:31 pm

Finally got my 626 distributor cap and leads which actually turned out to be the whole distributor! Good old eBay

.
The cap from this dissy is totally different to the MX-3. So tried the whole thing and nothing.

So bought a brand new MX-3 cap and it Cured it. I thought. For a second.
The revs on accel are much better but it's missing and there's just no power.

The new cap has a spring loaded graphite contact but the old one does'nt?
Although the 626 cap has a contact that is fixed like my old cap but it's rotor has a spring on whereas my lod rotor does not. So the charge was jumping all the time and loosing power. (I think).

So wtf?
Adjusted timming each way slightly and no difference.
I thought I could here an air leak under the manifold between cylinders 3 and 5. Tried wd-40 as advised but nothing. Will get some lighter fuel tmw to make sure and probably do my lashes and brows while I'm at it.

Not check fuel filter yet.
My girl reminded me that we filled up about boxing day I started to fill with V-power and the pump started stopping like when it's full. Next a woman came out of the garage and put out of order on the v-power pumps. Then foamy water started pissing out from the top of the pump "holster" (where you put the pump nozzle back). I did'nt really get what she said but I think they were ?washing the tanks?

If so could I have been trying to run my car on soapy high octane expensive fuel?

SpudgunBlunder · Post by **SpudgunBlunder** » January 13th, 2007, 1:44 pm

Really would appreciate any help on this guys.

ariesdude · Post by **ariesdude** » January 13th, 2007, 3:19 pm

If you replace disty you have to re-set the timing (with a timing gun) - unless you positioned everything the exact same way as the old disty - even then its a good idea to verify timing. You need to jump TEN->GND before messing with timing - otherwise no matter how much you rotate the disty the timing wont change much. And these procedures are for obd1 vehicles.

For more info look in the online manual
http://www.mx-3.com/95manual/index.cfm

SpudgunBlunder · Post by **SpudgunBlunder** » January 13th, 2007, 7:27 pm

I only replaced the disty CAP. Could the timing still be wrong? (I did take it off and try the 626 disty). But I marked where the original was.

Can I check the ECM by grounding one probe of a multimeter and testing the voltages of each pin (mainly 2F and 2I)?

Could it be the fuel side? When I press the throttle is judders and the revs drop but it's does'nt die nor do the revs increase no matter how long I hold it for.

Thanks for your help ariesdude.
I'm getting fed up with this.
I'm about to put a bullet in either my head or the V6.

SpudgunBlunder · Post by **SpudgunBlunder** » January 14th, 2007, 12:03 pm

Whilst adjusting the disty advance I have discovered that if I RUN the engine with TEN & GND connected the stutter goes away!

I've read that your not supposed to start the engine with these connected but it was a mistake.

As soon as I unconnect them and start the engine again it's back to it's hesitant self.

What is going on?
What would cause this?

ariesdude · Post by **ariesdude** » January 14th, 2007, 12:20 pm

TEN->GND jumping puts the computer in diagnostic mode and in this mode it runs on default settings and ignores readings from some of the sensors like coolant temperature sensor, o2 sensors etc. Does the hesitation occur only when the engine is warm?

SpudgunBlunder · Post by **SpudgunBlunder** » January 14th, 2007, 12:28 pm

No it's worse when it's cold

Which sensor would it be in that case?

SpudgunBlunder · Post by **SpudgunBlunder** » January 14th, 2007, 12:31 pm

Could the engine coolant temp sensor have burnt out? It's been over heating on occasion. Keeps pushing all the water out.

SpudgunBlunder · Post by **SpudgunBlunder** » January 14th, 2007, 12:55 pm

Just tested the coolant and crankshaft sensors. Both OK.

Any Idea how to test the Camshaft sensor without an oscilloscope?

SpudgunBlunder · Post by **SpudgunBlunder** » January 14th, 2007, 1:40 pm

My Right (closest firewall) O2 sensor is reading about 1.2v at 4500rpm.

Does this need replacing? Would the O2 sensor cause this much of an effect?

The Left one is fine. 0.7 at 4500rpm and below 0.4v on decel and higher than 0.5 on accel. (F2-154).

MX-3.com

Hesitant / Stmbles on quick but not slow acceleration

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