Car won't start

[hub_n_hun]

Last week my car was working fine. Then overnight, I guess, something happened. The next afternoon when I tried to start my car, it wouldn't start. The engine turns over but that's about it.

My fiance smells fuel after turning the key. We have replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor and still nothing. At times it seems like it wants to start but then goes dead. We also had the battery tested and the battery is fine.

We think it might be fuel related?
Anyone heard of a fuel pump switch in the trunk of the car? if so, where is it located?

Anyone have any suggestions or ideas to what is wrong and how it can be fixed?

[max kl]

dont throw to many parts at it you ay cause some new problems from bad in box new parts.

have you tested for spark?
compresson?
you smell fuel so you may have injector pluse. but still test it.

really it sounds like your igniter witch is part of the distrubtor.
hei mod time

[max kl]

We think it might be fuel related?
Anyone heard of a fuel pump switch in the trunk of the car? if so, where is it located?
?

no not on a mazda the is a relay by the ecm and the main relay under the hood.
fords have inerta switches mazdas do not.

[jschrauwen]

Although you've provided a good problem description it's beneficial to give some background info and history as well. Is this a new purchase? When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? - one of those little forgotten items that shoud be replaced every so often. Have you fairly recently driven the car to empty or near empty? The reason being is that unless there's never been gas tank maintenance/replacement in the past, an inordinant amount of debris and sediment will accumulate in the gas tank. When the car is forced to draw to the lowest levels in the gas tank that sediment and debris is going to be sent through the fuel line and more than likely clog the fuel filter. If there's an abundance of moisture in the tank there are fuel additives that will dissipate this also.
Confirming spark is as simple as removing one spark plug, sticking it back into the plug wire cap and then laying it sidways on top of the intake manifold. Ensure the outside threaded portion of the spark plug is touching the metal portion of the intake manifold (or any other grounded metal frame part). Have someone turn the engine over and observe for spark jumping across to the electrode. Don't forget to check all fuses and ensure the fuel pump relay is serviceable. Consult the online shop manual for steps and procedure for this. Please post back your progress so that other members may benefit from your findings. We all learn through others. g/l

[hub_n_hun]

thanks for answering my question about the fuel pump switch. My father in law was talking about it and my fiance said it was only fords but he was so sure about it so I thought I'd ask.

Car History: I bought the car from a university student two years ago, November. The guy didnt even know how to open the hood (should have got a hint right there). Since I have bought it I have replaced water pump twice , first time the install was done bad and I have replaced the torque converter and the common brakes and rotors, and tires deal.

Still needs to be done: rear stabilizer links, brakes again, rims are warped, tires again, ball joints, and every fluid system flush there is. And the car not starting problem.

I am getting my dad to check the sparks and take a look at my fuel injectors today so I'll post after that too.

[MX3ak]

I have replaced water pump twice

Wondering why and how could you do such a hard job, twice?!

check the sparks and take a look at my fuel injectors

Wainting to see that too. And take a look at fuel filter, just in case!...

[hub_n_hun]

[quote="MX3ak"][quote] I have replaced water pump twice [/quote]

Wondering why and how could you do such a hard job, twice?!


I didn't do the water pump a local shop did. They obviously did something wrong since I had to take it back a year later to get it fixed again.

My dad couldn't really do much. There is spark, we checked that out but he couldn't find where the fuel filter is. Also, I never mentioned this. When I am trying to start it , a charge battery light is coming on? But, I had the battery checked and it was fine. So that is kinda confusing me. Any thoughts?

[jschrauwen]

Taking the fuel injector rail off to check the fuel injectors really wouldn't be the most pragmatic way to approach this. After the engine turns over a number of times and you quickly pull one of the plugs out you should notice a distinct fuel smell and presence on the plug (wet).
Fuel filter resides on and to the rear of the transmission housing. Look almost directly down from the master cylinder. You'll have to remove the battery to get at it. It's not that difficult of a job at all. No mention yet of the simple suggestions I gave and today was great weather to for it too. Like mentioned previously, verify (not replace);
plug wires,
vaccum lines,
disty cap,
disty cap gasket,
rotor,
fuel pump relay(s)
fuel filter (replace).
Is the original airbox still in use? Is the fuel pressure regulator solenoid serviceable?
Refer to the online shop manual for verification checks and tests. There's also been previous posts by me and others on doing this also. Lets do the simple things first before taking major components off for checking Fuel injector rail).

[hub_n_hun]

[quote="jschrauwen"][color=cyan]Although you've provided a good problem description it's beneficial to give some background info and history as well. Is this a new purchase? When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? - one of those little forgotten items that shoud be replaced every so often. Have you fairly recently driven the car to empty or near empty? The reason being is that unless there's never been gas tank maintenance/replacement in the past, an inordinant amount of debris and sediment will accumulate in the gas tank. When the car is forced to draw to the lowest levels in the gas tank that sediment and debris is going to be sent through the fuel line and more than likely clog the fuel filter. If there's an abundance of moisture in the tank there are fuel additives that will dissipate this also.
Confirming spark is as simple as removing one spark plug, sticking it back into the plug wire cap and then laying it sidways on top of the intake manifold. Ensure the outside threaded portion of the spark plug is touching the metal portion of the intake manifold (or any other grounded metal frame part). Have someone turn the engine over and observe for spark jumping across to the electrode. Don't forget to check all fuses and ensure the fuel pump relay is serviceable. Consult the online shop manual for steps and procedure for this. Please post back your progress so that other members may benefit from your findings. We all learn through others. g/l[/color][/quote]

I have no idea when the last time the fuel filter has been changed. Since I have owned it it hasn't and I doubt the guy that owned it before me did. I will change that tomorrow and see what happens. And yes I actually have recently driven the car to empty but almost always I fill when it drops to half. I have checked all fuses, they are fine and as the online manual, that is pretty hard to understand.

[hub_n_hun]

[quote="jschrauwen"][color=cyan]Taking the fuel injector rail off to check the fuel injectors really wouldn't be the most pragmatic way to approach this. After the engine turns over a number of times and you quickly pull one of the plugs out you should notice a distinct fuel smell and presence on the plug (wet).
Fuel filter resides on and to the rear of the transmission housing. Look almost directly down from the master cylinder. You'll have to remove the battery to get at it. It's not that difficult of a job at all. No mention yet of the simple suggestions I gave and today was great weather to for it too. Like mentioned previously, verify (not replace);
plug wires,
vaccum lines,
disty cap,
disty cap gasket,
rotor,
fuel pump relay(s)
fuel filter (replace).
Is the original airbox still in use? Is the fuel pressure regulator solenoid serviceable?
Refer to the online shop manual for verification checks and tests. There's also been previous posts by me and others on doing this also. Lets do the simple things first before taking major components off for checking Fuel injector rail).[/color][/quote]

I have checked plug wires and they are fine, cap is fine, cap gasket is fine, rotor is fine, all relays and fuses are fine.

I am going to attempt to replace the fuel filter tomorrow depending on weather and time availability, I dont know how to check the vaccum lines. Yes the original airbox is still there and I just recently changed the air filter.

Let me know if I've replied to everything asked.
Thanks for the help.

Another question, how come I cant make a quote work?

[kiwi_MX3]

Quoting john is like quoting Shakspere.

You got to hold your tougne the right way..

<<<<< Kiwi makes tracks before John pucks his tail feathers
<<<<<

[hub_n_hun]

I've given up. I am just going to rent a U-haul car trailer and bring it to a shop. I am thinking it has something to do with the fuel lines since when I am trying to start it and it turns over a couple times the smell of fuel is very strong. The thing is the fuel smell does not smell like the fuel as when you are filling your tank up, it smells different. My fiance is advising me to fix it then sell it and pick up a honda/acura. I think I just might, it will save me tonnes of money in the long run. But I love my mx3. What do you all think? Also, if I were to bring it to a shop how much do you think it would cost to change the fuel filter?

[jschrauwen]

I've given up. I am just going to rent a U-haul car trailer and bring it to a shop. I am thinking it has something to do with the fuel lines since when I am trying to start it and it turns over a couple times the smell of fuel is very strong. The thing is the fuel smell does not smell like the fuel as when you are filling your tank up, it smells different. My fiance is advising me to fix it then sell it and pick up a honda/acura. I think I just might, it will save me tonnes of money in the long run. But I love my mx3. What do you all think? Also, if I were to bring it to a shop how much do you think it would cost to change the fuel filter?

Wait a second ...wait a second!!!!
Don't get ready to bail at the first sign of touble. And don't think that Honda's or Acura's don't have their own share of troubles too. Lets face it, you've purchased a very old car that has probably changed hands a number of times already. And it may appear that the last owner was not so caring with regular maintenance. If you were looking for a problem free car than perhaps a new or newer car that would cost 6 to 10 times more would be your best option. Since you've verified most of everything mentioned with the exception of the fuel filter, it stands to reason that the small cost involved in that would be called for at this point.
We have a fuel filter that God only knows when and if it was ever changed. And now, the fuel level was run extremely low which was probably all it needed to have the fuel system suck in all of that debris / and or moisture from the gas tank. Now your fuel filter is clogged and the fuel pump is still trying to ram fuel through it, hence the strong fuel smell. Remove the battery and get under the intake manifold at the top of the tranny and replace the fuel filter. A $ 40 - $50 fix would be cheaper than a tow or trailer anyway, not to mention it's not really advantageous to try and sell a car in that state it's in now.

[Tunes67]

My fiance is advising me to fix it then sell it and pick up a honda/acura.

Unless you can afford to buy new or can find a used one thats been certified and has all maintenance records upto date. Its not going to save you money in the long run. Honda's & Acura's break down just like any other car. But guess what? Unlike most cars.. Honda's & Acura's cost a LOT more to repair. Parts are at a very high premium and if you have to take it to a shop.. best take a jar of vaseline with you and some rubber gloves. Might even want to ask them to kiss you before they give you the bill

Tunes67

[ModMX3 - (Carmaster2005)]

One thing to check is your timing belt, make sure its not broke. This turned out to be my problem with no start. It would crank get fuel but no spark then one day it dawned on me that if the timing belt breaks you wont turn your disty and you get no spark and a nice code. so check on the side of your motor to inspect your timing belt.