let's band together and make a REAL BP swap guide (no BS)!
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w00t! I got the new engine in my car earlier today.... it fits perfectly, just as it should. Only one major annoyance that I really have to point out:
When you install your new throwout bearing with your clutch, make SURE that your clutch fork is seated properly. A short guide to installing the bearing follows:
1. Pull the clutch fork away from the transmission slightly, to give room to install the throwout bearing.
2. push the clutch fork in, making sure to clip the little spring clip thing on the top of the little nub there, and sliding it over the little hooks on the bearing.
3. That should lock it in place. Don't knock the transmission too hard when installing it, or you might dislodge the clutch fork and bearing. (That's what happened to me.... grrrr.... I had to take the tranny off and fix everything, and then I had a real pain of a time installing the tranny again [couldn't get the input shaft to slide in... had to rotate it a few times])
Alright.... other than that, installing the new engine is really simple.
New Engine Install:
1. Remove the transmission's mount on the top, to give a little more wiggle room.
2. With a friend, slowly drop the engine in.... turning it or whatever to line it up to let the bottom mounts on the transmission slip into their holes on the motor mount member. Bolt those up.
3. Put the upper transmission mount on, screwing on the three bolts on the transmission first, then put the actual chassis bolts in loosely, tightening each slowly, to make sure they all stay on.
4. Connect wires, coolant lines, fuel lines, vacuum lines, throttle cable, etc.
5. (Manual Transmission Only) Install clutch slave cylinder, making sure that the little rod inside plugs into the clutch fork. Install shifter stabilizer bar, bolt it up. Put screw through top of shifter rod, pound down, put nut on and tighten enough to let it still move.
6. (ATX only) Install whatever it was that was on the auto tranny... I forget, so sue me!
7. ummmm, not sure what else you need to do
When you install your new throwout bearing with your clutch, make SURE that your clutch fork is seated properly. A short guide to installing the bearing follows:
1. Pull the clutch fork away from the transmission slightly, to give room to install the throwout bearing.
2. push the clutch fork in, making sure to clip the little spring clip thing on the top of the little nub there, and sliding it over the little hooks on the bearing.
3. That should lock it in place. Don't knock the transmission too hard when installing it, or you might dislodge the clutch fork and bearing. (That's what happened to me.... grrrr.... I had to take the tranny off and fix everything, and then I had a real pain of a time installing the tranny again [couldn't get the input shaft to slide in... had to rotate it a few times])
Alright.... other than that, installing the new engine is really simple.
New Engine Install:
1. Remove the transmission's mount on the top, to give a little more wiggle room.
2. With a friend, slowly drop the engine in.... turning it or whatever to line it up to let the bottom mounts on the transmission slip into their holes on the motor mount member. Bolt those up.
3. Put the upper transmission mount on, screwing on the three bolts on the transmission first, then put the actual chassis bolts in loosely, tightening each slowly, to make sure they all stay on.
4. Connect wires, coolant lines, fuel lines, vacuum lines, throttle cable, etc.
5. (Manual Transmission Only) Install clutch slave cylinder, making sure that the little rod inside plugs into the clutch fork. Install shifter stabilizer bar, bolt it up. Put screw through top of shifter rod, pound down, put nut on and tighten enough to let it still move.
6. (ATX only) Install whatever it was that was on the auto tranny... I forget, so sue me!
7. ummmm, not sure what else you need to do
my cardomain site: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/793483
- papa roached
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to answer that the KL into a GS is easier, no wire swaping but i see your pointatlantamx3 wrote:Just because you didnt have the smarts to take the tranny out WITH your engine, doesnt mean that other dont.
If I remember correctly, you tried to half-a-- it and got screwed because of it.
There are plenty of swap reference guides out there. The BP swap is probably THE EASIEST engine swap to do as long as you have done your homework. How many other engines will bolt RIGHT in, use your STOCK tranny, use your STOCK mounts, use your STOCK Wiring harness (minus two wires) and will have the ECU from the new engine PLUG DIRECTLY in to your STOCK hanress??
I mean, damn. How much more simple can you be? Even handa swap require you to cut/splice abunch of crap and move mounts around and everything.
The BP swap could be done in ONE DAY if you have all of your parts lined up.
My parts list can be found here: (Keep in mind, I swapped the trannies too-- so some stuff will not apply. This requires you to use some COMMON SENSE)
http://www.atlantamx3.com/BPswap/totalspent.JPG
GRO HARLEM has done some darn nice FAQ stuff for this swap as well.
I dont see why you need to make a NEW "How TO" for this swap. Every swap is going to be different and have different snags. Making a list of everything that can go wrong, and eveything that needs to be replaced is kinda pointless. Some motors are in better shape, some arent. What NEEDS to be replced could be EVERY sensor on the motor.
93 MX-3 GS (collecting parts for Eunos Presso conversion), 94 626 Transmission (4.10 gears), KL31 camed KL-ZE, Millenia intake, Millenia TB, SSAutochrome V2 headers, Magnaflow cat, 2 1/4 in pipe, Top Speed Pro 1 muffler, 9lb Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, Corksport SS clutch line, Corksport SS brake lines, Unorthadox UDP, 255 lph fuel pump, HEI mod, ghetto-charger intake, KL36 ECU, SRD transverse crossmember bushings, SRD shifter extention bushing, SRD crossmember, Corksport bronzoil shifter bushings, Brembo Crossdrilled and Slotted rotors, 15 inch Konig Heliums, ZX-2 S/R struts, Eibach lowering springs, OEM front strut bar, Ebay rear strut bar, BFGoodrich G-Force T/A KDWs
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
http://www.cardomain.com/id/blazejeremy
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- ryanlindenberg
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i just thought i should add that everyone is talking about swapping a BP into a SOHC mx-3, NOT the DOHC. just in case someone with a DOHC is reading this thread and thought the wiring would be simple.
CARDOMAIN WITH UPDATED PICS
"There are 2 kinds of pedestrians, the quick and the dead."
"There are 2 kinds of pedestrians, the quick and the dead."
DOHC
mine is a 94 DOHC.
I used the BPT ECU, VAF ad wire harness
Also used BPT Distributor and Ignition coil
I believe I used DOHC starter.
I did use the DOHC pulleys.
BP Throttle Body, tranny and axles and half shaft (joint shaft)
Engine mounts are from both BP and 1.6
I used the BPT ECU, VAF ad wire harness
Also used BPT Distributor and Ignition coil
I believe I used DOHC starter.
I did use the DOHC pulleys.
BP Throttle Body, tranny and axles and half shaft (joint shaft)
Engine mounts are from both BP and 1.6
- mx3hatchcrap
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swap
dude, thanks, this info is gonna save my hide, i
am looking into doing a swap hopefully and or sell the car.
apreciate you guys.
I will let you all know how it goes.. maybe come to your town and own your car on the drag strip. = P
am looking into doing a swap hopefully and or sell the car.
apreciate you guys.
I will let you all know how it goes.. maybe come to your town and own your car on the drag strip. = P
My Beater Mx3 is For SALE!!! >
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My source of Life: Psalm 118:8 (the very center scripture in the bible!)
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My source of Life: Psalm 118:8 (the very center scripture in the bible!)
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- MechaManZero
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It probably will not help you. You don't reallt need experience. You just need to mark the wiring, take the axles out (easier to unhook the half shaft rather than trying to force the axle out of it), unhook your shift cables, coolant lines, power steering lines, a/c lines, and the three motor and tranny mounts and the engine is out. Just be observant and you will be a god lol. Just go to four cylinder fax on mx-3.com and learn how to change a couple of the mounts around.
Çlark
95 Mazda MX3 4 Banger
Currently: H&R Lowering springs, BPT from a GTR, 18.5x6x3.5 same side inlet and outlet intercooler, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch
For BPT Frorums - http://www.aokforums.com/mazdaengines/
95 Mazda MX3 4 Banger
Currently: H&R Lowering springs, BPT from a GTR, 18.5x6x3.5 same side inlet and outlet intercooler, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch
For BPT Frorums - http://www.aokforums.com/mazdaengines/
- MechaManZero
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[quote="ryanlindenberg"]i just thought i should add that everyone is talking about swapping a BP into a SOHC mx-3, NOT the DOHC. just in case someone with a DOHC is reading this thread and thought the wiring would be simple.[/quote]
LOL. Already know trying to get a protege wiring harness and doing a whole cable speed sensor swap
LOL. Already know trying to get a protege wiring harness and doing a whole cable speed sensor swap
Çlark
95 Mazda MX3 4 Banger
Currently: H&R Lowering springs, BPT from a GTR, 18.5x6x3.5 same side inlet and outlet intercooler, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch
For BPT Frorums - http://www.aokforums.com/mazdaengines/
95 Mazda MX3 4 Banger
Currently: H&R Lowering springs, BPT from a GTR, 18.5x6x3.5 same side inlet and outlet intercooler, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch
For BPT Frorums - http://www.aokforums.com/mazdaengines/
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- kudkudniyog
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Nick, Call Maztech in Tampa (813) 874-0937 . Ask them how much is it for a BP swap. That way everything will be done with no hassle, except $.mazdamx3sohc wrote:yea, i found lots of helpful things, some engine sensors i dont even know the names for. im the first one to write in this thing in a LONG time.
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