1) intake- u can buy a intake off ebay cheap or make ur own. to make ur own like i did u need to get some 2.5"-3" piping made by exhaust shop or pvc piping will even work-i bought a honda civic intake from crappy tire. bought 2 extra couplers and 6 circular clamps. cut the civic intake by the battery with a coupler on the end of it. remove the coolant overflow bottle. cut the other piece of the intake so it ends right b4 the sub frame. coupler on that piece. then fasten the maf inside the coupler. and filter on the other side of the vaf, and the filter should be siting right over top of that hole that goes down beside the fender. now ull see 3 unused holes on the subframe. screw the overflow bottle into the hole, that the stock air boxes rear screw went in, with the original screw. now the overflow bottle should be between the intake piping and the battery. its secure there. now with that air intake duct on the rad support. remove it cut the end thats throwing air out on a angle towards ur filter, as this will also block some of the hot air from getting by ur filter. now ull notice that if u take off ur drivers front headlight, ur filter is set up perfectly to recieve all the air coming thu that hole, for the track. by using this intake u still get the look of an aftermarket shiney intake.pic below is without the elbow off the throttle body as i havent completed that part yet.
2) exhaust- theres a header available at corksport, or u can use a probe 2.0l header and slightly modify it. high flow cat. a slightly bigger exhaust but not too big id recommend 2-21/4 into a high flow muffler or fart can.
3) miata 1.6l(b6) cams, stock or stg.1,2,3,etc. im pretty sure anything above stg.2 or 3 u need to upgrade ur valvetrain etc. when installing ur cams make sure u put the miatas intake cam, in the place of the mx3s exhaust cam and vice versa.
4) standalone or a piggy back system- u do this so that u can get rid of that stock rev-limiter, in order to take advantage of shift in the powerband to the upper rpms.also has many other advantages and will be needed for boost.
5) turbo- research forced induction forum for more in depth description. or read i think BOOST by corky bell(book is mentioned in the forum if this is incorrect). but with a 323GTX turbo manifold, 1stgen probe mx6 turbo, BOV, wastegate, intercooler and some custom piping,etc. you should be able to run 10-12 psi of boost safely,if not more.
6) engine build-with building the bottom end you have many options, as any of the internals for the b6dohc miata will fit in the mx3s b6. u can with a higher compression set of pistons, balanced crank, and stronger rods.GTX rods are very cost effective and good for forced induction or N/A. there are pistons specifically for boost also or spray ur options are endless.
7) lightweight flywheel/clutch- there are also options for this from stage1-3 clutches, and many miata lightweight flywheels. for more info on this search: miata flywheel/clutcth interchangability. stainless steel clutch lines are also available, that wont expand like the oem rubber lines.
8 ) head work- expensive for the benfits gained N/A, but a worthwhile forced induction mod. valve spring kits are also available along with heads using sodium filled valves(performance loss) but a boost in reliability for force induction-not a worthwhile mod in my opinion.
9) engine grounds- clean off subframe and body where all of these are fastened with a wire brush or SOS pad. you can also replace all the ground wires too. there are also ground wire kits available:corksport.com
10) timing- u cna advance or retard the timing depending on your mods, for more reliability, or performance. you can also purchase adjustable cam gears: corksport.com- for best performance reliability take the car in and have it dyno tuned at a performance shop.
11) plugs and wires- id just upgrade the wires to performance wire set. for plugs u can use the stock plugs or search for the best plugs, as some can hinder ur performance.
12) underdrive crank pulley- also available at corksport.com. this reduces the rotating mass of the engine/crank and slightly underdrives too. a worthwhile mod.
13) motor mounts- there are also stiffer motor mounts available.
14) hood spacers- just some standard spacers to raise the back of the hood allowing for the hot air to be able to circulate out of the engine bay. u can also remove the deadening there too to even more effeciently, remove the hot air.
these mods r in no particular order and just whats on the top of my head, since im bored.
neone see anything incorrect or that should be changed? maybe something that should be added?
- but thanks for all the help with the reply as u have added tons of useful information u 