A liitle help here please

den · Post by **den** » January 14th, 2006, 5:13 pm

I'll be replacing my rotors and pads on my car tomorrow. This will be my first time doing this. Do I need any special tools? Which parts do I have to apply grease on?

*here are the thingsI have.
-set of alloy wrech
-set of screw drivers
-set of socket wrench
-jack and jackstand
-cutter, pliers, long nose
-hammer
-WD 40, break cleaner and High temp mulit purpose grease
IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?

If someone can write up a simple "how to" for me that would be great and will be appreciated. Thanks!

LooseChangeRacing · January 14th, 2006, 5:21 pm

awww

good move, replace them suckers...yeah it really isn't too hard, once you get to it, you'll basically see what your doing, anyway, biggest thing is, if you don't take the caliper the whole way apart, you won't have to bleed and refill the brake fluid, rotors nothing special they pop off they pop on, the pads go inside the caliper, you'll see a black tube coming from the caliper thats where the brake fluid is, try not to lose to much, bleeding your brakes for the first time might require the help of someone else, and trust me you want to make sure your brakes are good, so before you go taking off down the street, test those brakes at 5mph. For a how-to check the chilton's or online or any how to change brake pads....easist repair you got man

den · Post by **den** » January 14th, 2006, 5:33 pm

Thanks LooseChangeRacing! So the tools I already have are all I need to replace the rotors and pads? Do I need to grease anything, if so then which parts are they? I was looking at the online manual and there's a tool called SS. WTH is SS?

LooseChangeRacing · January 14th, 2006, 6:50 pm

SS, lol no idea, oh don't use a metal hammer if you can prevent it, definitly get a rubber mallet if your rotors are a bit stuck. WD40 will be your best friend, and the problem that most people have is they will go squirt squirt, ok now this bolt is instantly free and SNAP there goes the bolt, let WD or anything else like that sit for 5 - 10 minutes each time you COAT the bolt threads. Trust me, when taking off the wheel, the last thing you wanna do is snap a stud lol, b---- to get replaced. Anyway, you should be fine, like i tell everyone when working on a car, take your time and always double check for that last hidden screw lol.

EDITED, your not going to be greasing anything, do not get grease on the rotors..that would be bad...try and not to get even brake fluid on them, thats something that I've always been told to keep perfectly clean lol.

Alittle hint, there is a nice little trap mechanism for your pads when you look at your caliper, little springs and whatnot, not hard to pull apart and whatnot just make sure to MEMORIZE which way the springs go under and over and all that, they need to go back in the exact same order.

Another problem you might run in to is if you can't fit the pads in there for some reason, it's becuase you havn't decompressed the (guys help me here, is it the cylinder) that it's called, you'll see what I mean though, I've had to stick an old pad in there and vice clamp it in, oh it has to be even, you can push one side in and it won't push the other, which can cause stupid problems lol.

If it wasn't so damn cold out I would go out and make you a quick walk-through lol, sorry though rain and wind is bad for cams and ME lol

twoie1 · Post by **twoie1** » January 14th, 2006, 8:34 pm

you can use a "C" clamp with the old pad and a buffer board on the other side to push the plunger back in.

ryanlindenberg · Post by **ryanlindenberg** » January 14th, 2006, 9:08 pm

you can put a little bit of grease on the 2 pins that you pull out of the caliper. just a light coating though. i had to do this when one of my brakes kept squeaking...it was because the pin was pretty rusty though...i sanded it down and put a thin coat of grease on it so the pads could slide easier.

mitmaks · Post by **mitmaks** » January 14th, 2006, 9:13 pm

might as well upgrade to s/s lines

tatsu · Post by **tatsu** » January 14th, 2006, 9:18 pm

One other thing to note - to retract the pistons on the rear calipers, don't try to just push them in. They turn (I.E. "screw") into the caliper body. You'll see that the piston surface has a sort of hourglass-shaped raised part. There is a special tool you can get, but I just used my needle-nosed pliers to grip the narrow part of the hourglass and turned it with them. Hope this helps!

den · Post by **den** » January 14th, 2006, 9:32 pm

Thanks a lot guys! We'll see what happens tomorrow. Its either i get my four wheels to brake or get my bones to break.

I'll just post some more questions if I run into any trouble replacing it. Thanks again!

I really love fixing the car myself. I dont get the same feeling if a mechanic did it for me.