Car won't start

V6 Technical/Performance Discussions
hub_n_hun
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Post by hub_n_hun »

It can't be the timing belt because you said that there was no spark and we already verified that there was spark. I think John was right. Tomorrow morning we're going to check the fuel filter (if we can find it)

And the only reason why my fiance was telling me to buy a honda or acura is because he owns a civic and it's a lot easier for him to work on (more space under civic hood).

As for it costing more, it shouldn't because there are more variety of parts for hondas. I think it is costing more for mazda parts. just the filter alone was $50 and most others are ranging from $10-$25.
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kiwi_MX3
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Post by kiwi_MX3 »

Parts cost depends on model / spec and year.
get online and have a hunt around and see what peaple are pricing.

I run a "private" garage and buy parts at trade prices for the simple
reason im buying at least 4k NZ a month.

Right after reading this post from start to finish here is what i would do

Pull all the plugs out. check gapping as they are not gapped to
size out of the box

for a start pull the fuel filter out and replace it. drain the tank right out

remove the fuel in line to the injectors and place it in a catch can
and turn the key on, fuel pump kicks into pressuring the system on
most cars, you need to pump the crap gas out of the lines.

with the plugs removed spray a bit of crc down each cylinder and
turn the motor over ( removes crap )

Ok so far so good, now check you have the firing order is right and
are going the right way on the dizzy and are starting on TDC of number
one cylinder ( nots not silly ive seen a lot of peaple get this wrong )

you can't start anywhere else or the crank angle sensor does not match
the injector firing order

ok hook up the fuel system put gas in the tank
( yup seen cars with don't start cos no gas )

and turn the motor over a few times without the plugs, then shine a
torch done the spark plug holes to see if you have fuel, or can smell it.

give it 5 mins then put all the plugs back in and give it a crank.
don't do it straight away else you can blow a plug right back out.
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hub_n_hun
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Post by hub_n_hun »

Ok, we tried getting to the fuel filter and it's too far in. We don't have a hoist to get under the car to get to it either. After all that, we tried one more time to start the car and it miraculously started (with the help of pushing down the gas pedal down to the floor).

There was a ticking sound coming from the fuel injector area. Anyone have any ideas of this sound?

We went inside for about 5 minutes and came back out to start the car again and it started with no sound and it started smoothly...we thought it was fine until we drove it about 10 minutes and all of a sudden the check engine light comes on so we turn around and head home.

When we got into the drive way we turned the car off and turned it back on again, the ticking sound is back and it doesn't start smoothly. But the light isn't on anymore.

Now does anyone have any ideas what this could be? I still have to replace the fuel filter which hopefully it will be soon. My dad thinks it's the filter in the gas tank.
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kiwi_MX3
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Post by kiwi_MX3 »

there is a filter on the fuel pump in the tank and you get to
it through the back seat.

Ticking HLA's hydrolic lifters assy. they will tick until full of oil,

Injectors tick as well, mine are nosiy ones.
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neutral
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Re: Car won't start

Post by neutral »

hub_n_hun wrote:Last week my car was working fine. Then overnight, I guess, something happened. The next afternoon when I tried to start my car, it wouldn't start. The engine turns over but that's about it.
Before getting too twisted up about a possible fuel prob, remove the lg. black ribbed air intake hose and inspect for any hairline cracks, especially looking 360 degrees in between the ribs. That hose gets a lil brittle w/age and a hairline crack can develop that can flex open when the engine is turning over/starting up. That causes unmetered excess air to be drawn into the intake that the fuel supply is not "seeing." = too much air dumping in w/too lean of a fuel mixture to get started. But then the prob is not lean fuel supply, it's oversupply of air intake. If a crack is found, a tight temporary wrap of duct tape will fix it til you replace the hose. I've had this happen to two cars and it always acts like it's a fuel malfunction, but I found a hairline cracked intake hose both times and that was the fix. If no crack is found, then worry about the fuel delivery sys. incl. fuel filter.
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jschrauwen
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Re: Car won't start

Post by jschrauwen »

neutral wrote: lg. black ribbed air intake hose and inspect for any hairline cracks, especially looking 360 degrees in between the ribs.
Excellent point. I hastely flew past that one. But it is a real bugger to actually find those small hairline cracks that get bigger and worse as the engine flexs on old engine mounts.
If finding a crack visually isn't working, while the engine is running, try spraying a fine mist from a butane refill bottle 360 degrees around the entire length of the intake flex tube. If there is a small crack the mist will be sucked in. When that happens you'll notice an obvious increase in engine rpms. This procedure is also good for verifying vaccum line cracks also.


I don't understand why you can't get at the fuel filter. Did you remove the battery first like mentioned? Oh ya, remove the ribbed intake flex tube too and if you really need to, the throttle body as well. That should give you plenty of elbow room. I don't believe it's any easier getting at from the underside since it's mounted more to the top of the tranny than the bottom.
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Jazen
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Post by Jazen »

Hey HubnHun,


I had this EXACT same problem couple weeks ago, which is prolly close to a month now since your problem stated. I did everythin that this topics posts, and no luck. I had a pretty mechanically inclined friend come over and look at it with me, with no result.

We had:
- tried jump starting
- checked all plugs
- checked plugs wires for spark - all fired
- checked air filter, and left open to get more air to engine
- checked timing belt (intact)

I also could smell fuel when trying to start. After not having my car for a few days, I broke down and had it towed to the dealer where i bought it.
FYI - Autoshowplace on steeles and Jane, these guys are real good with customer service and will service anything they sell.

We had a card good for 4 tows, so we didnt even have to pay for that. But I dropped the car off in the morning, and went to work.

I got a call about 1pm from the dealer saying that they started it on the first try, and that it was only flooded. They pleaded that they did not do any service or attempt diagnostics. Just turned the key and she ran. Then they said they went back to it 10 mins later, and she started again.

But there was something fishy going on, I could smell it. When I came to pick the car up that night, I was very happy to have a running car again, but still confused why I had this problem to begin with. Asking questions got me nowhere, obvisouly the salesman didn't know a carburator from manfold, but assured me there was nothing wrong with the starter or engine.

I took it for a test drive, and of course it ran great. The next morning, driving to work, I noticed that the presets on my stereo had been erased,( battery was disconected), and part of the underdash panel was hanging lose with the screw lying on the mud mat.

I couldn't see anything of improtance under the panel, just the dash fan, but non the less, strange.

The only thing i can conceive is that they turned off the fuel pump off and started the engine burning the excess fuel off. Also, maybe having the car parked on an incline,(hood side slopping down) had a role on moving fuel around, I'm not sure, but the car runs great now and I know what to check first if it happens again.

Hope this has helped a bit.
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cooper_9
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Post by cooper_9 »

weird...must be the time of year but I just took my car in today from the same symptoms... The mechanic said it was flooded as well.

I've got a ZE, don't know if you guys do as well?

The mechanic said he thinks that the new Kl-31 ECU I have isnt programmed right and isnt giving enough fuel to the injectors in colder tempteratures. he also said he isnt fluent with foriegn swaps and such and to talk to a friend of his later this week. i'll see what i find out when I get a chance to go.

Anyone have any other ideas with this new info?
Jay Cooper
92 Blue GS
Jazen
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Post by Jazen »

some more insight on this, my friend has suggested that maybe disconnecting the battery fixed my car.

Disconnecting the battery would reset the the ECM, and other controls. Possibly that was where the problem with not getting fuel to the injectors.
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cooper_9
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Post by cooper_9 »

interesting...wish i had seen that post earlier when my car didnt start this afternoon......

i'm changing plugs and wires tomorrow and maybe the cap and rotor if i have enough cash. see wut that does i guess.
Jay Cooper
92 Blue GS
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