Drum to Disc Conversion

MAPEXMX3 · Post by **MAPEXMX3** » June 2nd, 2006, 1:04 pm

hum hum...ok....so you guys sayd...a got to change my master cylinder....ok with the cylinder..and about the bosster....shoud a change-it to..???

i just got to take the one a got on my protege gt...look the same.....thank's for the tips guys....

Bochek · Post by **Bochek** » June 2nd, 2006, 10:06 pm

no, i believe that we said you DONT have to change your master cylinder.

Bochek

Steeb · Post by **Steeb** » June 5th, 2006, 4:14 pm

Bochek wrote:no, i believe that we said you DONT have to change your master cylinder.

Bochek

you DO NEED TO CHANGE YOUR MASTER CYLINDER for the pedal to feel better.

technically upgrading the master cylinder will not improve your braking but what it does it firm up the brake pedal. it does this by having a larger piston in the master cylinder that displaces more fluid than the smaller piston in the rs master cylinder. this enables you to get the same amount of braking force with less pedal movement.

changing the master cylinder with rs brakes will also improve pedal feel.

like putting strut tower bars on the suspension does not really improve handling, it does improve feel. same with lightening crank pulley's and flywheels. improving the feel of the car does wonders.

Bochek · Post by **Bochek** » June 5th, 2006, 10:30 pm

Steeb wrote:
Bochek wrote:no, i believe that we said you DONT have to change your master cylinder.

Bochek
you DO NEED TO CHANGE YOUR MASTER CYLINDER for the pedal to feel better.

technically upgrading the master cylinder will not improve your braking but what it does it firm up the brake pedal. it does this by having a larger piston in the master cylinder that displaces more fluid than the smaller piston in the rs master cylinder. this enables you to get the same amount of braking force with less pedal movement.

changing the master cylinder with rs brakes will also improve pedal feel.

like putting strut tower bars on the suspension does not really improve handling, it does improve feel. same with lightening crank pulley's and flywheels. improving the feel of the car does wonders.

im deffently sure that lightened crank pullies and flywheels DO inprove performance and power. less rotating mass = less wasted hp.

but besides that, the only thing the larger m/c will do is give you less of a peddle throw, wich means you actually have less controll over your breaks, less movement to find exactly how hard you want to break (you have to hold your foot in a more persicse spot) and you will have to push harder with the bigger m/c to get the same breaking affect.

Bochek

Steeb · Post by **Steeb** » June 5th, 2006, 11:50 pm

Bochek wrote: im deffently sure that lightened crank pullies and flywheels DO inprove performance and power. less rotating mass = less wasted hp.

but besides that, the only thing the larger m/c will do is give you less of a peddle throw, wich means you actually have less controll over your breaks, less movement to find exactly how hard you want to break (you have to hold your foot in a more persicse spot) and you will have to push harder with the bigger m/c to get the same breaking affect.

Bochek

if you are having issues with pedal control perhaps you should learn to modulate the pedal better. train your foot to be sensitive to how you feel the car reacting. by learning to drive by feeling you wont feel like you have less control over your brakes. the amount of control one has depends on how well you control your foot based on how good or quick you can sense changes in the cars balance and traction.

it is true the pedal is firmer but less pedal movement to get the same braking force. imagine using the rs master cylinder under an extreme conditions as opposed to the gs master cylinder.

btw, stainless steel braided brake lines and clutch line all do the same thing in different ways. do you thing that stainless steel braided brake lines is backwards engineering oem rubber hoses?

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » February 11th, 2007, 5:26 pm

i did the break conversion yrs ago and it has been pretty good, adjusted the ebrake many times and i think i just need to replace the cables. Any idea where to get a non stretched set or how to tighten further. ( i did the pin under the handle and the nuts near the disks)?

I never changed the RS proportioning valve. What difference would a different valve make?

I also still have the stock MC and fear it might be weakening but it could be my imagination or it could be I have to track down a small leak. I have to add fluid every 1000 miles, just a little though.

houls69 · Post by **houls69** » February 19th, 2007, 11:17 am

I am drivin a japanese mazda AZ-3, it still has an EC chassis. I swapped out my rear discs for a set off a european MX-3 1.8 V6. All I changed was the rear hubs, callipers, E-brake cables and brake lines. It was a nightmare of a job trying to get the old hubs off!! Other than that its a very easy swap. I havent noticed any major improvements in braking tho. My handbrake isnt as effective any more. With the old drums I could lock up the back wheels on dry tarmac no problem. Now I cant lock the back wheels unless its on really wet tarmac or gravel. I suppose its a good thing because now I dont do a many handbrake turns!

Cy · Post by Cy » February 19th, 2007, 3:17 pm

houls69 wrote:I am drivin a japanese mazda AZ-3, it still has an EC chassis. I swapped out my rear discs for a set off a european MX-3 1.8 V6. All I changed was the rear hubs, callipers, E-brake cables and brake lines. It was a nightmare of a job trying to get the old hubs off!! Other than that its a very easy swap. I havent noticed any major improvements in braking tho. My handbrake isnt as effective any more. With the old drums I could lock up the back wheels on dry tarmac no problem. Now I cant lock the back wheels unless its on really wet tarmac or gravel. I suppose its a good thing because now I dont do a many handbrake turns!

my original point

houls69 · Post by **houls69** » February 20th, 2007, 10:02 am

[quote="Cy"][quote="houls69"]I am drivin a japanese mazda AZ-3, it still has an EC chassis. I swapped out my rear discs for a set off a european MX-3 1.8 V6. All I changed was the rear hubs, callipers, E-brake cables and brake lines. It was a nightmare of a job trying to get the old hubs off!! Other than that its a very easy swap. I havent noticed any major improvements in braking tho. My handbrake isnt as effective any more. With the old drums I could lock up the back wheels on dry tarmac no problem. Now I cant lock the back wheels unless its on really wet tarmac or gravel. I suppose its a good thing because now I dont do a many handbrake turns![/quote]

my original point[/quote]

yes just reinforcing your point, I never even read up about it, I just went to the junkyard and pulled the bits off in the hope they would fit and they did!!