Hey all,
I have a set of slicks I mounted and have heard that it is reccomended to srew the tire thru the rim. Has anyone had slicks on wheels that weren't screwd on? I dread drilling 50 holes in these wheels. Any comments?
To rim screw or not to rim screw....thats the question
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cjthor
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To rim screw or not to rim screw....thats the question
Jarid Perry
94 mx3 Turrrbooooo (not even close to stock) 302WHP
71 Chevy C20 (tow rig!!)
77 Jeep CJ5 (no way its stock)
06 MINI Cooper S JCW GP (few goodies) 210WHP
2008 MINI Cooper Clubman S
94 mx3 Turrrbooooo (not even close to stock) 302WHP
71 Chevy C20 (tow rig!!)
77 Jeep CJ5 (no way its stock)
06 MINI Cooper S JCW GP (few goodies) 210WHP
2008 MINI Cooper Clubman S
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PATDIESEL
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Depends on power and drip that you can make. If you have a mech. LSD and and gobbs of power then it might be worthwhile. If you have a open diff then I'd leave it alone until you get a Quaife or built clutch type diff. Before I messed with all that I'd make some changes to help with wheel hop.
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
You could always buy one of those do-it-yourself beadlock kits. I read about em in a 4x4 magazine, and I remember it being cheap but still looking good. I can take a look and try to find more info on it.
1993 1.6L SOHC. Mazdaspeed mounts, BP09 ECU, BP VAF, Fidanza miata flywheel, exedy miata pressure plate, centerforce mx3 disc, tokico struts, B&G lowering springs, and some sh***y motomaster tires.