I made the switch

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GQ084
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I made the switch

Post by GQ084 »

I finally swapped over to the KLDE?? <-97 MX6 2.5 V6
it had "claimed" mileage of 61000. $1100 <--Is that bad?

Thanks to all who answered my hastey posts previously.

As for the swap, I believe the K8 EGR is not used , not sure
K8 ECU and VAF is installed also.
K8 MTX

Im pulling CEL codes, but it runs and when the lite went off it didnt run correctly ( automatically revved to 3000 rpms and stayed) so its my annoying happy lite, like my seatbelt lite :(

I like it alot. According to MSN its 164hp/160tq. Im not to sure about that but the take off is awesome! I debated about the swap because of the cost but then when i had to pay almost $800 for a repair I knew it was time to junk it.

Time for the paint job.

Also who owns the MX3 on Bushwick Ave? (Brooklyn, ny)
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Nd4SpdSe
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Re: I made the switch

Post by Nd4SpdSe »

GQ084 wrote:I finally swapped over to the KLDE?? <-97 MX6 2.5 V6
it had "claimed" mileage of 61000. $1100 <--Is that bad?
If that's just for the motor, you could of gotten a KLZE for about the same price with comprable milleage
GQ084 wrote: As for the swap, I believe the K8 EGR is not used , not sure
A KLDE is setup for use with a EGR. You could bypass it, but your K8 ECU will be looking for it and give you a CEL.
GQ084 wrote: K8 ECU and VAF is installed also.
I don't remember any ECU/VAF combo's on hand for DE's, but you may want to research on that. If anything, you should get a DE ECU/VAF, but I may be wrong.
GQ084 wrote: Im pulling CEL codes, but it runs and when the lite went off it didnt run correctly ( automatically revved to 3000 rpms and stayed) so its my annoying happy lite, like my seatbelt lite
Which CEL codes are you pulling?
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mitmaks
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Post by mitmaks »

couldve got klze for same or cheaper shipped
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RacerX
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Post by RacerX »

The K8 ECU and JE50 MAF are the wrong match to the DE. Which would give you the eradicate idle.
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DoctorP
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Post by DoctorP »

I have the KL-01 ECU and the KL-02 VAF in my car with the DE. My buddy at Mazda tells me that is the correct setup I need. Everything runs great now. Took a little fooling around and alot of reading but it is coming together. Only thing now is it idles up around 1400 RPM which I don't like but can;t figure out yet. I am gonna test the ISC and see if that is working properly or not. When I go into Diagnostic mode the idle comes right down to where it should be. But as soon as you get out of diagnostic mode the idle jumps back up. You are right about takeoff with the DE there is a very noticable difference over the K8. I know alot of guys will say we should have gone with the ZE but sometimes it is just not in the cards. Might be in the future however.


Scott
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PWRD_BY_HKS
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Post by PWRD_BY_HKS »

yeah i dont know mann.... a ze sounds better but i mean it all depends on what you want to do with your can you can DE BOOST......mmmMMM....BOOST
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PATDIESEL
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Post by PATDIESEL »

God I get tired of the DE boost crap. :roll:
It is crap BTW. A ZE will boost just as easily as a DE, you jsut have to pay a bit more attention to the tune of your gas.... Which you should do to make optimal power anyway. Unless oyu are a half-asser.

I agree that the DE was a waste at 1100. My ZE cost 1300 and that was expensive. (average price 3-4 years ago, but you can get a ZE for 800-1000 now) They swap just the same.

However, you are finished and enjoy it and that is all that really matters.

As for the idle, you have to set the TPS and timing just so and it should be fine.
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GQ084
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Post by GQ084 »

PATDIESEL wrote:God I get tired of the DE boost crap. :roll:
It is crap BTW. A ZE will boost just as easily as a DE, you jsut have to pay a bit more attention to the tune of your gas.... Which you should do to make optimal power anyway. Unless oyu are a half-asser.

I agree that the DE was a waste at 1100. My ZE cost 1300 and that was expensive. (average price 3-4 years ago, but you can get a ZE for 800-1000 now) They swap just the same.

However, you are finished and enjoy it and that is all that really matters.

As for the idle, you have to set the TPS and timing just so and it should be fine.
I only quoted u cuz it pretty muched summed up what every1 said. Sorry for the late reply, did the g/f thing this weekend..

Yea my mechanic adjusted it it now idles at just above 1500
Gotta purchase a mx6 accelerator cable, mines is ridiculously long.
Sometimes i hate myself, when i want something done when i want it done, it usually cost me extra. Im content right now :) As for boosting --- thats something for down the road, before i add more power i gotta get some minor things enhanced, like paint job, better brakes, suspension and some new tires.

As for seats what do you guys recommend? Right now the seats provide decent support and the auto-seatbelts are hazardous!! Its always choking me. I was thinking about getting Sparco's 4-point system with the bar thingie in the back, know what im talking bout?
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Post by ninjajim4 »

your idle should be at half that
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Post by jschrauwen »

GQ084 wrote:
PATDIESEL wrote:God I get tired of the DE boost crap. :roll:
It is crap BTW. A ZE will boost just as easily as a DE, you jsut have to pay a bit more attention to the tune of your gas.... Which you should do to make optimal power anyway. Unless oyu are a half-asser.
I agree that the DE was a waste at 1100. My ZE cost 1300 and that was expensive. (average price 3-4 years ago, but you can get a ZE for 800-1000 now) They swap just the same.
However, you are finished and enjoy it and that is all that really matters.
As for the idle, you have to set the TPS and timing just so and it should be fine.
I only quoted u cuz it pretty muched summed up what every1 said. Sorry for the late reply, did the g/f thing this weekend..
Yea my mechanic adjusted it it now idles at just above 1500
Gotta purchase a mx6 accelerator cable, mines is ridiculously long.
Sometimes i hate myself, when i want something done when i want it done, it usually cost me extra. Im content right now :) As for boosting --- thats something for down the road, before i add more power i gotta get some minor things enhanced, like paint job, better brakes, suspension and some new tires.
As for seats what do you guys recommend? Right now the seats provide decent support and the auto-seatbelts are hazardous!! Its always choking me. I was thinking about getting Sparco's 4-point system with the bar thingie in the back, know what im talking bout?
Not to add insult to injury, but if you said you had posted queries wrt a swap and if you gave those $ figures first off you most assuredly would have been promptly directed to a ZE. Pat is correct, the cost of ZE's has come down a bit in the last year or so. It's even possible to pick up a ZE with it's original tranny for about $1,200 cdn, pretty cheap after the exchange. You haven't mentioned what IM or TB you are yusing. You are chasing your tail trying to get a good stable running engine with components that aren't quite matched. As DoctorP has mentioned, if running a DE, then you should run a DE IM, with DE TB and DE VAF and DE ECU. KL01 ECU (there are others that will work here also - from MX6 or Probe GT, KL02 VAF and the corresponding IM and TB also. Leave the throttle cable alone, it's just fine unless it's buggered. Yes it's long but that's OK. It's supposed to loop forward then towards the passenger side before returning back to the TB. Until you get the compatible corresponding parts together you're not going to get a smooth running engine or one that will produce reasonable HP. Speaking of HP, the numbers you quoted are approximate crank and not wheel numbers. Or maybe you knew that already.

DoctorP wrote:I have the KL-01 ECU and the KL-02 VAF in my car with the DE. My buddy at Mazda tells me that is the correct setup I need. Everything runs great now. Took a little fooling around and alot of reading but it is coming together. Only thing now is it idles up around 1400 RPM which I don't like but can;t figure out yet. I am gonna test the ISC and see if that is working properly or not. When I go into Diagnostic mode the idle comes right down to where it should be. But as soon as you get out of diagnostic mode the idle jumps back up. You are right about takeoff with the DE there is a very noticable difference over the K8. I know alot of guys will say we should have gone with the ZE but sometimes it is just not in the cards. Might be in the future however.
Scott
A few similar things as mentioned above Sean. What IM and TB are you using? Your ISC will only affect the cold weather starts. Focus on the TB/TPS adjustments. Check my FAQ above for more on this. The DE is looking to have a 60mm TB and if you only have the 55mm K8 one than again, a bit of missmatching with components. Give us a few details as far as TB, IM and and the like so that we can fill in the gaps and sort your idle like GQ's.

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Post by Macen »

jschrauwen wrote:Leave the throttle cable alone, it's just fine unless it's buggered. Yes it's long but that's OK. It's supposed to loop forward then towards the passenger side before returning back to the TB.
I use the stock throttle cable with my DE. No problem. Not worth wasting money on a shorter one.
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GQ084
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Post by GQ084 »

k not gonna waste money on cable, it just lo-ong.
As for hp yeah thats the msn carnk posted figures, im probably getting like 140's .
Im using the tb from de only thing not de is the vaf and ecu. and clutch.
When i first started swap i wasnt concerned what engine in particular, i was more about what can be shipped the quickest.
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